Toyota GR Corolla Forum - Ownership Discussion banner
41 - 60 of 70 Posts
Unless there’s clear instructions in another thread, I haven’t seen any so i figured I’d do a write up.

1. Take off the corner under-guard pieces directly below the reflectors. They’re held on by 3 push clips and a single flat head threaded clip thing (circled below). The three clips were already pretty stubborn after only 5000 miles. The threaded one was even more annoying. It doesn’t completely thread off so just back it off as much as you can and give it a real hard yank. I busted my knuckle doing it so maybe wear gloves for that part.
Image


2. Remove the reflectors. Super easy. One Philips screw and two tabs. It can’t be a long screwdriver fyi.
Image


3. drill a hole for the wires to go through. I used a 3/16 bit and it was perfect. I just eyeballed the location and it ended up right where it needed to be. Sorry I only got a pic from the back. You can see the hole was basically right on the edge of the molded indentation.
Image


4. I’d strongly recommend running a bead of silicone along the seam. It didn’t seem particularly well sealed and there’s nothing worse than getting moisture in your fresh china lights. Before you install the new lights, I’d also transfer the little pad things from the original reflectors to prevent any vibration. They just slide onto the tabs. Sorry, no pics of this step but it’s pretty self explanatory.

5. Remove the taillights. Full disclosure, a little nerve wracking. They don’t come off easy. The bolt cover panel in the hatch drip rail is super easy. Did it by hand and just popped right off.
Image

As you can see the tabs are mild. The tail light itself was the opposite. Take off the two 10 mm bolts and then you kinda have to pry it out. I’d put one hand on the forward edge of the light to stabilize and use your other hand to basically pry outwards from the bolted part. Here’s pics of the hardware.
Image

Image

Image

The green tab on the front is basically just a guide and it angles pretty aggressively outward which is why it seems the lights are designed to be pried outwards.

6. Fish the wire up through the small gap below the tail light. Not too hard. Did it by myself with my hands just laying on a creeper.

7. As was mentioned earlier, wires go red>red, black>black, white>blue. This is the only part I didn’t do yet because apparently my soldering supplies have gone missing and I didn’t have any connectors I felt good enough about. Ordered some new soldering stuff and will be here in 2 days. I’ll post pics of the finished product this weekend when I wrap it up.

Hope that was helpful 👍🏼
 
Unless there’s clear instructions in another thread, I haven’t seen any so i figured I’d do a write up.

1. Take off the corner under-guard pieces directly below the reflectors. They’re held on by 3 push clips and a single flat head threaded clip thing (circled below). The three clips were already pretty stubborn after only 5000 miles. The threaded one was even more annoying. It doesn’t completely thread off so just back it off as much as you can and give it a real hard yank. I busted my knuckle doing it so maybe wear gloves for that part.
View attachment 14844

2. Remove the reflectors. Super easy. One Philips screw and two tabs. It can’t be a long screwdriver fyi.
View attachment 14845

3. drill a hole for the wires to go through. I used a 3/16 bit and it was perfect. I just eyeballed the location and it ended up right where it needed to be. Sorry I only got a pic from the back. You can see the hole was basically right on the edge of the molded indentation.
View attachment 14848

4. I’d strongly recommend running a bead of silicone along the seam. It didn’t seem particularly well sealed and there’s nothing worse than getting moisture in your fresh china lights. Before you install the new lights, I’d also transfer the little pad things from the original reflectors to prevent any vibration. They just slide onto the tabs. Sorry, no pics of this step but it’s pretty self explanatory.

5. Remove the taillights. Full disclosure, a little nerve wracking. They don’t come off easy. The bolt cover panel in the hatch drip rail is super easy. Did it by hand and just popped right off. View attachment 14849
As you can see the tabs are mild. The tail light itself was the opposite. Take off the two 10 mm bolts and then you kinda have to pry it out. I’d put one hand on the forward edge of the light to stabilize and use your other hand to basically pry outwards from the bolted part. Here’s pics of the hardware.
View attachment 14852
View attachment 14850
View attachment 14851
The green tab on the front is basically just a guide and it angles pretty aggressively outward which is why it seems the lights are designed to be pried outwards.

