Had my GRC for a year and since it is my first Toyota, not sure if this is normal or not. Had tons of cars with clutches but the GRC seems soft for a performance car. If you push it too hard, it smokes the clutch a bit. Never had this happen in a Porsche or Audi, but if the suspension is loaded an you dump the clutch it it has a hard time engaging fully. Anyone else feel this a a weak point?
Thoughts on The GRC Clutch
1 reading
thespyfactory
121 - 140 of 174 Posts
OEM clutch, IMO, as long as you aren’t tuning, is perfectly fine. It likes to be shifted its way, not your own, and again IMO, for a stock clutch, I really like it. Is it as good as my previously owned AP2, which I consider “the“ standard, no, but it’s pretty good. I’ve no worries about reliability and I only drive the GRC in hard cornering. The last thing it is, is a commuter, grocery getter, etc. F all that for this car.
I will be modifying extensively when I feel the time is ready for it. Many cars, I mean many, you have to mod the clutch for additional power. The Golf R is the exact same way and that’s the comparison as it’s an AWD turbo hatch and in the same class. Comparing the GRC to some M Car or something else is fools play. If the OEM clutch bothers you so much, sell the F’in thing and move on with life. I already knew the GRC would be some hefty $ to mod and made peace with it before I bought the car. I knew this years ago with the GR Yaris. It’s nothing new, at all. If you were paying attention you knew all this information years ago. If you didn’t find out until you bought the car that is on you.
I will be modifying extensively when I feel the time is ready for it. Many cars, I mean many, you have to mod the clutch for additional power. The Golf R is the exact same way and that’s the comparison as it’s an AWD turbo hatch and in the same class. Comparing the GRC to some M Car or something else is fools play. If the OEM clutch bothers you so much, sell the F’in thing and move on with life. I already knew the GRC would be some hefty $ to mod and made peace with it before I bought the car. I knew this years ago with the GR Yaris. It’s nothing new, at all. If you were paying attention you knew all this information years ago. If you didn’t find out until you bought the car that is on you.
not sure what all the complains are about as my car anyway has a clutch that feels fantastic. I've had a ton of ppl on here pm and ask my thoughts versus my FK8 type R and as Ive told those ppl, the tranny is better in every which way.
The clutch and tranny feel good to me. I've been driving manuals all my life for about 30 years.
I got to be honest I do like the pedal feel\resistance and engagement is good.
My car is completely stock and its a daily driver and from what I can tell with 3k miles the clutch should be fine on the stock car as a daily driver.
Most are saying if you track or tune the car the clutch will not handle it
I would had like to get FBO (intake, DB and FMIC), but I am afraid even without a tune I will ruin the clutch and I did not find any after market clutch that I like. I would like the car to retain the daily driver feel.
I got to be honest I do like the pedal feel\resistance and engagement is good.
My car is completely stock and its a daily driver and from what I can tell with 3k miles the clutch should be fine on the stock car as a daily driver.
Most are saying if you track or tune the car the clutch will not handle it
I would had like to get FBO (intake, DB and FMIC), but I am afraid even without a tune I will ruin the clutch and I did not find any after market clutch that I like. I would like the car to retain the daily driver feel.
Joined
·
220 Posts
the clutch feels good at 18,500 miles, problem is i hate the throttle delay. I've looked at a datalog and it takes 1 half second of my full throttle input from the pedal to actually translate to the throttle body, sometimes 100 percent of my pedal input only translate to 23 percent. Fuck the clutch, the real piss here is the GOD DAMN THROTTLE CONTROLLER
Joined
·
67 Posts
Gotta love slow responding engines; where you can tap dance on the pedal and see the revs go nowhere. Not everything can be a rotary or a motorcycle engine; but thankfully the GRC engine isn't nearly as bad as some other offenders; Audi looking at you.
Joined
·
205 Posts
Same. At 17,500 miles, my clutch feels pretty good, but it does like to slip more than other clutches I drove in the past 30 years. So far the worst I cooked the GRC clutch was by going in reverse, uphill, to park the car. The reverse gear is so tall that after I rode the clutch for like 7 seconds to keep from launching the car, I smelled clutch for the next half hour. Also, yeah, laggy throttle controller.
