[TurboGT]

Yeah, I think I like the 4”-5” size the best.

According to the spec sheet on your link, those old school landing lights are 4.5” and 100 watts- that’s 8 amps each, I hope to find some LED lights instead.

I'll tell you though, they do a phenomenal job. I'm talking true visibility at 800 to 1000 feet down the road, with long range coverage on the sides of the road as well.

I powered mine with a 30 or 40 amp weather pack relay (don't remember exactly, been a while). It was fused from the battery junction box and triggered off the high beams.

 

[stepside03]

Larry Starts His Toyota Corolla SEMA Build

Here is an imagine of an E210 for some comparison.

I like the look of 5” in the OP

 

[snowrx]

I'm going to compare the output of some bi-LEDs to the 5" 100W H1 Hella FF1000 driving lights I now have on the WRX before I decide whether to hack out 5" holes in the grille. I like the big look, but want the best light. Also putting a big light means some additional weight and a different mount style and will need some structure added behind the bumper cover/grille to keep them solid.

Edit- I tested my FF1000's against a cheap 3" generic BiLed as pictured in post 13, and a NHK IV+ Bi-Led retrofit projector and they both made the Hellas look sad. I guess I'm going LED.

I'm curious what the color temp of the OEM headlights is? Might not want a blue and yellowish front beam assortment.

 

[Yuros]

I personally have no problem cutting into the black grill plastic to do a nice integrated light upgrade. That grill will certainly be a readily available replacement part if you ever wanted to go back to stock.

Here are a few more versions, and a closeup of the grille. 5.75 is a standard headlight size, used on many older cars with 4 headlights.

JW Speaker makes some very high quality lights in many sizes. Not cheap though. Products – J.W. Speaker
.

View attachment 5398

View attachment 5399 View attachment 5400 View attachment 5401

Absolutely. This is how it should have been from the factory. I'll take mine with French yellow tint please.

 

[Tokyotexan]

Just give me some big ass old school Piaa halogen housing ones 😍. I'll figure the rest out!

 

[CaptainBland]

I'm a big fan of lights

 

[underscore]

They're okay I guess.

One thing to note is if you're putting driving lights in where the fog lights are, they aren't going to work correctly if you use the stock wiring because fog lights turn off when the highbeams are turned on.

 

[landyman71]

What about this? With a frame and a decent mounting point you may not have to cut the bumper too much. Photoshop wizards please!

 

[snowrx]

Light pods hold to much ice and snow up front where I don't need the weight.

 

[rallycorolla]

They're fugly, but I adore the look of the body-molded light pods:

 

[Squatting Pigeon]

They're fugly, but I adore the look of the body-molded light pods:

View attachment 5494

Mother of god

 

[TurboGT]

@rallycorolla that thing is the sun with a side of Subaru.

 

[centerpunch]

I’ll obviously wait to get my car and investigate the actual space for mounting extra lights, but I did find these PIAA LED driving lights, about 5” diameter.

They usually show them with fugly black grilles attached, but turns out those snap off easily.
.

Piaa 05572 White 5-3/16-Inches Round LED Driving Light Lamp Kit with Mounting Brackets and Wiring Harness and Relay and Switch, Pack of 2

Buy Piaa 05572 White 5-3/16-Inches Round LED Driving Light Lamp Kit with Mounting Brackets and Wiring Harness and Relay and Switch, Pack of 2 at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

 

[Cptnslo]

I should have time to start working on some CAD tomorrow for these

 

[SpaceFolding]

rallycorolla said:

They're fugly

The duality of man

 

[rallycorolla]

@rallycorolla that thing is the sun with a side of Subaru.

Still not as bright as the lifted trucks I see on the highway at night 😔

The duality of man

I contain multitudes 😌

 

[KranberrySauce]

That looks like where the crash bar sits so you might have problems trying to flush mount them there.

In the OP I think the second size fits that space the best, the gap around the 5" makes it look like an afterthought and so does the 6" overflowing the area. Finding 5.5" lights might be tricky though. But then comparing them to the headlights, which are quite small, even the 5" ones look a little disproportionate.

I plan on getting this front crash bar sometime in the future, it’s made by tbperformance. It should help with room and probably can add mounting points if you know how to weld or your friend does.

 

[snowrx]

So there's more depth than you'd think for lights, but the crossbar and pad between/below the lights will limit how low they can sit. The metal bar does not extend to the center of the opening, so if you want to chassis mount your lights you'll need to fab a cantilevered bracket.

If you want to mount to the bumper cover, there's not much structure there, and it's flexi, so lighter lights will be better if you don't want bouncy lights. This shot shows the bumper cover mounting flange with the grille opening behind it. You'll want a disconnect for the light harness to facilitate future bumper removal.

My mounts are two pieces of thickish stainless, one half mounts to the light, which installs from the front, and the other attaches from the rear and reaches over to catch one of the brake duct screws to stiffen things up a bit with a fourth screw. The tube behind it was used as a straightedge, really useful to keep the drive lights oriented straight ahead as you fab the brackets. (Fog lights it wouldn't matter, they just spray the foreground with light anyway)

I went with some Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro lights, they seem to be popular with the truck/rally folks and a decent balance of pattern, brightness and size, but more than I wanted to $pend. I think the octagonal bezel suits the GRC grille better than the OE squinty round ones. They draw about 8 amps for the pair, although they come in a variety of power levels and bezel shapes. I do wonder if I will miss the added low beam light that a Bi-LED would offer.

(Edit- After putting a set of 3" BiLED lights on my Tacoma, I think they would have been great for this application, and cheaper as well, but the mount fab would have been more work)

 

[CrazyAirborne]

So there's more depth than you'd think for lights, but the crossbar and pad between/below the lights will limit how low they can sit. the metal bar does not extend to the center of the opening, so if you want to chassis mount your lights you'll need to fab a cantilevered bracket.


If you want to mount to the bumper cover, there's not much structure there, and it's flexi, so lighter lights will be better if you don't want bouncy lights. You'll also want a disconnect for the light harness to facilitate future bumper removal.


My mounts are two piece, one half mounts to the light, which installs from the front, and the other attaches from the rear and reaches over to catch one of the brake duct screws to stiffen things up a bit with a fourth screw. Tube behind it is used as a straightedge, really useful to keep the drive lights oriented straight ahead as you fab the brackets. (Fog lights it wouldn't matter, they just spray the foreground with light anyway)



I went with some Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro lights, they seem to be popular with the truck/rally folks and a decent balance of pattern, brightness and size, but more than I wanted to spend. I think the octagonal bezel suits the GRC grille better than the OE squinty round ones. They draw about 8 amps for the pair, although they come in a variety of power levels and bezel shapes.

Dang you might be the first to have modded the stock fogs! Looks great, love my DD S3s on my Taco, do you have more pics?! Did the lights fit through the hole without modifying the bumper cover at all?? Cant tell if you had to trim a little or not.

 

[PhoenixM3]

View attachment 8315

I plan on getting this front crash bar sometime in the future, it’s made by tbperformance. It should help with room and probably can add mounting points if you know how to weld or your friend does.

This allows for a better IC too.