Just get the standard Toyota filter and properly rated oil

https://www.grcorollaforum.com/threads/first-oil-change.1371/page-12#post-55379

https://www.grcorollaforum.com/threads/various-engine-oil-info.3607/#post-92368

https://www.grcorollaforum.com/threads/various-oil-filter-info.3605/#post-92366

 

 

That guy might want to do a bit of research.

Denso was formerly part of Toyota. It was separated so that Denso could make parts for other manufacturers... That is to say, profit beyond what just Toyota could generate.

"After becoming independent from Toyota Motor, the company was founded as Nippon Denso Co. Ltd."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denso

 

I’ve been using Amsoil since 2011. It’s been my preferred oil for all my vehicles (past and present).

It has consistently ranked #1. Recommended by many tuners and used by many aftermarket companies. Fortune Auto is one example.

I personally won’t ever go with another brand but that’s me. But don’t take my word for it. Their history and reputation speaks for itself.

 

I'm a former AMSOil dealer for nearly 10 years, but I had a strong focus on the technical details - nothing on the sales side honestly.

AMSOil's oils are top notch. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is nearly identical at a fraction of the cost.

Per filters, AMSOil and Royal Purple are identical. Fram's Ultra Synthetic are actually better than AMSOil's EA filters. I thought it was BS at first.

And then you see ISO results for the filters and see that the Fram Ultra Synthetic is no joke, and its HALF the cost of the AMSOil filter.

But, does that mean that I'll never run AMSOil filters? Nah. I'll run a bypass kit. Those bypass filters are f'n incredible! Nothing comes close to those!

 

I'll usually go with Pennzoil or Castrol, whichever is on sale at the time. Factory filter is made by Denso, which you can find at most autoparts stores. Don't overthink it, any of the big brands should be fine.

 

There was a very detailed comparison done on some big youtube channel, where they did multiple testing on numerous oils. Overall winner was amsoil, but it barely beat out Pennzoil ultra platinum. The price difference between the 2 is not worth getting the Amsoil over the Pennzoil IMO. Im gonna stick with the pennzoil ultra Platinum. Plus its more readily available than Amsoil. With filters, im just gonna stick with the OEM one, but not the one for the GR, the slightly longer one (forgot the part number)

 

I think this may be the video you’re referencing:

 

Assuming you're just street driving, any off the shelf synthetic and filter is fine. This engine will go 200k miles easy. People overthink the hell out of this. We're not dealing with some mid 80s Alfa Romeo.

 

I am sure you’ll get different responses regarding this topic.
you’ll have someone who will say just follow the owners manual…. And use the free ones that come with your car. So 5000 miles at Toyota dealership.

On the other hand, you’ll have someone like @moving_target01, who truly believe that you should change oil every 500 miles until 3000.

Truth is probably somewhere in the middle. If you will only do it once before 5000, I’d say pay top dollar and get it done for peace of mind. That can Purolator Boss and Amsoil. If you want to do it 4 or more times, then something a little more in-line with Toyota OEM filter and Pennzoil Ultra platinum. Either choices will not be bad or wrong, just what you’re comfortable with.

 

I know that the method that I suggest is rare.

Total miles: 500 miles, 1500 miles, 3000 miles. No 'normal' person would do 3 oil changes in 3000 miles.

Then again, I don't think that most people concern themselves with oil consumption that might occur 90,000 miles later, as many would've sold the car before then.

 

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and an OEM oil filter.

ANYTHING else will grenade your motor within 20 miles.

 

AMSOIl Break-In oil, Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter. That change was done at 69 miles (not intentional). I have just over 1000 miles now. The engine is still running perfectly fine.

 

^This right here.

 

Honestly it's simple. After five thousand miles of typical use (for the owner), take a sample of the oil and send it to Blackstone for analysis. That should remove any doubt from one's mind.

I sent them my own after roughly 5,000 HARD miles (weekend trip to the mountains and 200 miles flogging around VIR) and they said hey your oil is still in great shape. Both of my aforementioned activities involved sustained engine oil operation above 245°F.

 

 

Super Tech oil!

 

I've got the 0W-20 Advanced Super Tech (20,000 mile variant) in mine right now. It meets requirements all Toyota requirements. I put it in at 1200 miles and am going in early for my 5000 mile service, so I thought I'd experiment a little. I plan to run the Super Tech around 2500 miles. I will send in a sample to Blackstone after running it, and then again after the Toyota oil has been changed back in and run a few thousand miles.

