[CSM]

Got you. The others call for 104 ft lbs if you want to adjust. I am only seeing four bolts, though. Not six for attaching the subframe to the body.

Can you link to what you are referencing? I've tried to find a diagram online but have come up short

 

[Gaijin-San]

Can you link to what you are referencing? I've tried to find a diagram online but have come up short

It is from the repair manual which I've attached. It looks like there is four bolts for the subframe mounting and then two others for the lower control arm that go vertically through the subframe (those are 92 ft lbs).

 

[CSM]

It is from the repair manual which I've attached. It looks like there is four bolts for the subframe mounting and then two others for the lower control arm that go vertically through the subframe (those are 92 ft lbs).

Thanks. These are the two that were barely torqued for me

 

[NickW3]

Planning on checking my subframe bolts to see if they’re loose like yours, but what’s the proper torque all 6 of the 19mm bolts should be? I can’t figure it out after reading this thread and the repair manual. Too many numbers thrown around lol

 

[CSM]

Planning on checking my subframe bolts to see if they’re loose like yours, but what’s the proper torque all 6 of the 19mm bolts should be? I can’t figure it out after reading this thread and the repair manual. Too many numbers thrown around lol

I torqued them all to 70 ft*lbs. I found the spec for the GR Yaris so I just used that.

 

[NickW3]

I torqued them all to 70 ft*lbs. I found the spec for the GR Yaris so I just used that.

Sounds good, thanks!

 

[CSM]

Sounds good, thanks!

Let us know what you find!

 

[NickW3]

I checked all mine and they’re all at least 70ft-lbs because none of them turned.

On another note; I don’t know if you’ve seen the other thread about loose shock tower bolts, but I checked mine and they were all fine. I guess my car was properly built luckily lol

 

[CSM]

I checked all mine and they’re all at least 70ft-lbs because none of them turned.

On another note; I don’t know if you’ve seen the other thread about loose shock tower bolts, but I checked mine and they were all fine. I guess my car was properly built luckily lol

Yeah, my shock Tower bolts were also not torqued to spec but it didn't resolve my clunking. Glad your subframe was all good

 

[hatsunearu]

The 6 bolts are all different torque. The one in the rear highlighted in yellow by CSM should be 104 ftlb.

This diagram is so hilariously complex.

 

[hatsunearu]

It is from the repair manual which I've attached. It looks like there is four bolts for the subframe mounting and then two others for the lower control arm that go vertically through the subframe (those are 92 ft lbs).

the "four bolts":

From the removal instructions:

From the installation instructions:

Looks like it should be 104 ftlb.

The "engine moving control rod" is the official name for the pitch mount/rear motor mount that people talk about. 125 ftlb is the torque to put that onto the subframe, not to the engine.

LCA bolts:

It's probably a good idea to tighten every one of these bolts every now and then like the service manual says.

 

[CSM]

Good find! I'll go and retorque them next oil change

 

[hatsunearu]

Just tightened my front subframe while I was in for an oil change. I did the red, pink and green bolts. My car has 5300 miles with a few autocrosses, one track day, a few ski trips and a few mountain runs in it. They were all very slightly loose, but not a concerning amount (within the margin of error of my torque wrench imo). They also required a counterhold which I didn't realize until midway through, which made me think whether it was actually loose or if the bolt was just spinning.

I made that diagram because it's hilariously hard to read the original one from the service manual.
Disclaimer: I did my best but I may be wrong, please double check against the service manual.

Note: some of these bolts require a counterhold, and it needs to be a wrench not a socket.
If you don't, it will just hopelessly spin around, go nowhere, and destroy the paint on your subframe.
On my 2024 MY car, the red, green and pink bolts had 19mm bolts and nuts. The other ones I didn't get to, but they looked bigger.
Use the biggest 1/2" torque wrench you can find, you will need the leverage. I used a 250 ftlb torque wrench.

*: this bolt is located behind a through-hole through the lower control arm, and is located higher in the Z axis. there are "wings" in this subframe that connect to the body, and this bolt interfaces on that wing. Use a long extension through the LCA hole and tighten it.
†: these are front lower control arm bolts, but they go in the "X" direction as opposed to all the other bolts, which go in the "Z" direction. You won't have access to it from under the car.
§: this fastens the "pitch mount", i.e. the engine to the subframe. I didn't tighten this since it was such a high torque value so I didn't figure it would loosen.

For a "fun fact" note, the 104 ftlb bolts connect the subframe to the chassis, 92 ftlb and 177 ftlb bolts connect the lower control arm to the subframe, 98 ftlb the subframe to the steering rack.

 

[wheelhaus]

Thanks for this! About as clear as could possible get.

 

[hatsunearu]

Oh, I also put this stuff on the bolts:

Amazon.com

The stuff hardens to a brittle state so if the bolt starts moving, it will crack and be very evident. Make sure to have the goop touch the subframe, the washer, and the bolt head. You can spin the bolt without the washer moving, which would defeat the purpose of the indicator.

You can see I made that mistake in the old mark. It actually didn't crack at all on this bolt as a result. And you can see how much I had to tighten (though since I didn't counterhold on this one, it might be more than reality)

 

[CSM]

@hatsunearu gets the GRC Forum user of the year award! good stuff !!!!!!!!!