Very helpful, thanks!

 

Hello, thank you for the post. Is a rear camera available from this firm?

 

If you mean a backup camera, since 2018, by law all new cars must have that.

 

The frameless Homelink mirror you installed must have a much slimmer body than the old auto-dimming mirror I had laying around the garage. The body of it was too fat on the backside and I couldn't get it into adjustment. I had to remove the plastic shroud around the camera and take a heat gun to it to cave it in a little to make enough clearance. Not the end of the world, just didn't expect it. Fortunately there's a lot of nothing behind that shroud.

 

Thank you!! I didnt know you have to plug the harness back in for the black wire ground to be working lol... now I just use the pin insert and power my Uniden R4.. thank you!!!!!! Great help!

 

What hardwire kit did you use for the v1?

 

I used this V1 wiring adapter to tap into self dimming mirror power connector (simple paddle push in)..

I used this mirror mount to solidly attach my V1 to the mirror..

Hope this helps!

Adding pics of how it all looks installed..

 

Also what year and car model did you buy the mirror for. With how close I have my radar it’s annoying to flip the tab to manually dim the mirror.

 

The first post has a link to the actual mirror I purchased and installed.. "NEW Advent/Gentex Frameless Auto Dim Rear View Mirror w/Homelink® V5 & Homelink® Connect - For Select Non-Prewired Toyota Vehicles 2014-2023"

Hope this helps...

 

I followed the link but you still need a car model and year, I was curious what you picked.

 

NEW Advent/Gentex Frameless Auto Dim Rear View Mirror w/Homelink® V5 & Homelink® Connect - For Select Non-Prewired Toyota Vehicles 2014-2023
Optional - Select the wire cover for your mirror kit:: No Wire Cover Needed
OPTIONAL-Do you need a windshield mounting kit?: No windshield mounting kit needed
Required - Select your vehicle's installation information: 2018 Corolla
Product ID: 100076+INSTCORO18

 

Those of you with the Frameless Homelink mirror might want to add some sort of bump to the center of the Homelink buttons, as they are out of sight and don't really have any tactile features to help you tell which is which. I used some dots of thick foam tape until I think of something better.

 

So is there no OEM Toyota Homelink mirror available that is wired and not battery operated @fradlis ?

 

Not that I am aware of.. the one i linked to I think is used by Toyota as OEM and has long enough of a extension from the mount to fit GR's front view camera cover..

 

Just did the mirror install following the above directions.
Sourced my mirror here (same mirror):

Amazon.com: Advent ADVGENFLCHLN Gentex Frameless Rear View Mirror with Homelink Connect : Tools & Home Improvement

Shop Amazon for Advent ADVGENFLCHLN Gentex Frameless Rear View Mirror with Homelink Connect and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.

www.amazon.com

Ended up being a little bit cheaper, and being Prime I got it in 2 days.

Homelink works well and the lights on the buttons are not intrusive. Dimming is really fast. However, even though the mirror itself is frameless, the dimming portion has a border of about 2 mm.

I went with the Posi-Tap Taps minis. They worked perfectly for the gauge of the wire:

Amazon.com: Posi-Tap taps 20-22 ga. Mini. Pack of 6. Posi Taps The Best Line Tap Youll Ever Use! (Choose Your Gauge Size and Amount) (6, 20-22 Mini) : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Posi-Tap taps 20-22 ga. Mini. Pack of 6. Posi Taps The Best Line Tap Youll Ever Use! (Choose Your Gauge Size and Amount) (6, 20-22 Mini): Cutting Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

Does everything come from pin 2 and 9? I see how the mirror is connected. Radar detector is from another inline tap. How about the dash cam power source ? Thanks.

 

I too would like to know if we could tap into a power source for review mirror with Homelink for a dash camera, does anyone have a electrical interface documentation with voltage and amperage as it would be nice to just add an additional harness to the existing space behind my review mirror plastic housing area, I found it really nice that you can slip the dash cam cables around the plastic shroud. I that cover would hide everything if we could get power from it, Even if it was a 12-volt source, we could add a battery elimination circuit that steps it down to the proper voltage and use say a USB type-c which most – cams use these days and have a type c breakout board that we can then solder a harness end to I personally don't even use the home link feature but it may have been a great choice because I'm not sure if The versions that didn't get that option have an existing wiring harness somewhere in the roof liner, which is also another thing to to consider if running cables through the headliner all the way back to the rear camera It looks like there may be a space between from what appears to be a fiberglass sort of hard inner shell roof liner that seems like it's separated or lack for better words divided from the actual chassis. Let me know y'all's thoughts

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV2FRBCS

And for those who are wondering, this is the camera system I'm installing.