6. Fish the wire up through the small gap below the tail light. Not too hard. Did it by myself with my hands just laying on a creeper.

7. As was mentioned earlier, wires go red>red, black>black, white>blue. This is the only part I didn’t do yet because apparently my soldering supplies have gone missing and I didn’t have any connectors I felt good enough about. Ordered some new soldering stuff and will be here in 2 days. I’ll post pics of the finished product this weekend when I wrap it up.

Hope that was helpful 👍🏼
Got my soldering stuff today and wrapped up the wiring. Here’s the final product.
Image

Image
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: CrazyAirborne
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Unless there’s clear instructions in another thread, I haven’t seen any so i figured I’d do a write up.

1. Take off the corner under-guard pieces directly below the reflectors. They’re held on by 3 push clips and a single flat head threaded clip thing (circled below). The three clips were already pretty stubborn after only 5000 miles. The threaded one was even more annoying. It doesn’t completely thread off so just back it off as much as you can and give it a real hard yank. I busted my knuckle doing it so maybe wear gloves for that part.
View attachment 14844

2. Remove the reflectors. Super easy. One Philips screw and two tabs. It can’t be a long screwdriver fyi.
View attachment 14845

3. drill a hole for the wires to go through. I used a 3/16 bit and it was perfect. I just eyeballed the location and it ended up right where it needed to be. Sorry I only got a pic from the back. You can see the hole was basically right on the edge of the molded indentation.
View attachment 14848

4. I’d strongly recommend running a bead of silicone along the seam. It didn’t seem particularly well sealed and there’s nothing worse than getting moisture in your fresh china lights. Before you install the new lights, I’d also transfer the little pad things from the original reflectors to prevent any vibration. They just slide onto the tabs. Sorry, no pics of this step but it’s pretty self explanatory.

5. Remove the taillights. Full disclosure, a little nerve wracking. They don’t come off easy. The bolt cover panel in the hatch drip rail is super easy. Did it by hand and just popped right off. View attachment 14849
As you can see the tabs are mild. The tail light itself was the opposite. Take off the two 10 mm bolts and then you kinda have to pry it out. I’d put one hand on the forward edge of the light to stabilize and use your other hand to basically pry outwards from the bolted part. Here’s pics of the hardware.
View attachment 14852
View attachment 14850
View attachment 14851
The green tab on the front is basically just a guide and it angles pretty aggressively outward which is why it seems the lights are designed to be pried outwards.

6. Fish the wire up through the small gap below the tail light. Not too hard. Did it by myself with my hands just laying on a creeper.

7. As was mentioned earlier, wires go red>red, black>black, white>blue. This is the only part I didn’t do yet because apparently my soldering supplies have gone missing and I didn’t have any connectors I felt good enough about. Ordered some new soldering stuff and will be here in 2 days. I’ll post pics of the finished product this weekend when I wrap it up.

Hope that was helpful 👍🏼
You’re a saint. Thanks man. Got mine in the mail yesterday.
 
Unless there’s clear instructions in another thread, I haven’t seen any so i figured I’d do a write up.

1. Take off the corner under-guard pieces directly below the reflectors. They’re held on by 3 push clips and a single flat head threaded clip thing (circled below). The three clips were already pretty stubborn after only 5000 miles. The threaded one was even more annoying. It doesn’t completely thread off so just back it off as much as you can and give it a real hard yank. I busted my knuckle doing it so maybe wear gloves for that part.
View attachment 14844

2. Remove the reflectors. Super easy. One Philips screw and two tabs. It can’t be a long screwdriver fyi.
View attachment 14845

3. drill a hole for the wires to go through. I used a 3/16 bit and it was perfect. I just eyeballed the location and it ended up right where it needed to be. Sorry I only got a pic from the back. You can see the hole was basically right on the edge of the molded indentation.
View attachment 14848

4. I’d strongly recommend running a bead of silicone along the seam. It didn’t seem particularly well sealed and there’s nothing worse than getting moisture in your fresh china lights. Before you install the new lights, I’d also transfer the little pad things from the original reflectors to prevent any vibration. They just slide onto the tabs. Sorry, no pics of this step but it’s pretty self explanatory.

