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Repair Manual

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13K views 24 replies 18 participants last post by  hotpig  
#1 · (Edited)
Exactly a year ago @noogie created a thread with a zip file that contained the repair manual. Some had issues extracting the folder and all the files were in either HTM or HTML format. Some of the folder names couldn't be modified either.

I spent some time converting the files to PDF and uploaded everything to Google Drive. A lot more user friendly.

Repair manual: Click here
 
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#4 · (Edited)
I have found it helpful with automotive repair manuals is always have both a digital and a hard copy on hand. While PDFs are great for quick searches, having a printed version can be a lifesaver when working in tight spaces or dealing with greasy hands. Also, make sure to back up those digital files on multiple platforms like Google Drive and an external hard drive to avoid losing them.
 
#7 ·
Nice work G16EGTS! PDFs make navigation easier. @Heeltoe the Japanese versions often have slight differences in wiring, especially for compliance with their local regulations. If you are diving into wiring diagrams I would say cross-checking with local Japanese forums or grabbing a region-specific manual to avoid errors.

Always keep a small laptop or tablet handy in the garage it is a game changer for quick digital lookups without printing everything.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Nice work converting those to PDF, G16EGTS is more user-friendly for everyone. @Heeltoe, I second @Owenson; the Japanese versions can have minor variations, especially in areas like wiring for DRLs or safety systems. Cross-referencing with a region-specific manual or forum is a smart move.
From my experience I have found having a rugged tablet with a stylus to access digital repair manuals makes garage tasks more efficient, especially when space is tight or hands are dirty. Best of luck.
 
#9 ·
Thank you so much for much for posting this! There are a bunch of files and I am wondering if anyone can identify which file would relate to oil changes, specifically the torque specs for the drain plug and oil filter? I have read online that the specs ar 30 lb-ft and 14 lb-ft for the drain plug and filter respectively but would love to actually see confirmation in a shop manual.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Good question. Those torque specs sound about right, but it's always best to confirm with the manual to avoid any issues. If no one points you to the exact file, try searching for terms like "engine lubrication" or "oil service" in the PDF files. From my experience, I always double-check torque specs with both the manual and a reputable source before tightening stripped threads or an over-tightened filter can be a pain to deal with.
 
#11 ·
Good question. Those torque specs sound about right, but it's always best to confirm with the manual to avoid any issues. If no one points you to the exact file, try searching for terms like "engine lubrication" or "oil service" in the PDF files. From my experience, I always double-check torque specs with both the manual and a reputable source before tightening stripped threads or an over-tightened filter can be a pain to deal with.
Agreed; no messing with torque specs! I went by my dealer and they printed the appropriate page which confirmed the torque specs. The tech agreed that it was a shame there was no Toyota or Haines paper shop manual for the car as the online database is not intuitive.
 
#14 ·
Perhaps a dumb question but when I go click on a file and it brings me to the website, all of the important info is covered with an "info" button. If I click that it redirects me to TIS and I have to pay a subscription for that service. Is everyone just paying for a subscription for this information?
 
#24 ·
This is similar to searching for the finest sources for stolen parts, but keep in mind that many of the ones you find online are bootlegs of pricey copyrighted materials. For instance, the repair manuals for Audi, BMW, and Mercedes are not inexpensive, and a complete FSM for a recent Lexus is a five-volume book that is roughly a foot thick and costs upwards of $700.

Finding FSMs, even to purchase legally, is practically hard for some automakers (newer Honda/Acura).
 
#25 ·
Yes it is hard.

But the trend these days is, they want you to just go to the dealer.

Failing that, or for dealer techs, they'll likely have a laptop on a cart nearby at all times, logged in to TIS, that also runs GTS+ (which replaces the handheld tester and later Techstream) which requires a TIS subscription anyway (plus a $1700 interface cable) and just pull up the page on the part they're working on. Don't forget all the "calibrations" we need to do after replacing some parts. Insert the equivalent of above for automaker of your choice.

Gone are the days of finding a FSM on ebay and get it for only $85 like the one for my 99. But it didn't include auto trans internals, electrical diagrams, or collision repair; they are all separate.

But, at least for Toyota you can pay $25 for 2 days plus rest of the second day. Buy at the right time (ie as early in the day as possible) and you have almost 3 days to pull as much as you can. It takes determination, dedication, preparedness, and maybe a little hackery because you need to dig into the document tree on the left to help keep track of what you already pulled. Will be very important for RMs simply because of the quantity. Make sure you set your model year and production date range (PDR) correctly. (For my 24 GR produced 9/24 I have to use MY25 and PDR 4/24-9/24 to get the right stuff)

This to say you could get all the info for that recent Lexus for much less than $700.

Support right to DIY repair. Bug your local congresscritters and get some decent laws passed. Beware of big auto lobby.