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The reinforced portion is the only part that is exposed and is stronger than the rest of the pinch weld. With a proper jack pad, you won't risk bending the pinch weld. This is where any jack or jack stand should be placed. There is one at each corner. View attachment 21351

As for center jack points, these are the proper jack points:

View attachment 21352
Thanks for the photo with arrow... I believe you are referring to that long piece hanging off the ... longer piece.
I did see those diagrams for the center jack point. When I try to look underneath, there appears to be several of those bolts !! Once I get it lifted, I think I will tie a string to that center point so I can get a better visual of where it is when the car is down. Excited to tackle this (super basic) project!
 
Thanks for the photo with arrow... I believe you are referring to that long piece hanging off the ... longer piece.
I did see those diagrams for the center jack point. When I try to look underneath, there appears to be several of those bolts !! Once I get it lifted, I think I will tie a string to that center point so I can get a better visual of where it is when the car is down. Excited to tackle this (super basic) project!
Godspeed. Just take your time and double check things, and I'm sure you'll be fine.
 
After replacing foglights (IPF yellow) and reviewing the underside over the holiday, I have been thinking about how to best lift the car for my first 1K oil change. I had Rhino ramps at one time but had issues with them slipping out of place during drive-up. I also think a lot of smelly clutch slippage would be required with the GR Corolla. However, that front-center jacking point is REALLY deep from the perimeter of the car. Given my limited room in the front to operate a jack handle, plus a hesitancy to buy a 100+ lb "long reach" jack, I am thinking about a jack system that allows the jack and jackstand to be colocated. One example is the Rennstand, but these are extremely expensive. These are evidently popular with Tesla owners to avoid battery damage. Has anyone had experience with Rennstands or something comparable?
 
Has anyone had experience with Rennstands or something comparable?
I have no experience, but this concept looks interesting. Maybe need to wait until Harbor Freight makes their version lol.


Here's another one that's inexpensive, but I can't really see from the photos how it works.


Edit: found better pics.


 
I bought the aluminum bolt on lifting pucks for the Camaro.
They use a set-screw to hold them on so I replace the set-screw with a standard 6mm bolt and use some lock-tite.
Been using them for years, never had one fall off and no concern when using my jack to lift my cars.
 
I ended up getting the “Jackrod” from Amazon, and it’s great. Adjusts to different heights.

Essentially converts your floorjack into a jackstand, so you can safely work under the car.
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That looks a nifty device. Is that 3 wheels in the air on that last picture?
Of course not- that would be nuts.

I was lifting the right side of the car. I jacked the car at the front rocker lift point, went high enough so both wheels on that side were off the ground, then used the Jackrod to secure the height so I could remove both wheels on that side.
 
After replacing foglights (IPF yellow) and reviewing the underside over the holiday, I have been thinking about how to best lift the car for my first 1K oil change. I had Rhino ramps at one time but had issues with them slipping out of place during drive-up. I also think a lot of smelly clutch slippage would be required with the GR Corolla. However, that front-center jacking point is REALLY deep from the perimeter of the car. Given my limited room in the front to operate a jack handle, plus a hesitancy to buy a 100+ lb "long reach" jack, I am thinking about a jack system that allows the jack and jackstand to be colocated. One example is the Rennstand, but these are extremely expensive. These are evidently popular with Tesla owners to avoid battery damage. Has anyone had experience with Rennstands or something comparable?
For oil changes I love my Race Ramps. I use them on all of my cars as they don't slip and they work for lowered cars. They are also so much faster than jacking it up. I use my lift for work that makes it easier but oil changes are faster and just as easy on the Race Ramps.
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After adding my lip splitter I bought some extenders to lessen the angle for my GRC, they work like a charm.
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For oil changes I love my Race Ramps. I use them on all of my cars as they don't slip and they work for lowered cars. They are also so much faster than jacking it up. I use my lift for work that makes it easier but oil changes are faster and just as easy on the Race Ramps. View attachment 32779

After adding my lip splitter I bought some extenders to lessen the angle for my GRC, they work like a charm.
View attachment 32780
I noticed that you have the quick jacks as well. I bought a set this year, and have used them a couple of times. But I find the name to be a bit of a misnomer. They are really not that quick to set up if you're starting from them completely disassembled and stored. When the extra lifting height is a huge boon, they're awesome. But I would never use them for just an oil change and/or tire rotation. Best way I have found so far, for me, is I have a couple big chunks of 2x10. If I drive the front wheels up onto those, which is easy enough to do, my Harbor Freight low pro floor jack will get to the center lifting point without an issue, even since I added the splitter. I have found that to be quick and easy enough, and I can still get wheels off if I want to. The rear main lifting point is easy to access no matter what. It's the front one that really sucks. I'm going to keep the quickjacks, but I'm not sure I'd actually recommend them to anybody else without a lot of caveats.
 
