[Kaotic Lazagna]

That's insane!

 

[NuBieGRCorolla]

Day 4.5 - 1000 mile

He had a rav four, 470K in 4 years?

 

[Kaotic Lazagna]

That's just as bad as this one guy back in the day on the YarisWorld forum who put over 500k miles on his in 5 years. He had to drive from state to state for his job (which I forget what it actually was).

 

[Adankid]

Day 4.5 - 1000 mile

He had a rav four, 470K in 4 years?

That person.

 

[moving_target01]

I just saw this video and have to share it.

Summarized: the thinnest I will ever run is 5w30, though I might go to 10w30 - I need to read through the differences.

 

[Treavus]

ZDDP and Moly are anti-wear additives. They are present in oil to help limit/cease metal to metal contact. That is important within the turbo in so far as the shaft that connects the hot and cold side. In regards to the engine, its critical for any/all moving parts.

To the best of my knowledge, they have no impact in terms of dealing with heat or heat dissipation. That would by the task of your oil cooling system.

There is such a thing as too much ZDDP (not sure about Moly) as ZDDP will slowly clog your catalytic converter. The higher the ZDDP content, the faster this clogging occurs. That is why if you're going to run a racing oil, run it for that race, then change it back to your standard oil right after.

From what I've seen racing oils tend to run above 2000ppm of ZDDP (Royal Purple Max as high as 3000ppm), but a standard oil runs around 800ppm.

I believe too much ZDDP will also begin to increase wear. The relationship between wear and ZDDP is parabolic I think.

see:

 

[moving_target01]

I believe too much ZDDP will also begin to increase wear. The relationship between wear and ZDDP is parabolic I think.

see:

Yup. I watched one of Lake's videos and he went into detail that too much ZDDP becomes acidic.

 

[Wsidr1]

I just saw this video and have to share it.

Summarized: the thinnest I will ever run is 5w30, though I might go to 10w30 - I need to read through the differences.

Watched and agree. I am in the Midwest and Winters are not terribly harsh. I'll probably never run my car below 15-20F. My plan is 5W-30 Winter and 10W-30 Summer. My garage rarely gets below 30F.

Also, I would have missed a test question in impact of pre-filling the fliter when applied to the two different viscosities. I would have guessed the lower viscosity would flow/fill the filter quicker, therefore result in less wear. Wrong! Lake says higher viscosity residuals on the parts resulted in less damage after running without pre-filling the filter.

 

[OrionRunner]

Watched and agree. I am in the Midwest and Winters are not terribly harsh. I'll probably never run my car below 15-20F. My plan is 5W-30 Winter and 10W-30 Summer. My garage rarely gets below 30F.

Also, I would have missed a test question in impact of pre-filling the fliter when applied to the two different viscosities. I would have guessed the lower viscosity would flow/fill the filter quicker, therefore result in less wear. Wrong! Lake says higher viscosity residuals on the parts resulted in less damage after running without pre-filling the filter.

Maybe the S2000 oil grades may be useful due to there very high hp per liter engine. They call for 10w30 summer and 5W40 winter. Ive seen this engine with oil changes every 3000-5000 go 500k plus miles with even tighter tolerance the the G16e-gts.

 

[OrionRunner]

Went on a little adventure through Toyota owner's manual in the UK and AU and all GR Yaris and GR Corolla call for 0W20 no matter what climate. Which doesn't make sense to me because the GR86 is allowed up to 5W30 and even the 2024 Hybrid Camry is allowed to use 5W30 in certain climates. This really confuses me on why Toyota wouldn't even recommend a different oil grade even in the AU. Hell, even the 2024 Pruis says it okay for 5W30. So, was the G16E-GTS just perfectly designed for 0W20?

Owner's Manual | Toyota Europe (toyota-europe.com)

 

[moving_target01]

Went on a little adventure through Toyota owner's manual in the UK and AU and all GR Yaris and GR Corolla call for 0W20 no matter what climate. Which doesn't make sense to me because the GR86 is allowed up to 5W30 and even the 2024 Hybrid Camry is allowed to use 5W30 in certain climates. This really confuses me on why Toyota wouldn't even recommend a different oil grade even in the AU. Hell, even the 2024 Pruis says it okay for 5W30. So, was the G16E-GTS just perfectly designed for 0W20?

Owner's Manual | Toyota Europe (toyota-europe.com)

Venturing a guess here is that the G16E-GTS was designed with the ILSAC GF-6B standard in mind, whereas the FA20/FA24 was designed before the ILSAC GF-6A/B requirements were put in place (ie. 2020).

