[wheelhaus]

Wires are all tucked away nicely, and given that it's just the OEM power, it's not likely to have enough amperage to cause any sparks or anything. Hopefully!

Amp draw is determined by the load, not the source. If you're not popping a fuse, you're probably OK, but I hate to use that as a metric for electrical safety. 8ga wire is the definition of overkill though lol

I remember in the 86, the horn's power circuit went through the ECU or something ridiculous, so it would require a relay and additional wiring to power any aftermarket horn safely.

 

[Jacques]

Amp draw is determined by the load, not the source. If you're not popping a fuse, you're probably OK, but I hate to use that as a metric for electrical safety. 8ga wire is the definition of overkill though lol

I remember in the 86, the horn's power circuit went through the ECU or something ridiculous, so it would require a relay and additional wiring to power any aftermarket horn safely.

From oil to horns. That's a drift
I think the factory horn is cute. I'll leave mine alone.
I certainly wouldn't put two horns in front of the radiator to mess up the air flow as I have seen done!

 

[wheelhaus]

Oh yeah I guess this is the oil thread lol

 

[primepwnage]

Absolutely they are using 0w characteristics for good economy over longevity

 

[Wsidr1]

Absolutely they are using 0w characteristics for good economy over longevity

It's reportedly about reducing emissions by improving cold start engine performance to help meet government regs. Since the wear which occurs on cold start has been well documented, and the lower viscosity will reduce that cold start wear, seems like it may be accomplishing both.

I'm not near knowledgeable enough to know where the point of diminishing returns is on wear/emissions reduction for cold starts vs possible increased wear at higher temps, but...

my plan is 0W-20 in October-May and 5W-30 the rest of the year with a 3500-4000 mile OCI. Oil brand will vary but always meet Toyota specs. Right now I have a case of Penz Plt Plus because it was on sale on Amazon a while back.

Since the filter comparisons I've read show Toyota has prioritized filter media throughput when oil is cold versus micron size, and I agree with the papers on cold start wear being a major nemesis, I'll be using Toyota filters.

Just my plan and I definitely don't fault others for having a different view since this topic is so broad. I like reading everyone's rationales.

 

[Jacques]

It's reportedly about reducing emissions by improving cold start engine performance to help meet government regs. Since the wear which occurs on cold start has been well documented, and the lower viscosity will reduce that cold start wear, seems like it may be accomplishing both.

I'm not near knowledgeable enough to know where the point of diminishing returns is on wear/emissions reduction for cold starts vs possible increased wear at higher temps, but...

my plan is 0W-20 in October-May and 5W-30 the rest of the year with a 3500-4000 mile OCI. Oil brand will vary but always meet Toyota specs. Right now I have a case of Penz Plt Plus because it was on sale on Amazon a while back.

Since the filter comparisons I've read show Toyota has prioritized filter media throughput when oil is cold versus micron size, and I agree with the papers on cold start wear being a major nemesis, I'll be using Toyota filters.

Just my plan and I definitely don't fault others for having a different view since this topic is so broad. I like reading everyone's rationales.

Most wear is in the cylinder bores, not bearings. The pistons need to warm up to operating temp. as soon as possible.
To achieve the least wear, don't idle the engine to warm it up. No matter how cold, just drive, but don't go hard. Drive EASY until the engine warms up.
Where I live it can get below 0 F a few times a winter, but most often in the 20 F range. I NEVER idle the engines to warm up. If you do that, too much fuel will get in the oil because cold cylinders don't seal well. Too much fuel dilution will wear everything more.
So in the end, it's about cold cylinder wear, and not bearings at all.
I run a super high quality 5W-30 in my GRC, and you should too.
This oil may be some of the best known to man.

Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil

High Performance Lubricants’ Premium Plus passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. When compared with our other PCMO product lines this series takes advantage of high quality PAO delivering superb pour points as...

www.advlubrication.com

 

[Wsidr1]

Most wear is in the cylinder bores, not bearings. The pistons need to warm up to operating temp. as soon as possible.
To achieve the least wear, don't idle the engine to warm it up. No matter how cold, just drive, but don't go hard. Drive EASY until the engine warms up.
Where I live it can get below 0 F a few times a winter, but most often in the 20 F range. I NEVER idle the engines to warm up. If you do that, too much fuel will get in the oil because cold cylinders don't seal well. Too much fuel dilution will wear everything more.
So in the end, it's about cold cylinder wear, and not bearings at all.
I run a super high quality 5W-30 in my GRC, and you should too.
This oil may be some of the best known to man.

Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil

High Performance Lubricants’ Premium Plus passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. When compared with our other PCMO product lines this series takes advantage of high quality PAO delivering superb pour points as...

www.advlubrication.com

Ok. I never mentioned bearings vs cylinders, but I don't disagree with you. Except I'll stick with the 0W-20 in Winter.

Otherwise, I agree with your comments.

 

[Jacques]

Ok. I never mentioned bearings vs cylinders, but I don't disagree with you. Except I'll stick with the 0W-20 in Winter.

Otherwise, I agree with your comments.

5W is good for -22 F, so for most a 5W-30 gonna be fine all year long.
If it was much much colder, then a 0W would be smart without a block heater.