Speaking of stagger, you could stagger your diameters 0.7% smaller in the rear and more or less disable the torque split function. Your clutch pack would run nice and cool.
It would seem even putting a worn set on the rear might get you there?

 

only problem there is the computer that controls everything expects the overdriven wheels, if it doesn't see a predictable speed difference between the front and rear, it probably does a little freakiness, but that's just me suspecting how it operates, someone could test and know for sure.

 

Let me restate my thinking on wheels... I just hate that the factory had to use a spacer. I wish they just had the rear hub set better to compensate for those 10cm versus using a spacer. then I think I wouldnt complain about it. but yes, not a mustang. thankfully!

 

Here's something a bit silly, but just realized. Why tf is the 'DK. Owner's Portfolio' friggin' Optional Equipment?! Seriously Toyota?!?? You honestly couldn't give ALL GRC owners a portfolio to hold manuals like literally EVERY OTHER CAR I EVER OWNED?????

I'm sending the $16 invoice from buying myself one to Toyota HQ for a refund.

 

Here's something a bit silly, but just realized. Why tf is the 'DK. Owner's Portfolio' friggin' Optional Equipment?! Seriously Toyota?!?? You honestly couldn't give ALL GRC owners a portfolio to hold manuals like literally EVERY OTHER CAR I EVER OWNED?????

I'm sending the $10 invoice to Toyota HQ for a refund.

Oh shit I never really snapped to this until you just mentioned it! Idk why my brain didn’t put 2 and 2 together to where it’s simply a portfolio to hold your owners manuals

 

Like this.

 

At least a genuine one is apparently only 16 bucks

Amazon.com: Toyota Genuine Owner's Manual Portfolio. Manuals Not Included. : Automotive

Buy Toyota Genuine Owner's Manual Portfolio. Manuals Not Included.: Software - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

Yeah, it's not really a deal-breaker. My car didn't come with one, but my salesman gave me one. I think I have them for all three vehicles. I used to find them all the time in the trunks of lease returns, never even used.

 

This can apply to both the GZEA14 and E210. Why is there no alternative way of starting the car if the keyfob battery dies? There is no hole to stick the keyfob in if its battery dies. The owner’s manual for my Corolla XSE Hatch even mentions to call a Toyota dealership if the car can’t read the keyfob. You either have to run to the store on foot to get a pack of those tiny circular lithium batteries or lose a few hours of your day having the car towed to the dealer and have it inspected just for a tech to tell you that the keyfob battery has died.

 

omg you sure seem to worry a lot, maybe keep reading the manual.....

It's two pages before that page for your hatchback.
.

.
.
Here's the page number for the GR.

 

I haven't taken the time to look in the GR owner's manual, but EVERY OTHER smart key Toyota tells you when the fob battery is dead to hold the smart key directly up to the start button with the Toyota emblem facing the button, and push the button.

 

Living in a rural area, the white roads displayed on the light grey Toyota map screen does not do my eyes any favors!

 

I find that to be the case on most maps like Google Maps, Garmin, etc. That is more a trait of Google Maps I think since it uses ACP and AA.

 

Not the fault of the car itself, but I found that I used to underestimate the number of traffic lights and stop signs on my daily routes to the gym. Plus I realized much more drivers daydreaming and phantom braking in the road after switching to the manual GRC from an automatic econobox. In general I can hardly feel the joy in daytime drive around the town, especially when compared with a midnight freeway cruise with zero traffic around.

 

Not really sure why power and power delivery is a complaint? Is the car set in sport? I keep my car in eco at all times. It's noticably sluggish and even runs less boost. But still fine. More then fine actually. I have no problems passing or merging into traffic.

1. Interior is bland. Although I'm use to it coming from Subarus. I think they all should have red stitching to make even the base feel special. My buddy just got a Corolla Hybrid SE. I think his interior is nicer. Theres vinyl on the door cards.
2. Fuel tank is small. I could go a full work week before needing to refuel.
3. Not the best mpg for a 3cyl.

 

Not really sure why power and power delivery is a complaint? Is the car set in sport? I keep my car in eco at all times. It's noticably sluggish and even runs less boost. But still fine.

Why in the world would you or anyone else for that matter, buy yourself a performance hot hatch, one that is quite expensive, one that dealers are charging insane adm's,
one that from most video reviews "begs to be driven hard, urges the driver to push it more, and you keep it in "ECO mode" at all times.
Makes absolutely no sense to me.
In my opinion, you would have been better off buying the standard Corolla Hatch, saving a whole bunch of money, and letting a true enthusiast buy your GRC.
I mean if you're looking for high fuel economy the Prius would have been the best option for you.

