The sub frame mounting points are very solid locations. That's why the sub frame attaches there, or should I say they make it strong there to hold the subframe I would not be afraid to lift by those points.

 

I have lifted the car when i did my first oil change by the subframe mounts you are talking about. Repeated the process on my fathers car when i did his first oil change. No problems that i could tell!

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence guys.

 

I have been using one of these & it is able reach both front & rear lift points

see post #15

Amazon.com

 

I have been using one of these & it is able reach both front & rear lift points

Amazon.com

As a former Amazon delivery guy I’m upset to know that we delivered floor jacks. Lol Not surprised, but upset. 😂😂

 

This is good information to know as I did the complicated way by jacking from the pinch weld (with the pucks) to give me enough height to be able to jack from the front, lol.

 

My other car has very low clearance in the front. To get enough space under the front air dam to fit my HFT long and low jack I built some simple ramps. 3 layers of plywood- so about 1.5” tall. Those raise the car enough so I can reach the center front jacking point with the jack.

 

So just to see if my jackstands would fit so close to the jack with lifting the car from the front subframe corner bolt(red circle in the picture above) I decided to lift it. To my surprise, not only do my jackstands have enough space to get the jack through between the front wheel and jackstand, the body of the GRC is so stiff that lifting from the front here also lifts the rear. Essentially, lift from this point high enough to get jackstands front and rear at whatever side. And repeat on the other side. I will say that clearances are still pretty tight with this method. If you lower your car, you'll probably need to use the 'drive the front wheels on low profile ramp for clearance and jack the car up method' or a Quick Jack.

Also, it's probably a good idea to use something like a hockey puck instead of the flush rubber piece(or nothing) on the jack's saddle. That is, if you care about not bending any metal under there.

Pictured below:

On a side note, the rear suspension has a lot of travel on this car. This would make a great rallycross platform.

 

I just bought the same (I think) jack- low profile long reach- first time to try and lift a car.

Is this photo the best place to lift it up the car and put the stands under? My search shows it does not fit going from the front of the car?
Also, does leaving the jack right there obstruct the space needed to change the oil?

Thanks in advance.

 

A cheap and simple tool!

 

Especially for an all-wheel drive car! It's easy to drive up on them without them trying to run away from you.

 

I also noticed how stiff the frame is. I always lift the rear first, and when lifting the front it will lift the rear further and the opposite side as well. Never had another vehicle do that.

 

I'm a peruser, not an owner at this point. I have a couple suggestions though. I have an AC Hydraulic Jack. They are some of the best low profile jacks you can get. A lot more expensive than a Harbor Frieght though. On my Camaro I have some leave-on lift points that go on the pinch rails. The company also makes them for other cars. If someone is in the San Diego area maybe hit them up: ZL1 Addons. I bet they will use your car for prototyping. I also have thier rock guards (think splash or mud guards). They aren't meant to look like rally flaps, they are meant to keep stone chips away when you have more offset, especially on cars with fender flares, and not be noticeable.

Supra Lift Pad:

Toyota Supra Jack Pads & Lift Pads

The Supra Mk5 relies on factory jack points, utilize our custom lift pads with your lift or floor jacks to lift your car safely and quickly.

zl1addons.com

Camaro Lift Pad for pinch rails:

Camaro 16-24 Stealth Lift Pads

The original bolt-on lift points made in the USA for the 2016-2024 Camaro. Machined from American billet aluminum and designed to be left on the car. The stealth design also incorporates weight savings and a custom design to catch the attention of the mechanic or shop preparing to lift your...

zl1addons.com

Supra Rock Guards:

Supra 19-25 Standard Rock Guards

Our Toyota Supra mk5 Standard Rock Guard offering is built to use the OEM mounting locations for a clean install and appealing design. This product requires no drilling or cutting of your factory vehicle. Product Fits: 2019-2025 Toyota Supra mk5 (Automatics & Manuals) Note: 2022+ Toyota Supra...

zl1addons.com

Here's a picture of my car. The edges have a nice rounded beveled edge, not just cut plastic. You barely notice the front one against the backdrop of the tire:

Lastly they make a thing called a mag puck that is meant to help you jack from the pinch weld also. Maybe they'd make one for the GR Corolla: Camaro 16-23 Premium 3" Jack MagPad™

I hope that helps.

 

After replacing foglights (IPF yellow) and reviewing the underside over the holiday, I have been thinking about how to best lift the car for my first 1K oil change. I had Rhino ramps at one time but had issues with them slipping out of place during drive-up. I also think a lot of smelly clutch slippage would be required with the GR Corolla. However, that front-center jacking point is REALLY deep from the perimeter of the car. Given my limited room in the front to operate a jack handle, plus a hesitancy to buy a 100+ lb "long reach" jack, I am thinking about a jack system that allows the jack and jackstand to be colocated. One example is the Rennstand, but these are extremely expensive. These are evidently popular with Tesla owners to avoid battery damage. Has anyone had experience with Rennstands or something comparable?

 

Has anyone had experience with Rennstands or something comparable?

I have no experience, but this concept looks interesting. Maybe need to wait until Harbor Freight makes their version lol.

