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I have seen those run extensively in road racing application, tbd offroad? Looking for a durable wheel without it drastically changing the driving characteristics of the car
RPF1 are popular because they are light & affordable but they are not the strongest wheel. while fine for most uses I don't think they would do so well off-road. though Enkei does make a "truck" version called the RPT1 that looks very similar & should be "bomb-proof" (assuming they offer a compatible fitment/size).
 
Also, someone said the rpf1 won't clear the calipers.

Of course, that person just said 17", they didn't include width, or offset. They could have tried to fit some 17x7.5 48 offset for all I know.
When I had RPF1's it was the diameter of the inside of the barrel that was really close to the calipers, not the backside of the face. Width and offset wouldn't have changed that.
 
So these seem to be a cheap lightweight option that should clear (they clear the GRY brakes and those are the same).
Konig hypergrams in 17x9 with either a +25 or +35 offset at around 17-18lbs per wheel.
At about $1000 for a set of 4, pretty affordable. Relatively well known brand of wheels, don't know how they would hold up to track duty though.

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I think most would prefer something in the realm of stock width (17x8 to 17x8.5). Narrower, down to say 7" would improve snow/ice capabilities but a much smaller audience there.

Those looking to street/track and targeting weight savings will probably focus on a 17x9
 
So these seem to be a cheap lightweight option that should clear (they clear the GRY brakes and those are the same).
Konig hypergrams in 17x9 with either a +25 or +35 offset at around 17-18lbs per wheel.
At about $1000 for a set of 4, pretty affordable. Relatively well known brand of wheels, don't know how they would hold up to track duty though.

View attachment 9570
View attachment 9571
Mag
So these seem to be a cheap lightweight option that should clear (they clear the GRY brakes and those are the same).
Konig hypergrams in 17x9 with either a +25 or +35 offset at around 17-18lbs per wheel.
At about $1000 for a set of 4, pretty affordable. Relatively well known brand of wheels, don't know how they would hold up to track duty though.

View attachment 9570
View attachment 9571
Magnus I believe they will weigh more, like 8.37kg.
 

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Asking for a friend.

For a 17" wheel do you all prefer something narrower than stock or would a 17x8.5" be ideal?

Again, just asking for a friend!
My friend in Autocross SCCA DS Class Rules would love a 17x8.5 +30 5x114.3 at ~17lb weight that clears the brake calipers.
My friend in Winter/Rallycross would love a 17x8 white-colored rally wheel.
 
I'm a newbie to aftermarket wheels, just wondering which is better a lower offset number or a higher offset and why?
Is that what determines whether the wheel will clear the brake calipers?
The lower the offset would just be for looks bro... So, just like circuit edition only owners, you would be a poser if you went with lower offset wheels. Higher offset wheels on the other hand are for guys who care about performance, you know the same guys who would only go for the core trim of the GRC.






🤣😂🤣😂
I kid I kid....
 
My friend in Autocross SCCA DS Class Rules would love a 17x8.5 +30 5x114.3 at ~17lb weight that clears the brake calipers.
My friend in Winter/Rallycross would love a 17x8 white-colored rally wheel.
Any reason why your Autocross friend prefers an ET30 offset rather than going as low as the class allows?

I'm a newbie to aftermarket wheels, just wondering which is better a lower offset number or a higher offset and why?
Is that what determines whether the wheel will clear the brake calipers?
When it comes to wheel offset, you don't want to look at it in a vacuum. "Better" or "worse" is going to be dependent on factors the chassis, the brakes, the wheel itself, intended goals with the car, etc.

Wheel offset is strictly the measurement between the mounting point of the wheel and the centerline of the wheel. Typically we're looking at the wheel offset to determine how inboard or outboard a given wheel will sit on a vehicle. With every other measurement being otherwise identical, a lower offset wheel will sit more outboard (toward the fender) than a comparable higher offset wheel.

Example: An 18x9" ET30 wheel sits 10mm farther away from the suspension than an 18x9" ET40 wheel.

As for clearance, let's say that a wheel was hitting the spring or some other component of the suspension. You may want to run a spacer or switch to a lower offset wheel to push it away from the suspension components. On the inverse, if there was rubbing on the fenders then you may want to switch to a higher offset wheel to keep the wheel more inboard.

With brakes, sometimes a lower offset can provide more brake clearance, but that isn't a guarantee. Some wheel designs can actually limit brake clearance with their lower offset versions.

This is all without getting into class rules that may require a wheel to be within a specific offset range.

Naturally, it's difficult to give a proper lecture on wheel offset in one forum post. The one takeaway I'd you get from this is that you just have to find the wheel that works best for your needs, offset included. Hope this all helps!
 
Any reason why your Autocross friend prefers an ET30 offset rather than going as low as the class allows?
As another DS car, +23 would be great, as long as it cleared everything with room to spare. We picked up a set of wheels that barely work at +35, but can run a 12mm hubcentric spacer to correct. This allows us to play with track width as a turn in tuning mechanism since rear packaging is significantly easier. Downside is they weigh more than our 18x10 volks.

getting the 275/35/17 Nankang to fit would be the goal (we had a set of 255/17 khumos sitting from the STU car, but they run narrower than our 245 yoks) my fear of maxxed +23 rear would be the plastic overfender that has a flat lip. Sucks for ST in the future too.
 
As another DS car, +23 would be great, as long as it cleared everything with room to spare. We picked up a set of wheels that barely work at +35, but can run a 12mm hubcentric spacer to correct. This allows us to play with track width as a turn in tuning mechanism since rear packaging is significantly easier. Downside is they weigh more than our 18x10 volks.

getting the 275/35/17 Nankang to fit would be the goal (we had a set of 255/17 khumos sitting from the STU car, but they run narrower than our 245 yoks) my fear of maxxed +23 rear would be the plastic overfender that has a flat lip. Sucks for ST in the future too.
Test ran the 255 setup this weekend, OEM studs weren't long enough for the 12mm spacer, but ARP on the way to solve. with the 5mm spacer, miles of room for the 255s and clearance in barrel for wheel weights up front.
 
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