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Exhaust Set Up

Exhaust Set Ups

327K views 1.7K replies 216 participants last post by  DaytonGR  
#1 ·
Of course there is still a lot of R&D to go, probably. But aesthetically, which look do you guys prefer?

P. S. Sorry for my poor editing skills.

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#30 ·
Withe the way the muffler is setup, guaranteed gains for spool, power and lighter weight with an aftermarket setup. Problem will be, to gain it, there's really no room for a muffler. A car running this much boost (25 psi), will gain plenty of power from opening up the exhaust. For every psi into the engine, there is almost double that coming out. Since the valve doesn't open until 3k rpm, iirc, you are losing spool. A down pipe should help, but I don't know the specs of it stock. A 260+ whp car needs a minimum of 2.5" through to be ok performance and 3" for maximum. Running a 3sgte at different power levels, you could gain 20 whp with 3" exhaust because stock bottle necked down to 2" in places. Straighter is better too. Imo, I'll probably do double 3" straight pipes out the back and hopefully get to 400+ whp
 
#33 ·
I'd definitely like to see the entire length of the exhaust for confirmation. However, every single one of these cars I've seen pics of dirty (after drive events, or the Canadian press cars that got driven for longer periods of time, or that guy who signed up who's neighbor has been driving that white one). The exhaust tips are 100% spotless. No soot buildup whatsoever.


EGR is making a comeback, and GPFs are getting installed on vehicles more and more in the US market these days.
 
#41 ·
I just think the 3rd tip is weird, and also wouldn't mind a hitch for hauling a bike.

I'm going to see if it might be possible to add a couple 90 degree bends and relocate the 3rd pipe sideways and tapped into one of the outer tailpipes.
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#42 ·
I just think the 3rd tip is weird, and also wouldn't mind a hitch for hauling a bike.

I'm going to see if it might be possible to add a couple 90 degree bends and relocate the 3rd pipe sideways and tapped into one of the outer tailpipes.
Ha! I think that's doable, but would take some legit welding skill for sure. And it'll be tight.

I thought there was a good amount of room between the valve mechanism and the bumper skin but this picture shows better how tight it all is in there. I sketched in where about I think the unmodified Curt hitch structure will sit when installed. There will barely be room to squeeze in a jog to the side and down if deleting the valve.

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I believe closing the valve is really only about controlling sound, power/torque can't suffer in any way opening it up. Anyhow I'll wait to see what aftermarket 2-tip exhausts pop up before making any modifications. I'll probably get the hitch and fit it up right away to at least confirm that.
 
#46 ·
#47 ·
Like I said earlier, the bends on that center exhaust are terrible.. it has 2 90° bends which will restrict flow. Fujitsibu did the center exhaust piping really well to prevent any extreme bends in the piping. If I center exit, it will be the Fujitsibu exhaust (hopefully they release a titanium version).
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#52 ·
Maybe on the input to the turbine, but not on the outlet side.

Pretty sure the pressure in exhaust systems is very low, probably about 1 or 2 psi, and that's only due to restriction from pipes, cat, and muffler.
 
#54 ·
The pressure in the exhaust pipe is created by the restrictions, and by definition the pressure is different if you are measuring before the restriction or after the restriction.

The turbine restricts the exhaust, creating high pressure, which is what drives the turbine to 100,000-ish rpm.

After the exhaust comes out of the turbine, it has a relatively easy path out, and for example if you insert a pressure gauge in, for example, the O2 sensor port, it will measure only 1 or 2 psi.


 
#55 ·
With these bends in the center exit I now think the most flow efficient and light weight is going to be a single exit drivers (L) side exit.

Doing this would also open up the center for a bike / ski mount set up if that's to your liking.