I've been watching temps and oil pressure before and after the change. If anything, it's holding a little more pressure and the temps are the same or a tad lower. Really the variations in the readings are so minimal that they could just be weather/driving parameter related.

Before I get any hate mail, I drive my car fairly easy (I'm old) (<6000rpm) with only occasional WOT. 2500 easy miles with new oil that meets Toyota standards is not gonna harm my engine. If I happen to schedule my track day before the 2500 miles, I'll be pre-track changing the oil again anyway.

 

I break this down into 2 categories.

1. I need this in 2 days or less.

2. I will order everything 2 weeks in advance.

For the '2 days or less' I would go with:
Fram Synthetic Endurance filter
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil

For the 'ordering in advance' I would go with:
Fram Synthetic Endurance filter
AMSOil Signature Series oil

It cannot be ignored that AMSOil products do cost quite a bit more. Are they absolutely the better items to go with? The filter? No. The oil, yes.

The key details are that the Fram Ultra Synthetic captures more particulates, and smaller particulates than AMSOil does.

AMSOil has a much better result in regards to the NOACK volatility test (that determines how much oil burns off at high temperature, like inside the turbo).

https://www.grcorollaforum.com/threads/various-oil-filter-info.3605/

This thread goes into oil filter details.

https://www.grcorollaforum.com/threads/various-engine-oil-info.3607/

This thread goes into oil details.

* Updated the oil filter recommendation * 2024.11.27

 

I break this down into 2 categories.

1. I need this in 2 days or less.

2. I will order everything 2 weeks in advance.

For the '2 days or less' I would go with:
Fram Ultra Synthetic filter
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil

For the 'ordering in advance' I would go with:
Fram Ultra Synthetic filter
AMSOil Signature Series oil

It cannot be ignored that AMSOil products do cost quite a bit more. Are they absolutely the better items to go with? The filter? No. The oil, yes.

The key details are that the Fram Ultra Synthetic captures more particulates, and smaller particulates than AMSOil does.

AMSOil has a much better result in regards to the NOACK volatility test (that determines how much oil burns off at high temperature, like inside the turbo).

https://www.grcorollaforum.com/threads/various-oil-filter-info.3605/

This thread goes into oil filter details.

https://www.grcorollaforum.com/threads/various-engine-oil-info.3607/

This thread goes into oil details.

One thing that caught my attention is that the oil filter from Amsoil is cheaper then Wix XP, Purolator Boss, Mobile1, and K&N. For my other vehicles the Amsoil was always the more expensive option. That doesn't seem ro be the case with the GR. It's $9.85 with membership.

 

I just went to see my friend who works at Toyota. He told me that 0w20 oil for the GR is very thin for how much main bearings clearance there is (0.026-0.049). He said that 5w30 or 10w30 would be much better for those clearances and heat transfer. You think 5w30 is a better choice?

 

Stick to what the manual says.

 

Stick to what the manual says.

Hahahaha. Just like what you’ve seen…. Anything about oil/oil filter, there will be different opinions.
some will say, “Toyota knows what they’re doing….”
Some will say, “you should run a better/heavier oil….”

if you don’t planning on tinker much by yourself, and want to keep warranty intact, “I” would run the recommended spec. If you’re sure you will mod as soon as possible, and can take care of most of the problem yourself or with a good friend, then do whatever you want.

Yay your probably right. There so many different options and never really a clear answer. It's just like when I had my WRX and everyone said to use T6 5w40 instead of 5w30. Ill just stick to 0w20 just to be on the safe side.

 

I normally run 0w-20 with exception to track days. I swap it out for 5w-30. So unless you’re going to track your car, stick with 0w-20.

As far as filters, I run the larger Toyota F1 filter on track days and then switch back to my main filter, the Fram Ultra Synthetic. The larger size though (XG4386).

On track days I personally prioritize flow rate over filtration which is why I run the F1. Although it wouldn’t hurt to run the larger Fram. It’s a balancing act at this point and personal preference.

 

It also depends on the temperatures you're running at. A 0w20 may be perfectly fine for normal daily commuting with oil temps around 200°F, but at much higher temps/load its too thin, such as a track day, ergo a thicker viscosity is preferred. Running a moderately thicker viscosity all the time isn't bad, just causes more fluid friction at lower temps and reduces efficiency.