I noticed that you have the quick jacks as well. I bought a set this year, and have used them a couple of times. But I find the name to be a bit of a misnomer. They are really not that quick to set up if you're starting from them completely disassembled and stored. When the extra lifting height is a huge boon, they're awesome. But I would never use them for just an oil change and/or tire rotation. Best way I have found so far, for me, is I have a couple big chunks of 2x10. If I drive the front wheels up onto those, which is easy enough to do, my Harbor Freight low pro floor jack will get to the center lifting point without an issue, even since I added the splitter. I have found that to be quick and easy enough, and I can still get wheels off if I want to. The rear main lifting point is easy to access no matter what. It's the front one that really sucks. I'm going to keep the quickjacks, but I'm not sure I'd actually recommend them to anybody else without a lot of caveats.
I've used my Quickjack for many things over the years. I installed my turbo kit and complete exhaust on my 2009 Corolla. I also use it when bleeding brakes or any other thing I want all of the wheels off the ground. It also works great for transmission or diff gear oil changes since the car needs to be level. As I've used mine over the years it doesn't take me much to set it up. I leave it on the garage floor as you see and just park my 2009 Corolla over it. I'm with you about the front center jack point as it's so far back it's hard to access.
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I've used my Quickjack for many things over the years. I installed my turbo kit and complete exhaust on my 2009 Corolla. I also use it when bleeding brakes or any other thing I want all of the wheels off the ground. It also works great for transmission or diff gear oil changes since the car needs to be level. As I've used mine over the years it doesn't take me much to set it up. I leave it on the garage floor as you see and just park my 2009 Corolla over it. I'm with you about the front center jack point as it's so far back it's hard to access. View attachment 32807
The setup process isn't horrible, but a little tedious. I also had a slightly disturbing experience with mine which made me bristle at least a little. I was replacing an engine in a Camry at home and figured the extra ground clearance would be a plus. First thing I always do is take the hood off and set it up on the roof of the car. It's out of the way and gives me plenty of light and clearance. The quick jacks worked just dandy. I got it all done in about 9 hours, got the car running, and bolted the hood back on. Went to raise it up again to just check underneath for any leaks, and I couldn't actually raise it up! The simple act of taking the hood off the roof and putting it back where it belongs upset the balance enough to make it nosedive every time I tried to lift it! I suddenly felt pretty lucky that it didn't do that while I was under it! I didn't feel like taking the hood back off, so I grabbed a couple pair of my heaviest dumbbells (60s and 55s) from in the house and put them in the trunk. Problem solved, but still. That could have gotten ugly.
 
The setup process isn't horrible, but a little tedious. I also had a slightly disturbing experience with mine which made me bristle at least a little. I was replacing an engine in a Camry at home and figured the extra ground clearance would be a plus. First thing I always do is take the hood off and set it up on the roof of the car. It's out of the way and gives me plenty of light and clearance. The quick jacks worked just dandy. I got it all done in about 9 hours, got the car running, and bolted the hood back on. Went to raise it up again to just check underneath for any leaks, and I couldn't actually raise it up! The simple act of taking the hood off the roof and putting it back where it belongs upset the balance enough to make it nosedive every time I tried to lift it! I suddenly felt pretty lucky that it didn't do that while I was under it! I didn't feel like taking the hood back off, so I grabbed a couple pair of my heaviest dumbbells (60s and 55s) from in the house and put them in the trunk. Problem solved, but still. That could have gotten ugly.
Try placing the QJ a little more forward on a FWD car. Once it's up though it should be okay since the safety brace will be in place. I've never had a balance issue once it was lifted in any way. That was clever though to add more weight in the trunk.
 
Try placing the QJ a little more forward on a FWD car. Once it's up though it should be okay since the safety brace will be in place. I've never had a balance issue once it was lifted in any way. That was clever though to add more weight in the trunk.
That wasn't an option due to the spread of the lifting points. I've got the TL5000. I do wonder though if turning them in the opposite direction would have helped. Been meaning to call them to ask. I had the wheel end of the quickjacks towards the heavy end of the car. I wonder if reversing that would help. Yeah, I figured if the weight of the hood was enough to upset the balance, a few heavy dumbbells in the back would be enough to offset that. Hoods aren't that heavy.
 
That wasn't an option due to the spread of the lifting points. I've got the TL5000. I do wonder though if turning them in the opposite direction would have helped. Been meaning to call them to ask. I had the wheel end of the quickjacks towards the heavy end of the car. I wonder if reversing that would help. Yeah, I figured if the weight of the hood was enough to upset the balance, a few heavy dumbbells in the back would be enough to offset that. Hoods aren't that heavy.
I've seen it used both ways and I've always wondered if it should be used in a certain direction due to the weight.
 
That wasn't an option due to the spread of the lifting points. I've got the TL5000. I do wonder though if turning them in the opposite direction would have helped. Been meaning to call them to ask. I had the wheel end of the quickjacks towards the heavy end of the car. I wonder if reversing that would help. Yeah, I figured if the weight of the hood was enough to upset the balance, a few heavy dumbbells in the back would be enough to offset that. Hoods aren't that heavy.
I've seen it used both ways and I've always wondered if it should be used in a certain direction due to the weight.
That's... a little scary. Are the factory jack points really that unbalanced or was it an ad hoc temporary solution that made it tippy? If the problem was the QJ, rotating it "backwards" could make the problem worse with the forward touch point on the floor being even farther aft. I imagine it couldn't lift without the whole thing tipping right away.
The way in Jim's photo would appear "correct" with the touch point on the floor is the most forward, and the upper plate touch point is hopefully at a factory jack pad/weld that's designed to lift the car without it tipping onto the nose... Could you imagine the shop disasters if the CG was actually that far forward of the jack points?
 
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