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Is there somewhere that states the miles/time interval for changing the rear diff and transfer and the transmission fluid out?
I'm at 1k miles now and will be doing a oil change ge here soon. I can't seem to find that info anywhere as to when to change them. Only the recommended oil weights. View attachment 7843
View attachment 7842
You need to look at the maintenance log for the intervals. Found in this post.

Pretty much Toyota won't do it until 20k.

 
You need to look at the maintenance log for the intervals. Found in this post.

Pretty much Toyota won't do it until 20k.

Ok just checked out the logs and at 10k miles it states to change the diff, transfer case if using a roof rack or towing or driving on dusty roads. So seems like is safe to change every 10-15k as a normal interval or once annually.
 
i picked up a Gr Corolla Oil Filter P/N 90915-YZZN1
this thing is tiny af :LOL:

ive been using redline for 20 years in my toyota transmissions and diffs. however this is my first toyota transfer case. these are what i have on order:
transfer and diff: 75W85 GL-5 Gear Oil
transmission: MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 Gear Oil
I've always used Redline in my transmissions and rear diffs for my cars too with excellent results. I just bought 2 quarts of 75w-85 GL-5 gear oil and I had a case of the MT-LV 70w-75w since I have 2 other Corollas that also use that same oil.

For engine oil I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20. This is an excellent quality oil and half the price of Amzoil.
 
So wait, other thread's been saying the transfer is a sealed non-serviceable unit? But this would seem to indicate otherwise?
Ah wait, OK, the transfer is up at the transmission and is seperated from the transaxle. What I'm thinking of is the rear clutch pack.
 
So wait, other thread's been saying the transfer is a sealed non-serviceable unit? But this would seem to indicate otherwise?
Ah wait, OK, the transfer is up at the transmission and is seperated from the transaxle. What I'm thinking of is the rear clutch pack.
Interesting, the rear clutch pack fluid can't be changed? That seems odd.
 
Interesting, the rear clutch pack fluid can't be changed? That seems odd.
There’s no fluid in the clutch pack it’s got a temp sensor but the clutch pack themselves don’t appear to be in fluid and I spoke to an engineer from a company in Germany who do Yaris parts and the GRY doesn’t have fluid either
Image
 
Really? Wow thats pretty high! The trans ones are a pretty good size into solid aluminum castings i guess. The engine oil drain i wasnt expecting that high.
Sorry i was thinking 14ft lbs, that the filter itself.
In all of my years changing engine oil and other oils I've never torqued drain plugs. I just make them snug and I've never had an issue. I've had many Toyota Master Techs tell me the same thing and that's what they do too.
 
That drain number shows it to fit 2019-2021 Toyota Corolla , so magnetic plugs should be readily available.
I might just chuck mine in the lathe and bore it for a magnet
I have magnets that attach to the side of the oil filter that I bought years ago and they work great.
 
Just picked up an Oil Filter and ordered this Oil filter wrench. Doing a break in Oil change at 1k and figured this would make it alot easier to get off, the Filter wrench is not an OEM toyota one, but this fits it perfectly. View attachment 7548 View attachment 7549
I've used this same oil filter wrench for many of my other Toyotas and it fit's and works great. I highly recommend it. Even my daughters 22 Sienna uses the N1 filter and it was really on there from the factory but this made it a breeze to get off with my 24" breaker bar.
 
Hello attached is a scanned PDF for the complete maintenance guide taken from the car.
If this has already been uploaded then mods can delete this post. But I am assuming this would be the place to drop it in order for my fellow GR owners to refer to it moving forward.

This guide includes the scanned pages from 1250 miles to 115k miles.
That pdf has everything? Brakes(bleeding and pads) diff alignment transfer and different
 
Oops. Yes, they are radial mount calipers, but Toyota specifically says to NOT remove the radial mounting bolts and separate the caliper from the bracket. You remove the caliper with the bracket. If you accidentally remove the radial mounting bolts, there's a whole procedure they tell you to go through to reinstall the calipers.
Image
 
Yep.

Amsoil links below. Been using them for over 20 years in everything, bikes, watercraft, cars, trucks, even the lawn equipment.

Transfer and Diff:

MTF:
75W (What I’d use for now until some tuners and track folk perform testing)

Regular MTF (5W-30)

Motor Oil:
OEM recommended weight
5W-20
5W-30
If you call amsoil and talk to their tech support, they only offer engine oil, coolant and brake fluid for the gr corolla. The other fluids don't meet the specs toyota is reccomending. I just spoke with them this morning. They do not reccomend using the 75w90 or anything else for that car. It may work the same but not worth losing your warranty over if there is a failure and you were using fluids that didn't meet the proper spec
 
If you call amsoil and talk to their tech support, they only offer engine oil, coolant and brake fluid for the gr corolla. The other fluids don't meet the specs toyota is reccomending. I just spoke with them this morning. They do not reccomend using the 75w90 or anything else for that car. It may work the same but not worth losing your warranty over if there is a failure and you were using fluids that didn't meet the proper spec
I have been doing this for over 20 years. I will put the best product in my vehicles and let someone else worry about a warranty. I’m going FBO and tuning anyways. And I drain my fluids and send them to a lab for analyzation, Blackstone Labs in fact. So Toyota or any mfr, will just make me laugh as I used better fluids, sending samples from the engine, MT, diffs, off to a lab to be independently analyzed and certified. Data in hand. Simple samples will tell you how the engine, etc is working and what is wearing. And that can tip you off to a problem such as coolant getting into your engine oil. Been there and done that.

0w20 on this engine is fools play IMO. Maybe for someone just using the car to commute to work but no way in hell is that oil weight sufficient for someone hammering corners, going wfo in the heat. Already seeing oil starvation issues on track with this weight oil in other cars where it’s the recommended oil. So I am not concerned about anything Toyota say regarding this since their oil weight recommendation is BS. Toyota can prove how 75w90 caused a failure in court as I claim Magnuson Moss. Amsoil engine oil, transfer case, diff, MTF, is more than sufficient. Only thing I wouldn’t do is use Amsoil in some proprietary thing such as clutch packs. Nothing else is some new wonderment on this car. Diffs are diffs. Torsens are in plenty of other vehicles and I’ve owned Torsen diffs before using 75w90 with no issues whatsoever. Same thing for a manual transmission. There is nothing new under the sun with this 6MT compared to others.

Toyota badged lubricants are no different than Honda or any other mfr. It’s just rebranded crap with new marketing labeled on the bottle. And specs Toyota is recommending is done on purpose to try and get people to buy lubricants from them. So in the end it’s just a money grab and this is nothing new. This is where using a lab comes into play. Good luck to them in warranty denial with lab tests in hand. I’m not worried about this. This worry is for someone else.
 
I just did my first engine oil change tonight on my GRC with 898 miles. I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 and the old oil looked pretty good as it came out. I didn't capture any for a lab test this time. View attachment 9050
why not use the quick jacks? I also use rhino ramps when I need to do something under the car. ps. I love the stable! 😁
 
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