[kingofthehill29]

I think the important thing is getting GL-4 in the gearbox and GL-5 in the transfercase and rear diff. I am planning on going with MTL next time (since it is a little thicker than MTLV and still GL-4) in the transmission and I think I am going to step up the transfercase to something thicker not sure yet what fluid. I also plan to send off a sample from the transfercase to blackstone, I am curious what the fluid looks like with two track days and multiple AWD overheats.

 

[JimsGarageToys]

I think the important thing is getting GL-4 in the gearbox and GL-5 in the transfercase and rear diff. I am planning on going with MTL next time (since it is a little thicker than MTLV and still GL-4) in the transmission and I think I am going to step up the transfercase to something thicker not sure yet what fluid. I also plan to send off a sample from the transfercase to blackstone, I am curious what the fluid looks like with two track days and multiple AWD overheats.

It would be interesting to see the results of the gear fluid.

 

[kingofthehill29]

It would be interesting to see the results of the gear fluid.

I will post them somewhere when I get around to it. Probably will be sometime between now and April. I am not planning to track the car anymore this year and I only have about 3500 miles on the current fluid. Ill probably do it before my next track day in April or when I hit 5k on the fluid.

 

[wheelhaus]

Also very interested.

 

[apyao]

I changed the rear differential and transfer case fluid over the weekend and replaced the fluid with Redline GL-5 75W-85W. A few notes:
-the diff fluid was darker and more sedimented than the transfer case fluid (I don’t know if this remotely related to the LX vs LT guide used from the factory)
-the crush gaskets (12157-10010) are oriented from the factory with the flat side facing -away- from the drain/fill bolts i.e. the deformable part of the gasket faces the head of the bolt.
-when filling the transfer case or rear diff, the orientation of the fill tube made a big difference in how quickly fluid would spill out of the fill hole. I had to be patient and follow the service manual instructions (“Add the differential oil in small quantities every few minutes.”) This was annoying and different from all other diffs I’ve ever worked on (pump pump pump pump until fluid comes out) — the aggravation was exacerbated by the ravenous mosquitos emerging from winter hibernation.
-the transfer case fill bolt was accessible with a normal 3/8” socket 10mm hex bit and a standard clicky torque wrench (29 ft-lbs)— no need for the SST tool referenced in the service manual.
-I wish Redline bottles had a transparent strip showing the fluid level. That would provide more reassurance that the correct amount of fluid was added vs guesstimating the weight of the bottles compared to full.
-I will deal with the transmission fluid change another time. At first glance that fill bolt seems rather tight quarters; test fitting a regular 1/2” ratchet and socket didn’t seem like it was going to work. The two DIY videos I’ve seen so far use a low profile socket vs a bigboy combination wrench. But I’m a stickler for proper torque specs so I haven’t figured out what I’m going to do yet.

 

[GRMoth]

Check out this website, it lists 219 alternates for the 90915-YZZF1.

Oli Filter alternates