The GRC clutch is not much different (relatively) to other current manual trans vehicles. Since the manufacturers generally don't warranty clutches as they are a wear item, they prefer to have a limit to the amount of shock the driveline, which is under warranty, is made to withstand. This is why most vehicles have a fluid flow restrictor in the clutch hydraulic line or buried in the slave cylinder, or they mount a fluid dashpot to the master cylinder (Honda). GM calls theirs a "peak torque limiter" in Corvettes. It is impossible to get a 100% full-beans launch with the newer cars without first doing some sort of modification. It's the first thing I removed in every BMW I have ever owned.
That said, even the somewhat milder launches will cause just a little more clutch slip than many would like due to the controlled maximum rate of engagement. While helping the trans, transfer case, diffs, driveshafts and axles survive (and greatly reduce warranty claims), the clutch is offered up as a sacrifice that will inevitably run hotter and wear faster instead. For typical daily driving, this goes largely unnoticed by design. It only becomes evident when the driver starts to ask a bit more from the car.
tl;dr: It's a mechanical nanny.
Man, I thought I was the only one feeling like that reverse gear is bit tall. Feels like I could exceed a few speed limits when I get the clutch fully out and any accel pedal pressure at all.
Maybe Toyota thinking...:
Joined
·
348 Posts
umm...yeah
Joined
·
348 Posts
Here is an interesting photo of the replacement Pressure Plate from Toyota direct
Pressure Plate from Toyota Direct - $186
Clutch and Pressure Plate - $271
Flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch - $1255
Aftermarket is pretty competitive for the replacement and upgrade
My favorite 8K for Morizo rims Morizo ridiculous
The carbon fiber roof is mind boggling 14K Carbon Fiber roof
Circuit edition hood is pretty reasonable all of a sudden LOL @ $800
Pressure Plate from Toyota Direct - $186
Clutch and Pressure Plate - $271
Flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch - $1255
Aftermarket is pretty competitive for the replacement and upgrade
My favorite 8K for Morizo rims Morizo ridiculous
The carbon fiber roof is mind boggling 14K Carbon Fiber roof
Circuit edition hood is pretty reasonable all of a sudden LOL @ $800
'94 VFR 750, '04 SV 650, '22 Bronco BD, '22 CT5-V Blackwing, '24 GR Corolla
Joined
·
39 Posts
I think you're confusing "luxury" with "performance." Do you see any performance cars in the Lexus line-up at the moment??
Good info. You're right, the hood seems reasonable when lumped in with the ME/CE other items.
Funny, next to the wheels it says "people also bought", implying somebody actually ordered them at that price!
Joined
·
211 Posts
The flywheel does not come with the pressure plate or clutch. So over $1500 for all..
Joined
·
246 Posts
Can you provide any tips or pointers for the clutch replacement. I am needing to replace mine since it slip a bit at higher RPM (post tune on ethanol only). I think I have the general idea down and I missing any major steps:
- Remove CV axles
- Remove transfer case
- drop Subrame
- Drop transmission
2024 Onyx GRC Premium, 2003 Onyx IS300, 1989 Ice Blue Supra Turbo
Joined
·
399 Posts
Transfercase cannot be removed with the trans still in the car, after dropping subframe, the entire trans/transfer comes down as a unit.
Joined
·
246 Posts
That the part that seems unclear. The only video that shows the process has the transfer case removed before subframe (removed from transmission and set aside). It would make this job a lot easier if the trans can be dropped with the transfer case attached. Is it possible to do all the work without removing the transfer case from the transmission? I don't see any reason why it cant but the repair manual (posted on the forum) also states to remove the transfer case from transmission when dropping the transmission to get access to the clutch.
It should be noted the one video he was trying to remove the transmission without dropping the subframe at first so I wonder if the purpose was with that intent. And the Toyota repair manual states to remove subframe but only shows instructions for removing the pitch mount from the subframe. I did find a second video where the guy doesn't give a step by step and he drops the transmission with the subframe loosely attached (also appears he removed the transfer case from transmission, assumed he had it propped up on the subframe.
This is going to be my first clutch change on a transaxle, I have done it a couple times on a rwd (my 85 celica and helped my brother on his 88 c1500 chevy).
Video 1 (more in depth walk through):
Video 2:
121 - 140 of 174 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