 

My wife daily drives a 2020 Corolla xse hatchback 6sp and I want to say that I hope they put led lights behind the overhead light switches so I can ficking see which of the 4 or 5 buttons up there I want to push!
Fuel tank is small with good mpg I can only imagine it'll be terrible with grc fuel mileage.
And omg the gd seatbelt alarm...my wife must be deaf and she obviously is unsafe because she never wears the seatbelt until I'm pulling my hair out to shut the damn alarm up when we drive the Corolla.


Rant over....

 

One thing I don't like about it is that it didn't release sooner. But then I wasn't ready til now anyway.

 

Well I’ve put a bit over 400 miles and had it for three weeks now. Few more gripes with it:

• Piano black always showing dust, All. The. Time.
• Pre collision is too sensitive and keeps thinking I’m going to hit the car in front of me once I start rolling as a light turns green
• I’d sacrifice the volume knob for a larger screen. The current one just looks like you optioned the lower one.
• And this one is pretty niche, but the proximity entry takes 1-2 seconds too long to react. When I grab my RAV4s door handle, so long as I’m not sprinting, I can have a nice clean motion of: place hand, pull door handle, door opens. On the GRC it’s: place hand, wait a second, then pull door handle, door opens.
  
  Again all pretty niche / minor things but those are my main gripes, would love to do the wing and hood down the line to complete the aggressive look.

 

And this one is pretty niche, but the proximity entry takes 1-2 seconds too long to react. When I grab my RAV4s door handle, so long as I’m not sprinting, I can have a nice clean motion of: place hand, pull door handle, door opens. On the GRC it’s: place hand, wait a second, then pull door handle, door opens.

I agree completely, and noticed the exact same thing as compared to my wife's 2020 RAV. One thing I have noticed though, I have a tendency to hook the handle with one finger and pull it. I have found that if I grab the GRC handle with my whole hand instead of just one finger, it does seem to unlock more quickly.

 

Yeah, already did that awhile ago. A full hand grip seems to work much better than a one finger grip on the GRC.

 

Okay, took delivery today, where do I start.
The stock stereo sounds horrible, like an old am radio, zero base even with the base turned way up.
However the exhaust sounds quite good.
The hood is very light, so in order to close it I have to hold it quite high in order for the latch to catch, and it really slams down hard, hopefully it won't bend in the process.
Seats are surprisingly comfortable, much better than in my VN.

 

1. Rest hood on latch hook.
2. Press down on hood to engage latch

 

Drop it from 1/3 of the way open. It will latch just fine.

 

I should also specify that you should never hold it by one front corner and drop it. Either hold it evenly by both front corners, or right in the middle where the latch is. Middle is better, since the hood can't be oddly flexed when you drop it.

 

My solution was to adjust the fader, then raise the volume. Then adjust the fader, then raise the volume. Eventually you get to a point where it's pretty acceptable, but there is definitely a sweet spot for the fader. Adding a subwoofer makes a huge difference as well since the car sorely lacks bass.

 

When y'all say the rear speakers don't do much are you meaning tone wise? My rears are plenty loud. They just sound more like a mid, not very good sounding. Volume around 25-30.

 

I think what folks mean is that the sound stage in the car is very forward, like music was being played from the windshield. I certainly can't hear the back speakers at all unless I tweak the balance. And then it just sounds muddy to me.

 

Spacing between the gas and brake pedal is terrible for a car that's supposed to be geared toward spicy driving.

 

It may be cheesy but the pedals can bent to reduce the gaps. I'm sure EVERYONE will have a negative response to this. Thankfully our gas pedal arm is metal and not composite like most new cars. I'd suggest removing the pedals and possibly using a vice to prevent damage.

 

Honestly, mine shuts so easily and consistently that I'm surprised some are having a problem. Perhaps the ones that don't shut well have a body alignment issue? I can drop mine from the center at a height of about 1 ft, and it still seems like that's more than necessary.

 

I forgot how much I hate a small gas tank, thing thing is tiny.

 

I went from filling up every other week with my old car to filling up every week and sometimes mid-week if I take a trip out of town. The car says I'm getting 30mpg average, but the tank is so tiny that it doesn't matter.

 

Think I'd rather bubba my pedals

 

The gas tank is a new minor complaint ... or maybe just realization for me. Wow it's tiny lol, even getting 26mpg average it runs down SO fast. I feel like I'm on a motorcycle again.

I tried some heel/toe today and that's impossible, the pedals are crazy far away. I don't care though and won't be trying to fix it, I like the IMT, it works darn near flawlessly.

 

Everybody talks about the hood but am I the only one who thinks that the hatch is the real PITA to close? It dampens the drop and wouldn't latch unless I slam it down like a angry 3-year-old who doesn't get enough attention. Having to do this over and over in the parking lot is very embarrassing.

 

You're preaching to the choir my friend, I already mentioned that I hate having to drop it so high and hard in order for it to latch.
I like that it's lightweight and aluminum, just difficult to close without slamming it down.