 

I live in Idaho so we have -40F winters and then 110F summers.The weather switches alot so I wonder if I should do s combination of the two. 5w30 for Spring/Summer and 0w20 for Fall/Winter. And I know for sure im using 5w30 for tracking.

 

I used 5w30 on a +90F track day and the car felt sluggish. Could have been the ambient weather, or the 5w30. I don't know. I've since used 0w20 and I don't plan on tracking on days that are +90F anymore 😂

 

I know these cars suffer from heat soke alot due to how small the engine is. I thought 5w30 would bring the temps down on the track. I saw that savagegeese is running 5w30 instead also. But I the thicker oil have that much of a hit on performance?

 

Big thing I learned about oil today is 100% synthetic vs Full synthetic. Is it true that a full synthetic doesn't even have to be full synthetic call it that? I read that to legally call a oil full synthetic it just has to be 10% synthetic and then the rest could be a mineral oil. But isn't that just a synthetic blend? I know Mobile1, Vavoline, LiqiMoly, and Pennzoil admits this. That would mean the only true 100% synthetic would be Amsoil and Motul?

This just keeps getting more confusing.

 

"Some define “100% synthetic” as motor oil made exclusively from Group IV polyalphaolefin (PAO) base oils. In contrast, they define “full synthetic” as an oil made from Group III base oils."

100% Synthetic Oil vs Full Synthetic Oil: What’s the Difference? - AMSOIL Blog

As long as a motor oil uses any combination of Group III, IV or V base oils, it can be labeled and marketed as a "synthetic" oil.

blog.amsoil.com

It is summarized later in that post, that it is accepted industry standards that any Group III, Group IV or Group V oil can be called either 'full synthetic' or '100% synthetic' - they are interchangeable.

The real difference is the base oil itself, and that is the true root of the question - "what are the properties of that oil?" and not so much "what does the label state/imply?"

As per a blend oil:

"Most blend oils will have a synthetic oil content varying from 10% to as much as 25%."

https://www.olympiajeep.com/compare-the-different-types-of-oil/

That is to state that a Group III oil is not a 'blend' oil, as Group III oils are accepted in the oil industry as full/100% synthetic.

 

Also is Amsoil Signature also worth it if I'm doing my oil changes every 2,500-5,000. For a full oil change its $66 while if I went OE its $46. Is there a big enough difference to justify the $20 dollar difference. Signature has much better protection it says compared to OE but is that only at high mileage?

I know if I wanted to do Pennzoil Ultra Platunim with Purolator Boss filter its $56. I also see alot of people using Motul V300 but that oil is $46 for only 2L also it looks like MTN Dew for some reason. I was also thinking of Kirkland motor oil for 10QT for $39. But like DaleNixon said it might blow up my engine.

 

Also is Amsoil Signature also worth it if I'm doing my oil changes every 2,500-5,000. For a full oil change its $66 while if I went OE its $46. Is there a big enough difference to justify the $20 dollar difference. Signature has much better protection it says compared to OE but is that only at high mileage?

For Amsoil to make all the sense, you need to run it until it breaks down, which is a long time. I had a fully tuned STI years ago. The last Amsoil lab sample I sent to Blackstone for analysis had 10k miles on the OCI. Blackstone analyzed and told me the oil was fine and to go 12k miles for the next oil change. If you are running high quality fully synthetic oil you don’t need to change it at 2500-5000 miles.

 

Crazy. Does that 10k include a track day too? I would to do 2 track days with my is300 on 5w30 but blackstone has given the ultra plat 0w20 the stamp of approval so I'll just keep it 1 track day per OCI 😂

 

Yes. I usually do 2-3 HPDE per year, or used to. I’m bored with our local tracks. Only thing in the whole region I want to do anymore on my bikes or a car is COTA. I couldn’t believe that lab report. 10k miles and told me to keep going.

 

There is a dude on Reddit who drives like 50,000+ miles a year…. I’d love to see what he runs on….

 

That's insane!

 

Day 4.5 - 1000 mile

He had a rav four, 470K in 4 years?

 

That person.

 

That's just as bad as this one guy back in the day on the YarisWorld forum who put over 500k miles on his in 5 years. He had to drive from state to state for his job (which I forget what it actually was).