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LOL

From my 2006 Corolla's manual:
View attachment 6155 \\


I'm pretty sure that's just what they say for all cars/oils.
I always go a step heavier in my cars. They put in that pisswater to make the fuel economy look better. Well I don't buy sports cars for fuel economy. I drive my cars like they're meant to, so I want the protection.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
EPA BullShit.

5W-30 it is. View attachment 6154
I had the same thought, however thinner oil is a by product means tighter clearances from the factory for the motor. The thinner oil is to maximize lubrication to avoid scoring. At least this is the case for modern turbo Subaru engines. We have a Subaru Ascent, with the FA24DIT, my Ej25 will use 5 or even 10-30, but the ascent demands Subaru 0w-20. When talking to a few mechanics and engine builders; unless you re-ring with a larger tolerance that’s my understanding as to why stock motors use the thin stuff. All that being said, the thinner oil breaks down faster which means more frequent changes if you want longevity. And if you do you a heavier 5w the engine has more resistance on strokes and you will see decreased mpg, as well as potential premature ware to the cylinder walls.
 
I had the same thought, however thinner oil is a by product means tighter clearances from the factory for the motor. The thinner oil is to maximize lubrication to avoid scoring. At least this is the case for modern turbo Subaru engines. We have a Subaru Ascent, with the FA24DIT, my Ej25 will use 5 or even 10-30, but the ascent demands Subaru 0w-20. When talking to a few mechanics and engine builders; unless you re-ring with a larger tolerance that’s my understanding as to why stock motors use the thin stuff. All that being said, the thinner oil breaks down faster which means more frequent changes if you want longevity. And if you do you a heavier 5w the engine has more resistance on strokes and you will see decreased mpg, as well as potential premature ware to the cylinder walls.
this is why i went 0w40 in the crosstrek when i tracked it. however the 0w40 i have is API SN PLUS so i gotta look for another oil to put in the GRC. this is also why i change engine oil after every track day. id like to think i buy descent oil, but no oil is worth keeping in longer than 5k or after* a track day for me.

@Jp925 i would always pull the EFI fuse to prime my toyota's after an oil change. its a nice feature for subaru's to be able to prime the oil after a change by holding down the throttle and it will crank without starting. im going to miss that going forward as i am slowly replacing the subaru's and going back to toyota...
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
this is why i went 0w40 in the crosstrek when i tracked it. however the 0w40 i have is API SN PLUS so i gotta look for another oil to put in the GRC. this is also why i change engine oil after every track day. id like to think i buy descent oil, but no oil is worth keeping in longer than 5k or a track day for me.

@Jp925 i would always pull the EFI fuse to prime my toyota's after an oil change. its a nice feature for subaru's to be able to prime the oil after a change by holding down the throttle and it will crank without starting. im going to miss that going forward as i am slowly replacing the subaru's and going back to toyota...
All this time I thought I was the only one that knew about the throttle trick…. A lot of just just unplug the crank sensor just behind the alternator. Good to know about the fuse though, I’ll be doing this later today in my GR.
 
All this time I thought I was the only one that knew about the throttle trick…. A lot of just just unplug the crank sensor just behind the alternator. Good to know about the fuse though, I’ll be doing this later today in my GR.
fuse or sensor, which ever is easiest. which filter did you end up getting?
 
Oil discussion are always never ending. OEM has tested the factory oil weight will provide sufficient protection for the engine for 99% of conditions.

If you track your car, then you may want to consider going a step thicker to provide adequate oil pressures for when the oil thins out due to increased temps. Ideally you log this data so it’s not a blind guess.
 
All oil grades are too thick at startup. 0w will be slightly thinner in extreme low temps. That’s why oil makers often say 0w30 is a substitute for 5w30.

The operating grade is what you want to pay attention to. 30 grade will be thicker than 20. Toyota has tested 20 grade will provide adequate protection and oil pressure at operating temp. Going 30 will be fine but you’re also not getting any benefits from it unless you can push your oil temps past 240 and it thins out past 20 grade spec.

Just pure speculation but maybe Toyota used a 5k oil change interval instead of typical 10k because 20w breaks down to a thinner spec after 5k.
 
Yep.

Amsoil links below. Been using them for over 20 years in everything, bikes, watercraft, cars, trucks, even the lawn equipment.

Transfer and Diff:

MTF:
75W (What I’d use for now until some tuners and track folk perform testing)

Regular MTF (5W-30)

Motor Oil:
OEM recommended weight
5W-20
5W-30
i tried to see what amsoil aus recommended and the gr yaris isnt updated there, so i tried euro and this is what they recommended
 
i tried to see what amsoil aus recommended and the gr yaris isnt updated there, so i tried euro and this is what they recommended
They are always going to default to the OEM recommended weight. We need the tuners shops to test the thing extensively, on dyno, and track and we should see some recommendations. I’m in the South where we see high humidity and 100 degrees for a good portion of the year. Hard driving usually sees recommendation of a heavier oil. we shall see. I’d be doing 0W-20 for now until we get intel.
 
I
They are always going to default to the OEM recommended weight. We need the tuners shops to test the thing extensively, on dyno, and track and we should see some recommendations. I’m in the South where we see high humidity and 100 degrees for a good portion of the year. Hard driving usually sees recommendation of a heavier oil. we shall see. I’d be doing 0W-20 for now until we get intel.
same here, 0w20 until data says otherwise. I just found it interesting amsoil EU recommend a 75w110 for transfer and diff, but nothing for transmission. they also recommend the same spec gear oil in transfer and diff. unlike the owners manual where the transfer gets LT (non-limited slip) and the diff gets LX (limited slip). I emailed redline and they also recommended the same gear oil but they have a 75w85. and I also referenced redline aus which recommended the same.
 
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