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Rear plate drilling

10K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  doktorjak  
I’m working on this right now…had to
ask the dealer for rear mounting HW then, long after leaving the dealership, I realized the prexisting holes are for a wider Japanese plate and have nothing to do with the 2 screws I was provided. I’m surprised how little Engineering and/or Finishing effort goes into rear license plate solutions for customers.
Given how flimsy the matte black plastic rear valence against which the plate will sit…is, my main concern is how much the plate will rattle with the resonance of the exhaust system. Therefore, I have my first ever silicone plate frame inbound from
AMZN to help mitigate rattling when the plate is attached at the top only, via 2 screws thru the dimples. Runner up idea was to add circular rubberized furniture pads to the bottom 2 corners of the plate when securing the top with screws. I concluded a full encapsulation of the plate with silicone would produce the least vibration & noise when mounted
 
I was also worried about screwing into the thin plastic panel, but it actually has cylindrical posts on the inside, centered behind the dimples.

You're actually not supposed to drill through the dimples, just use the screws they provide and they will thread securely into the posts hidden on the back side of the panel. (I did drill a smaller pilot hole anyway.)

Bottom line, the rear license plate mounting is more secure than it looks.
Good point centerpunch—no drilling necessary but rather self-tapping screws that should grab onto the additional material behind the dimples up top.
Appreciate the vote of confidence!

Note1: this extra material does not exist behind where the bottom screws would mount

Note2: I was provided just a pair of screws after the salesman emerged from the building following a 10 minute search for HW. With no dimples for the bottom license plate holes, it appears just 2 screws up top are indeed the baseline or intended Toyota solution