"The ILSAC GF-6B standard is characterized by:

• no backward compatibility with older engines
• greater ability to mitigate the LSPI phenomenon (Low Speed Pre-Ignition)
• good economy of engine operation (VIF tests)

This standard is only applicable in SAE 0W-16 viscosity with a minimum HTHS = 2.4"

7 stricter quality criteria for ILSAC GF-6 - the latest quality specification for engine oils.

Typically, car users distinguish engine oils by their viscosity (e.g. 5W-30, 0W-20 or 5W-40), considering this parameter as a quality indicator. This is not a sufficient factor to justify the compatibility of the oil with the engine. That's why quality standards are list...

totalenergies-eng.prowly.com

BTW - the higher the HTHS in the oil the better.

LSPI most commonly happens in situations like you're in 2nd gear at 2000rpm or lower and you want to accelerate without shifting to 1st gear, and you stomp on the throttle (getting the RPMs to rise as quickly as possible) instead of gently pushing on the throttle (allowing the RPMs to climb slowly). LSPI is most common in small displacement engines equipped with a turbo. In these situations (2nd gear @ 2000rpm or lower) downshifting to 1st gear is highly recommended.

Sadly, the HTHS results are not shown/posted for every oil, which is extremely frustrating. But it is a very important detail to look for.

For context, ILSAC GF-5 was introduced back in 2010 and the FA20 was introduced in 2012, meaning that the oils you could run were broader in terms of viscosity.

Whenever ILSAC GF-7 is introduced, you'll see engines that do not list ILSAC GF-6 oils as 'recommended.'

----

Small update. The LSPI example given applies to all gears, not just 2nd gear.

 

[Jacques]

I did my first oil change at like 700 miles on my 2025.
I got a 12 pack of Purolator Boss filters.
Oil choice is HPL's Premium Plus PCMO in the 5W-30. Maybe the best oil for the $.

Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil

High Performance Lubricants’ Premium Plus passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. When compared with our other PCMO product lines this series takes advantage of high quality PAO delivering superb pour points as...

www.advlubrication.com

 

[bunterhiden]

I did my first oil change at like 700 miles on my 2025.
I got a 12 pack of Purolator Boss filters.
Oil choice is HPL's Premium Plus PCMO in the 5W-30. Maybe the best oil for the $.

Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil

High Performance Lubricants’ Premium Plus passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. When compared with our other PCMO product lines this series takes advantage of high quality PAO delivering superb pour points as...

www.advlubrication.com

Are you tracking you GRCon a regular basis to run 5W-30?
HPL is a boutique oil blender that had been discussed on BITOG and it has high % PAO and robust additive package. However,
I don't see API certification donut on their product packing so there is potential engine warranty issue if something goes wrong.

 

[Jacques]

Are you tracking you GRCon a regular basis to run 5W-30?
HPL is a boutique oil blender that had been discussed on BITOG and it has high % PAO and robust additive package. However,
I don't see API certification donut on their product packing so there is potential engine warranty issue if something goes wrong.

True. The cost of certification would put a small company out of business.
The oil is far superior to any "off the shelf" oil one can buy.
I will probably never track the car, but if I do, I'll keep it at like 80%.
I have an old tricked out Honda that I have tracked a few times at ORP.

If these folks use HPL, and I have seen test results and the lab etc. on the motor oil geek's channel, I have total trust in the product.

Race Teams | High Performance Lubricants

 

[Jacques]

Venturing a guess here is that the G16E-GTS was designed with the ILSAC GF-6B standard in mind, whereas the FA20/FA24 was designed before the ILSAC GF-6A/B requirements were put in place (ie. 2020).

"The ILSAC GF-6B standard is characterized by:

• no backward compatibility with older engines
• greater ability to mitigate the LSPI phenomenon (Low Speed Pre-Ignition)
• good economy of engine operation (VIF tests)

This standard is only applicable in SAE 0W-16 viscosity with a minimum HTHS = 2.4"

7 stricter quality criteria for ILSAC GF-6 - the latest quality specification for engine oils.

Typically, car users distinguish engine oils by their viscosity (e.g. 5W-30, 0W-20 or 5W-40), considering this parameter as a quality indicator. This is not a sufficient factor to justify the compatibility of the oil with the engine. That's why quality standards are list...

totalenergies-eng.prowly.com

BTW - the higher the HTHS in the oil the better.

LSPI most commonly happens in situations like you're in 2nd gear at 2000rpm or lower and you want to accelerate without shifting to 1st gear, and you stomp on the throttle (getting the RPMs to rise as quickly as possible) instead of gently pushing on the throttle (allowing the RPMs to climb slowly). LSPI is most common in small displacement engines equipped with a turbo. In these situations (2nd gear @ 2000rpm or lower) downshifting to 1st gear is highly recommended.