5. Remove the taillights. Full disclosure, a little nerve wracking. They don’t come off easy. The bolt cover panel in the hatch drip rail is super easy. Did it by hand and just popped right off. View attachment 14849
As you can see the tabs are mild. The tail light itself was the opposite. Take off the two 10 mm bolts and then you kinda have to pry it out. I’d put one hand on the forward edge of the light to stabilize and use your other hand to basically pry outwards from the bolted part. Here’s pics of the hardware.
View attachment 14852
View attachment 14850
View attachment 14851
The green tab on the front is basically just a guide and it angles pretty aggressively outward which is why it seems the lights are designed to be pried outwards.

6. Fish the wire up through the small gap below the tail light. Not too hard. Did it by myself with my hands just laying on a creeper.

7. As was mentioned earlier, wires go red>red, black>black, white>blue. This is the only part I didn’t do yet because apparently my soldering supplies have gone missing and I didn’t have any connectors I felt good enough about. Ordered some new soldering stuff and will be here in 2 days. I’ll post pics of the finished product this weekend when I wrap it up.

Hope that was helpful 👍🏼
I guess I'm adding this one to the list! Thanks for the great write-up. Is everyone using the ebay lights or did someone find another source?
 
I guess I'm adding this one to the list! Thanks for the great write-up. Is everyone using the ebay lights or did someone find another source?
I found a few links on amazon for sequential LED replacements for the 22 HB corolla. I just need to know if theyre the same fit
 
link me, I'll be the guinea pig
Sequential for 22-23' just realized its not for the HB but the sedan.

I messaged the sellars from ebay to see if theres a rear sequential option yet.

edit: ebay seller does not have sequential option for gr corolla rear LED reflector.

I found this, for GR yaris rear reflector that is sequential.
 
If I can
I installed mine by just removing some of the rear underbody panels and getting up in the bumper area. i then tapped the taillights for wiring. pretty simple actually.

I meant to do a writeup guide for this but never got around to it.

Heres the wires I tapped off.

Light > Car
Black to Black
Red to Red
White to Blue

View attachment 14637

this makes them work as running taillights, and brake lights.
If I wanted them to run ONLY when brake pedal is pressed. Any idea how I would wire that? Would it be

Light to car
Black to black
No red connection
Blue to white?
 
If I can

If I wanted them to run ONLY when brake pedal is pressed. Any idea how I would wire that? Would it be

Light to car
Black to black
No red connection
Blue to white?
it would be fairly easy to test, i dont recall if its the red or the blue wire on the car side. you have a 50/50 shot of choosing the correct option

its either the red to red or the white to blue. I actually have mine setup this way now as one of my lights, the running tailight died, so i just made them brake only.
 
The factory wiring uses Red for brakes, Blue for running lights, Black for Ground (and I think Yellow for turn). The aftermarket LED-reflectors use Red for brakes, White for running lights, Black for Ground.

I wired up my set only to the brakelight circuit for maximum contrast at night. I pulled out the carpet trim in the hatch area just enough to access the back side of the taillight harness and tapped into it there, that way all of my splices are on the inside and not exposed to the elements. I ran the new wires through the two large grommets on the rear wall behind the license plate. I used a Deutsch connector so I can easily disconnect the mod if I decide it's too much.

Here's a brake test at night, pardon the messy garage.

Image
 
FYI, these are now available on Amazon at the direct link below. No affiliation. I just ordered a set.

[Edit 01/17/24 - I ended up sending the lights I purchased in the link below back for a refund. Feedback below states they burn out after a short time.]

 
Are you seeing total failure or just the loss of the parking light level?
so far mine are just the one side parking lights, i have seen at least one other guy where his one side was out as well, but im not sure how he wired them up. for now, mine are working fine as brakes only.
 
41 - 60 of 70 Posts