Front suspension is a McPherson strut style. It's used on a LOT of cars for simplicity and durability, and it also leaves a ton of room for FWD drive trains. But, it typically doesn't add negative camber as it compresses, it can actually add positive camber in many cases. Rear is multi-link, so some amount of increased neg camber is expected, additional -.1 or -.2 isn't unreasonable.
More negative camber in the rear will increase rear stability mid turn compared to the front, but can result in understeer at the limit. -2.0 front camber is a good starting point if you're actually using it, even a daily can benefit from moderate camber if the driver gets after it from time to time, but its impossible to recommend a number because a sporting alignment is case-by-case. A starting point is one thing, but dialing suspension is a cyclical process, including damper tuning. Camber is meant to aid grip mid corner, we all (I hope) know that much. By itself It actually doesn't affect tire wear much, until it's combined with toe. Toe can introduce handling nuances, for instance, adding stability or aiding turn in on the front, or aiding/resisting rotation on weight shift in the rear. But toe is what accelerates tire wear because it forces the tire to grind across the asphalt at an angle- the negative camber just focuses that grinding onto the inner shoulder. Toyota may have added toe to address handling nuances for one reason or another, but it sacrifices tire wear as a lot of owners have found out. Dialing it closer to zero can help reduce tire wear and help define a neutral state to begin addressing what the driver really needs or prefers.
This will really require someone to have experience with both to comment on the differences in feel and effectiveness. From what I know, they're both digressive, along with Fortune and I believe MCS (not sure about other common brand offerings, but if they hide data, I don't really trust them). Digressive is the opposite of progressive, on the other side of linear. It just means the damping forces are reduced the faster the piston is forced through the oil. The faster the shaft speed, the more the damping resistance opens up. This is done with a complicated piston shape and shim stacks, is highly tunable, and is the biggest factor in how a shock performs. Digressive damping is usually desirable for a sports car because the suspension can feel firm, sporty, and responsive in the handling department, but also soak up bumps. Ohlins has managed to master this arena and made a proven reputation for themselves, partly by their own in house products, but also for the amount of customizability and fine tuning through their network of boutique tuning shops that get into really intimate levels of knowledge for specific platforms. As far as their DFV system, it's just a simple oil circuit through the center shaft that affects low speed movement. The firmer or softer feel is just a variable flow on this single oil path. But, the key is how it's tuned (port sizes, piston variants, etc) and how these oil flow systems work together to create something that's responsive and seamless. It works, and it works well. I'm not sure how Annex handles this and I have no personal experience with them, but I expect/hope they have a similar system of high speed/low speed integration that produces the magic of sporty-firm-but-still-compliant ride. If people are commenting on how good they feel in the turns, but also their ability to soak up bumps, then they have something that functions in a similar manner. Choosing between the two really boils down to a matter of personal preference. They're both fully tunable, so you're down to either Ohlins pedigree, or Annex young engineering-first efforts to build a reputation. Either option can be re-valved to change their damping curves to suit your needs.
Beyond that, it's down to personal anecdotal accounts. For instance, I had a personal experience installing Fortune 500s on a friend's Focus ST that left me wanting, a lot. Zero data and everything was loose out of the box, so we had the car on and off jacks about half a dozen times to dial ride height, preload and damper length. The instructions also required use of a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to set the lockrings. I felt dirty after that install... A friend with LOTS of track experience in more cars than I can count, both modified and stock, competes in TT and is an instructor, was pretty dissatisfied with Annex. He felt they were way too harsh and warned me to avoid them at all costs. Ohlins R&T has some history of some odd damping choices for some platforms, with damping way too stiff for the platform, or way too soft. I've received messages warning to stay away from Ohlins... So, there's no guarantees. But, with either, you can work with them after the fact to get the tuning where you want it, even after you've had them installed for a while and developed a taste for what you like and don't like about them. Honestly, that's where the magic really lives.
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