Jack Lock®

Unlock the power of secure safety with JACK LOCK®! Upgrade your home or office safety today with our top-notch, reliable security solutions.

www.proeagle.com

Here's another one that's inexpensive, but I can't really see from the photos how it works.

Floor Jack Safety Stops

Our Jack Safety Stops have a dual purpose, keeping your jack locked in place in case of a piston failure or to turn your floor jack into a permanent jack stand when desired. Designed to be used with any 1.5 ton floor jack like the Pittsburgh or Harbor Freight offerings. MADE IN USA This product...

zl1addons.com

Edit: found better pics.

Amazon.com: ZL1 Addons Floor Jack Safety Stop

Amazon.com: ZL1 Addons Floor Jack Safety Stop

www.amazon.com

ZL1 Addons Floor Jack Safety Stops - TechnaKits

ZL1 Addons Jack Safety Stops have a dual purpose, keeping your jack locked in place in case of a piston failure or to turn your floor jack into a jack

bodykitworld.com

 

My craftsman devices just fit with a hockey puck under the pinch welds.

 

	I'll bet it's way cheaper to just buy a few hockey pucks and take a carbide cut off wheel to them to cut a slot in them than it is to buy the dedicated lifting pucks on Amazon or places like that.

 

I bought the aluminum bolt on lifting pucks for the Camaro.
They use a set-screw to hold them on so I replace the set-screw with a standard 6mm bolt and use some lock-tite.
Been using them for years, never had one fall off and no concern when using my jack to lift my cars.

 

I ended up getting the “Jackrod” from Amazon, and it’s great. Adjusts to different heights.

Essentially converts your floorjack into a jackstand, so you can safely work under the car.
.

Amazon.com: AGM Products Jack Rod - Easy to Use Floor Jack Safety Tool. Rated for 3.5 Tons. Squeeze to Extend, Locks Automatically Squeeze to Remove. SUV, Truck, Car Jack NOT Included : Automotive

Buy AGM Products Jack Rod - Easy to Use Floor Jack Safety Tool. Rated for 3.5 Tons. Squeeze to Extend, Locks Automatically Squeeze to Remove. SUV, Truck, Car Jack NOT Included: Clearfloor Lifts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

.

.

 

I ended up getting the “Jackrod” from Amazon

Sounds like something you'd call somebody after they pissed you off. 😁

 

That looks a nifty device. Is that 3 wheels in the air on that last picture?

 

Of course not- that would be nuts.

I was lifting the right side of the car. I jacked the car at the front rocker lift point, went high enough so both wheels on that side were off the ground, then used the Jackrod to secure the height so I could remove both wheels on that side.

 

another recommendation for race ramps.

 

That wasn't an option due to the spread of the lifting points. I've got the TL5000. I do wonder though if turning them in the opposite direction would have helped. Been meaning to call them to ask. I had the wheel end of the quickjacks towards the heavy end of the car. I wonder if reversing that would help. Yeah, I figured if the weight of the hood was enough to upset the balance, a few heavy dumbbells in the back would be enough to offset that. Hoods aren't that heavy.

I've seen it used both ways and I've always wondered if it should be used in a certain direction due to the weight.

That's... a little scary. Are the factory jack points really that unbalanced or was it an ad hoc temporary solution that made it tippy? If the problem was the QJ, rotating it "backwards" could make the problem worse with the forward touch point on the floor being even farther aft. I imagine it couldn't lift without the whole thing tipping right away.
The way in Jim's photo would appear "correct" with the touch point on the floor is the most forward, and the upper plate touch point is hopefully at a factory jack pad/weld that's designed to lift the car without it tipping onto the nose... Could you imagine the shop disasters if the CG was actually that far forward of the jack points?

 

That's... a little scary. Are the factory jack points really that unbalanced or was it an ad hoc temporary solution that made it tippy? If the problem was the QJ, rotating it "backwards" could make the problem worse with the forward touch point on the floor being even farther aft. I imagine it couldn't lift without the whole thing tipping right away.
The way in Jim's photo would appear "correct" with the touch point on the floor is the most forward, and the upper plate touch point is hopefully at a factory jack pad/weld that's designed to lift the car without it tipping onto the nose... Could you imagine the shop disasters if the CG was actually that far forward of the jack points?

The factory lifting points on the pinch welds aren't intended to lift the entire car at once, they are intended to lift one corner of the car so you can change a tire if you have a flat out on the road. I do believe in retrospect that turning them the other way would have probably resolved the issue. You have to remember that they lift in an arc, not straight up and down like a two-post lift. The contact point of the top portion of the frame that raises is offset from the other half of the rail that's in contact with the ground. Therefore, the weight is offset, especially at the beginning of the lift, and becomes less so near full lift. Turning them the other way would have almost certainly resolved it, although tearing them down and setting them back up in the other direction, would have been a lot more work than just putting a few big dumbbells in the trunk like I did to temporarily resolve it. Once it was back up in the air, I put a couple of jack stands under the front control arms just for safety's sake to make sure it wouldn't go anywhere. But next time, I'll definitely set them up in the other direction.