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Guy I used to talk to here, and now on the gram since he was banned, did 4-5 videos on his page, and messaged me extensively saying he had zero issues with cooling while doing two track days this past saturday and sunday down in texas. And said it was all overblown and hyped about cooling issues. His temps never went up super high and stayed relatively normal considering how he was driving it etc.
It always varies by owner, even with the Yaris. Some owners never saw it, some see it at track days, and some had severe issues just going to the store.

The situation is not overblown, he just doesn’t have the issue himself. I don’t think it’s bad per se though
 
It’s strange. I’ve noticed the same thing in some GRY conversations. Some people claim to literally have never experienced the overheat warning on track, while others claim to get it while just driving under normal conditions. I think this is what has led some people to think it’s more a electronics issue rather then a mechanical issue. Regardless, it’s clear the way the system operates constantly generates heat so mitigation efforts are a good thing.

I’m not going to go ham and throw the whole catalog at it but I’ll continue to try things if I get the issue and it persists. It’ll be really interesting to see more in depth actual testing and experiences as time goes on.
I've felt it when driving more spirited / faster on snowy conditions as there the car balance change can be easier felt. On circuit haven't felt it, and never got the error message. let's see next summer with semi slicks..
 
I believe tracks that has more sharp turns will generate this issue than tracks that are with less turns. Also really depends on how hard you push the car.
This could be part of the problem, someone mentioned he changed his diff fluid and came out dark, so I did it as well just now. the fluid came out is gunky and dark, no bad smell yet, but definitely sometime to consider change more often when tracking. This time I am going to use OE Toyota fluid LX75W-85 GL5 for the rear diff and LT 75W-85 GL-5 for front transfer case.
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Even with the Cusco cover and exhaust wrapped, the diff still overheated...
Whomever comes up with a permanent affordable fix will be a legend in the GRC/GRY community!
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Even with the Cusco cover and exhaust wrapped, the diff still overheated...
Whomever comes up with a permanent affordable fix will be a legend in the GRC/GRY community!
View attachment 8558
If the clutch packs are the issue then a bigger dif cover isnt going to help. The additional fluid isn’t cooling the clutch packs. I get that it’s reducing some temp via heat transfer but that’s not the issue.
 
Found this post on a GRY forum discussing the issue and one person claims to have solved theirs with an air duct to the ITCC unit and exhaust wrap. First they tried the duct, got like one more lap before overheat, then added wrap and no further issues.

 
Even with the Cusco cover and exhaust wrapped, the diff still overheated...
Whomever comes up with a permanent affordable fix will be a legend in the GRC/GRY community!
View attachment 8558
I have a feeling Toyota has a fix in their Super Taikyu car.
 
not a fan of any of these bandaid fixes. would be best to track the issue to it's root and solve that. it's honestly very strange that toyota didn't know how to fix this entirely unless they don't want to admit an inherent fault with gr-four that causes this to happen regardless of anything. surprised they never thought of a direct cooling method for the clutch pack
 
Just an aside, but as an engineer I’d be concerned that every time you overheat that rear clutch pack severely enough to go into FWD only mode, that you are taking some severe lifetime out of it. My experience with clutches (and clutch packs in differentials) is that overheating them causes severely accelerated wear. Like, if you keep doing this over and over I’d bet that sooner rather than later the clutch pack will not be able to transfer torque properly to the rear wheels as needed.

PS I also have a ZL1 1LE with the Elsd rear diff (it’s incredible how that thing puts the power down!!!). It is equipped with its own separate pump and radiator and cooling system from the factory. (I’m sure that that clutch pack generates lots of heat during hard track use!!). Even though it doesn’t overheat, it is recommended to change the fluid every other track weekend if you are using it hard. I’d say that if you are tracking your GRC hard, and ESPECIALLY if you are getting clutch pack overheat warnings, I’d suggest changing that fluid often; maybe every track weekend even. Hopefully Toyota will cover full warranty expense on replacing burned out clutch packs on tracked cars (if/when they fail). Running this component super hot over and over is probably no bueno.
 
That’s cheaper then the Cusco cover lol. I wonder how it taps into the diff?
probably through both fill holes. there's fittings in the kit that bolt into them. pumped in one way and vacuum extracted through the other to complete it.

you can save money and build your own tbh. find any oil cooler that fits under there and find the correct fittings. not much different than a turbo swap

thinking on it, toyota wanted the aftermarket to solve this. i don't think they wanted to R&D this further and bake an OEM level quality oil cooler into the price. they really wanted to stay under 40k by any means. future revisions will probably include one or a redesign.
 
This is why I was wondering if the clutch pack, sealed or not, ran in an oil bath. It seems a cooler directly on the clutch pack would be the way to go, with a direct heat path and more fluid volume.
You might get clever and use the rotation of the clutch assembly in the small housing with a scraper and large hoses to move the fluid without a pump, but that would entail major mods to the housing.
 
This is why I was wondering if the clutch pack, sealed or not, ran in an oil bath. It seems a cooler directly on the clutch pack would be the way to go, with a direct heat path and more fluid volume.
You might get clever and use the rotation of the clutch assembly in the small housing with a scraper and large hoses to move the fluid without a pump, but that would entail major mods to the housing.
Based on every drawing and image I’ve seen they’re dry. I was also talking to the designer at HRNSHN Racing and it’s got a temp sensor on the top that monitors the temp on the GRY but there’s no fluid sadly
 
The fins on the housing aren't going to do a lot of good then. I was hoping that the driven flange would have a bearing that needed some lube. I could see some friction losses with fluid, but at least it would transfer heat to the housing and out.
 
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