Sadly, the HTHS results are not shown/posted for every oil, which is extremely frustrating. But it is a very important detail to look for.

For context, ILSAC GF-5 was introduced back in 2010 and the FA20 was introduced in 2012, meaning that the oils you could run were broader in terms of viscosity.

Whenever ILSAC GF-7 is introduced, you'll see engines that do not list ILSAC GF-6 oils as 'recommended.'

----

Small update. The LSPI example given applies to all gears, not just 2nd gear.

Here's one for you. HTHS kicks ass with HPL.

 

[Jacques]

Are you tracking you GRCon a regular basis to run 5W-30?
HPL is a boutique oil blender that had been discussed on BITOG and it has high % PAO and robust additive package. However,
I don't see API certification donut on their product packing so there is potential engine warranty issue if something goes wrong.

BTW, if there was an issue, they would have to prove it was oil related.
I'm truly not worried. I only worry about keeping my new engine protected in the best fashion possible.

This very short video is NOT about Restore & Protect, it just was on the screen at the moment. I also run 0W-20 in place of 0W-8 in our new Crown.

 

[bunterhiden]

True. The cost of certification would put a small company out of business.
The oil is far superior to any "off the shelf" oil one can buy.
I will probably never track the car, but if I do, I'll keep it at like 80%.
I have an old tricked out Honda that I have tracked a few times at ORP.

If these folks use HPL, and I have seen test results and the lab etc. on the motor oil geek's channel, I have total trust in the product.

Race Teams | High Performance Lubricants

I just use readily available "off the shelf" oil and change every 3-3.5K since a significant amount of my driving is in city traffic. I have used GTL Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20, which was also highly rated by the motor oil geek. Right now, my GRC is running GTMO 0W-20 from complimentary ToyotaCare and the oil is supplied by ExxonMobil and I believe it is a hydrocracked group III blend. Plenty of VOA and UOA show that GTMO 0W-20 is a good oil. Frankly, any 0W-20 oils that is certified API SP/ ILSAC GF-6 will be plenty good for street driving in GRC. Just don't extend beyond the recommended 5K interval.

I just don't understand those AMSOIL fanbois who tout going 15K+ on their superior and pricy oil.
Would these folks prefer to shower only twice a week using expensive bar soap?😂 I rather shower daily with store bought Irish Spring.

 

[Jacques]

I just use readily available "off the shelf" oil and change every 3-3.5K since a significant amount of my driving is in city traffic. I have used GTL Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20, which was also highly rated by the motor oil geek. Right now, my GRC is running GTMO 0W-20 from complimentary ToyotaCare and the oil is supplied by ExxonMobil and I believe it is a hydrocracked group III blend. Plenty of VOA and UOA show that GTMO 0W-20 is a good oil. Frankly, any 0W-20 oils that is certified API SP/ ILSAC GF-6 will be plenty good for street driving in GRC. Just don't extend beyond the recommended 5K interval.

I just don't understand those AMSOIL fanbois who tout going 15K+ on their superior and pricy oil.
Would these folks prefer to shower only twice a week using expensive bar soap?😂 I rather shower daily with store bought Irish Spring.

Yes, good points. Main thing is change often! Ultra Platinum is good.
Your OCI is a good one. 5K is a long time for these engines.
The HPL oils are on par, or maybe even better than AMSOIL.
Some folks are doing oil analysis and seeing how far they can go.
I'd rather just change it sooner.
Like you say, main thing is a good API SP and ILSAC GF-6, and change often, or you in trouble!

 

[wheelhaus]

Yes, good points. Main thing is change often!
Some folks are doing oil analysis and seeing how far they can go.
I'd rather just change it sooner.
Like you say, main thing is a good API SP and ILSAC GF-6, and change often, or you in trouble!

There’s too much FUD, hearsay, and opinion surrounding oil.
My last oil report showed the oil was perfectly healthy after 5k and Blackstone recommended 7k for the next change. I’m not trying to penny pinch or tell others what to do, but working with factual data is far more valuable than arbitrary reasoning.

 

[apyao]

On a different car platform I ran numerous UOAs with Blackstone over multiple different oil types (0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 — the only commonality was that they all met the car manufacturer’s certification) and there was never a single OMG report despite multiple track days. (The only anomaly was Motul 5W-40 which for some odd reason had a tendency to shear down to 30 weight.)
My conclusion was that based on the data, it did not make an iota of a difference what oil I ran. And like wheelhaus, Blackstone kept encouraging me to lengthen my OCIs.