 

For reference, these are the connections CorollaNewbie was referring to.

The cable you see on each side coming from each camera is outlined in red inside the plastic enclosure so not to confuse it with stock wiring.

 

Forgive my ignorance did you tie into the connector in your first pic or last pic?

 

Note: Parking mode with the camera I'm installing provides surveillance on your parked vehicle. When the engine is off. Hardwire Kit is used to provide continuous power and protect your car battery from being drained. They manufacture of this product recommends to buy VIOFO HK3-C ACC hardwire kit cable for parking mode recording.

Well, after a quick test of turning the vehicle off opening the door, closing the door, locking it as if everything inside the vehicle is turned off. Obviously the power outlets aren't continuous. They shut off when the car is off but it seems when I press buttons on the review mirror I get a light and where there's light. if this is constant even when the car is off then that's great, cut the harness short and tap it in possibly, So this device operates on 5 volts and no more than 2.5 amps. Yes, the device is type c but it probably is just a 2.0 version of it. Plus the 12 volt adapter states it's 5 volt on its output at no more than 2.5 amp. So if anyone knows if there's a viable supply we can tap into these are the requirements.

Additionally, I'm not so comfortable pulling the inner paneling off. I guess it's the front something pillar where the tweeters are as those have airbags labeled on them and I'm not sure if that's safe to disassemble.

 

The OEM Toyota "frameless homelink mirror" is battery powered, according to the GRC configurator on Toyota's website. So there isn't any car power going into the mirror? Why would Toyota do it this way...

 

They did it this way because it's toyota. They need their parts to fit as many vehicles as possible to keep the cost low.

 

Guys just install the mirror that OP described.
It works. It has Homelink. It auto-dims. It's better in every way.

The damn thing even tells you if the door is going up or down. None of my other Homelink-enabled cars ever did that.

 

Is it different than the ones they install at port?

 

i had the issue of trying to sync a modern rolling code remote to an older garage door opener at my last place & was able to get it working by installing a rolling code receiver i picked up at home depot for about 15$.

 

Just installed the mirror mentioned by OP, total
Installation time was maybe 20 minutes. Easiest thing I have done on this or any car, ever.

I used the Positaps as well, those things are magical and I should have bought them for my subwoofer installation and saved myself unnecessary agony.

 

@fradlis Thanks for the writeup, I really appreciate it.

 

Do you have the T6’s diagram? I assume it’s a different plug….

 

Sure, here's T6 that connects to the "map light" aka "personal light."

 

Sure, here's T6 that connects to the "map light" aka "personal light."

View attachment 19277

Hello everyone. I bought the mirror tap, but I couldn’t pull 12v from T21 - 16 and T21 - 13. What am I doing wrong? How do I find T6? Mine is a 2025 GR Corolla automatic. Thanks!

 

None of those look like a match, as the Forward Camera connector is 16-pin.

 

None of those look like a match, as the Forward Camera connector is 16-pin. If you really don't want to cut into your factory wiring at all (it's nbd...), I suggest buying or making a pair of taps like these:

Amazon.com

The pins just shove into the backside of the connector where the wires enter the connector (friction fit). The kit comes with 3 different size of pins to fit different connectors, use the largest one that is a snug fit.

I just wanted the option for quick interchangeable items and/or removing it to leave it completely stock.

I did however find this? This is a 16 pin however have contacted them with OP’s -6 pin diagram to verify which adaptor is theirs is a fit if anybody should be interested I’ll follow-up.

 

Installed exactly as OP posted, worked great, thanks for the tips. Hardest part was trying to cut the sleeves on my wires without nicking the wires. The sleeve is super tight.

 

@MRT2 @RedBeard Just to be clear in case this is your first time messing around with wiring in your car: not every 16 pin connector is going to have the same pinout. In most situations, there isn't a "standard" wiring diagram for a particular type of automotive body plug. Don't assume that just because two connectors are physically compatible, that you can safely plug them in together. That would be incredibly naive.

So, yeah...it's no surprise that some random "Dongar Tech" 16-pin adapter you found is not suited for this purpose at all.

 

OP did you disconnect the battery before you started doing this ?

 

I didn’t but generally any time you’re messing with electronics it’s a good idea to disconnect.