I’m working on this right now…had to
ask the dealer for rear mounting HW then, long after leaving the dealership, I realized the prexisting holes are for a wider Japanese plate and have nothing to do with the 2 screws I was provided. I’m surprised how little Engineering and/or Finishing effort goes into rear license plate solutions for customers.
Given how flimsy the matte black plastic rear valence against which the plate will sit…is, my main concern is how much the plate will rattle with the resonance of the exhaust system. Therefore, I have my first ever silicone plate frame inbound from
AMZN to help mitigate rattling when the plate is attached at the top only, via 2 screws thru the dimples. Runner up idea was to add circular rubberized furniture pads to the bottom 2 corners of the plate when securing the top with screws. I concluded a full encapsulation of the plate with silicone would produce the least vibration & noise when mounted

 

I was also worried about screwing into the thin plastic panel, but it actually has cylindrical posts on the inside, centered behind the dimples.

You're actually not supposed to drill through the dimples, just use the screws they provide and they will thread securely into the posts hidden on the back side of the panel. (I did drill a smaller pilot hole anyway.)

Bottom line, the rear license plate mounting is more secure than it looks.

 

I was also worried about screwing into the thin plastic panel, but it actually has cylindrical posts on the inside, centered behind the dimples.

You're actually not supposed to drill through the dimples, just use the screws they provide and they will thread securely into the posts hidden on the back side of the panel. (I did drill a smaller pilot hole anyway.)

Bottom line, the rear license plate mounting is more secure than it looks.

Good point centerpunch—no drilling necessary but rather self-tapping screws that should grab onto the additional material behind the dimples up top.
Appreciate the vote of confidence!

Note1: this extra material does not exist behind where the bottom screws would mount

Note2: I was provided just a pair of screws after the salesman emerged from the building following a 10 minute search for HW. With no dimples for the bottom license plate holes, it appears just 2 screws up top are indeed the baseline or intended Toyota solution

 

I always use all four holes to mount my plates after having a few plates that would flap and make noise at certain speeds.

I drilled out the holes up top and drilled through the very thin material at the bottom and used 4 1/4" aluminum bolts with washers on the back side and nylon lock nuts.

No flapping around and secure enough to satisfy me!

 

Yea at the dealer, at the time of pick up, the salesman legit took a DEWALT drill and drilled two holes into my rear bumper in order to mount my plate. Now as terrifying as that sounds, it didn't affect anything, and I haven't even looked at it since. And you only notice it when the plate is off, which is never.

 

it's interesting the GRC has provisions for both US and overseas plates. i think most cars have market specific bumpers for the plates. might be a low volume production decision. having 1 bumper SKU is easier than multiple ones.

 

I don't think this is a GRC specific issue with Toyota. I saw a new GR86 at church that didn't have a rear plate or any way to mount one on it. The paper / temp tag was on the front of the car.

 

This is a serious pet peeve of mine. I've purchased a lot of new cars and so many don't have any provision for rear plate mounting. I bought a new 911 and step one is to drill a hole in your bumper! I do not understand why manufacturers don't install simple screw mounts. Domestic US brands seem to do better than the imports (Asian or Euro).

 

I ordered some adapters off EBay for JDM plate to USDM conversion. They arrived. There is no JDM bracket behind the bumper to make the conversion however. Has anyone figured out a way to mount the rear plate without screwing into the cylindrical posts? There may be a way to mount a JDM bracket but you’d have to remove the bumper to do it and I don’t think it’s worth the hassle.

 

Does the spacing of these holes match the JDM spacing on the bracket? If you you just need a couple nut clips. I'm not sure what the proper name for them is but Toyota uses them to hold the plates on a bunch of vehicles.

 

My solution to a NO drill rear plate mounting
2x 90179-06127 (Nut. Retainer.)
1x JDM to USDM Bracket

 

Same here but I used some $8 ebay jdm adaptors. No drilling needed and dirt cheap. I used the same on the front but still working on a good way to attach the top of the plate bracket to the bumper. It stays pretty good with nothing but I think some double sided trim tape will do just fine.

 

I used this:

Penguin Garage No Drill GR Corolla Rear License Plate Adapter

Penguin Garage No Drill GR Corolla Rear License Plate Adapter JDM to USDM plate. Includes hardware. No additional hardware needed for install. Introductory discounted price until 10/6/2023

www.penguingarage.com

0 drilling.

 

I ordered something similar on Amazon, and realized when i went to mount it, that the rear bumper holes are not threaded. Does this come with nuts for the back of the bolts and how did you get them in there? Did you remove the bumper? The site for it doesn't show much.