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GR Corolla AWD Overheating

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#121 ·
Jeonsa said:
When we originally brought up the AWD overheating on this forum over a year ago, it wasn’t like we brought it up to bash the system. It was genuinely a discussion about some of the pros and cons we knew about the GR Yaris that could possibly be inherited by the Corolla.

Even then…. people who jumped on the hype accused us of hating on the car. Now the issues come and those same people are saying the car is trash or broken. 😂

I find it funny.
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I’m confused why people are saying changing the rear diff fluid is gonna help/ increasing the fluid capacity… isn’t the fluid that’s overheating encased in the rear COUPLER and not the differential?
 
#122 ·
Cockrolla said:
I’m confused why people are saying changing the rear diff fluid is gonna help/ increasing the fluid capacity… isn’t the fluid that’s overheating encased in the rear COUPLER and not the differential?
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yes but the fluid that keeps the diff cool can transfer temp via heat exchange to the coupler. it travels through the driveshaft via hydraulic fluid (specially formulated to transfer temp aka DOT9).

directly cooling the coupler will cause the ratio to change from 102% overdriven to 97%. not something you want as it upsets the balance of the car
 
#123 ·
Cockrolla said:
I’m confused why people are saying changing the rear diff fluid is gonna help/ increasing the fluid capacity… isn’t the fluid that’s overheating encased in the rear COUPLER and not the differential?
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driftingintowalls said:
yes but the fluid that keeps the diff cool can transfer temp via heat exchange to the coupler. it travels through the driveshaft via hydraulic fluid (specially formulated to transfer temp aka DOT9).

directly cooling the coupler will cause the ratio to change from 102% overdriven to 97%. not something you want as it upsets the balance of the car
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Yeah it’s all about heat transfer that’s why the system goes completely into fwd for about 10 minutes for cool down. I want to see a diagram or something of the system doing this.

More fluid and air flow together should help curb some of those issues but the problem will always be there in some capacity.
 
#124 ·
Right now I ran two track days at Road Atlanta. First one was on 2/18 where the ambient temp stayed cool and I did not have an issue with overheating. 2nd one I did on 2/27, I was getting AWD System overheating message after 8-9 laps. Session is 30mins long, but I was only able to do about 15mins stint. I was in sport/track/expert mode when message popped. Only things added were front brake ducts and wrapped exhaust near rear diff, Amsoil 5w30 engine oil, everything else is stock. Planning to get more air pointing at the clutch pack, change the diff fluid and cover to see if they help.
 
#131 ·
Boostpower said:
Yes, I will share the part numbers in another thread
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Hey really interested to hear about your experience with the brake ducts. The OEM ones are really interesting because they just sort of dump into the wheel well and direct air at the caliper from a distance. I was thinking about purchasing just the panels behind the grill with the opening to the ducts, then running my own custom ducting strapped to the LCA right to the back of the center of the disc so it feeds the inside of the cooling fins. That said, I assume the OEM ducts are designed this way so they don't OVER-cool the brakes leading to bad performance on the street under normal driving conditions. I think if I did my custom setup, I'd need to find a way to block the ducts when I'm not at the track so the brakes get up to normal temp while street driving. That, or I could just match the OEM routing and dump into the wheel well. It's just hard to spend $600 on parts when I could achieve the same effect for like 1/6th the cost

If you could add to my thread in the tech section that would be awesome. Brake ducting part numbers & diagrams

Sorry to derail thread lol.

Back on topic. Quantum doesn't ship out of AUS so if you want their cooling duct you need to have a friend in AUS ship it to you :(
 
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#133 ·
Did step 1 today. Pretty easy to do with the exhaust on if you use the DEI titanium wrap that you don’t need to soak. 3” stainless clamps work great. Be sure to start the wrap at the muffler side so the overlap seams don’t go against against the underbody airflow and get all frayed.
Image
 
#136 ·
Guy I used to talk to here, and now on the gram since he was banned, did 4-5 videos on his page, and messaged me extensively saying he had zero issues with cooling while doing two track days this past saturday and sunday down in texas. And said it was all overblown and hyped about cooling issues. His temps never went up super high and stayed relatively normal considering how he was driving it etc.
 
#137 ·
mdp5094 said:
Guy I used to talk to here, and now on the gram since he was banned, did 4-5 videos on his page, and messaged me extensively saying he had zero issues with cooling while doing two track days this past saturday and sunday down in texas. And said it was all overblown and hyped about cooling issues. His temps never went up super high and stayed relatively normal considering how he was driving it etc.
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It’s strange. I’ve noticed the same thing in some GRY conversations. Some people claim to literally have never experienced the overheat warning on track, while others claim to get it while just driving under normal conditions. I think this is what has led some people to think it’s more a electronics issue rather then a mechanical issue. Regardless, it’s clear the way the system operates constantly generates heat so mitigation efforts are a good thing.

I’m not going to go ham and throw the whole catalog at it but I’ll continue to try things if I get the issue and it persists. It’ll be really interesting to see more in depth actual testing and experiences as time goes on.
 
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#138 ·
Who has logged the actual temperatures of the clutch coupling, under what conditions?
Have the Yaris folks worked out the control logic and OE sensors involved with overheating > FWD?
It seem like you could at least bolt a thermistor under one of the housing bolts and at least give yourself warning of elevated temps before it disconnected, or rule out a software based temperature estimation error.
 
#139 ·
mdp5094 said:
Guy I used to talk to here, and now on the gram since he was banned, did 4-5 videos on his page, and messaged me extensively saying he had zero issues with cooling while doing two track days this past saturday and sunday down in texas. And said it was all overblown and hyped about cooling issues. His temps never went up super high and stayed relatively normal considering how he was driving it etc.
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Ask the guy to replicate the track days in Texas in the summer time and see if he has the same results. I would say probably not.
 
#140 ·
Tokyotexan said:
Ask the guy to replicate the track days in Texas in the summer time and see if he has the same results. I would say probably not.
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We already know about how this drivetrain reacts to heat. Member all the shit reviews from the journos during their time in Utah? During the summer and at elevation. I will tell the guy since he was banned from here yes.
 
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