[3SHIFT]

I changed the chamfer on the screw holes to be a little less, so the screw no longer sits flush, but I was having trouble printing clean edges on FDM without doing so it. I also removed the logo on the back so it's got a forged carbon look from the build plate, instead of unsmooth bridges, I may attempt to add the logo back in with some other filament colors but keep it smooth.
I printed it in transparent black PETG, pretty happy with the current results. I also had to use 2.5mm threaded inserts for FDM, don't know if anyone else had that issue.

 

[WideHippedCorolla]

I LOVE that interest is restarting on this build! CawaGR hooked me up with a couple of his revisions along the way and I found the form to be perfect for my minimalist preferences. I ended up having to give up on it, though, as the bridge between the buttons kept breaking after a few weeks of use. If I were to offer any advice to y’all printing these for the first time, it would be to add greater thickness to the faceplate to reduce the chances of breakage around the buttons.

 

[3SHIFT]

I wonder if PETG being flexible will help it from cracking, I've been using mine for two weeks now no issues. But I'm also pretty gentle on my keys and don't put them in my pocket with other things

 

[GRey]

I LOVE that interest is restarting on this build! CawaGR hooked me up with a couple of his revisions along the way and I found the form to be perfect for my minimalist preferences. I ended up having to give up on it, though, as the bridge between the buttons kept breaking after a few weeks of use. If I were to offer any advice to y’all printing these for the first time, it would be to add greater thickness to the faceplate to reduce the chances of breakage around the buttons.

No worries, for the short-term, I'm solving that problem with materials! I'll be printing a prototype next week (once my filament comes) in PA6-GF, which is a ton stronger than ABS, on top of being glass-fiber reinforced. I've also got a few other materials coming to play with, and I'm going to give the buttons a try in TPU. I don't think that's going to go well with all of the bridging (I can barely get the buttons to print cleanly in ABS), but it's worth a try!

Frankly, I've ordered about $300 in filament and nozzles literally just to play with materials for this key, as I'd really like to get it perfect! Some ideas I have:

- Printing the entire key in ABS, adding another layer or two to the top, and having the GR logo in full color.

- Leaving the GR logo alone, printing the fob in black PA6-GF, and I also have ABS-GF coming in case that doesn't go well.

- Eliminating the GR logo for the cleanest possible print, but that's not my favorite idea. If anything, I'd like to add 'Corolla' in the proper font, as well, and then eventually make a 'Yaris' one.

- Buttons in TPU, as mentioned above, though I plan to eventually change the button structure to act as a gasket, like I mentioned in my other post.

- Potentially having a batch of these CNC machined from aluminum

I think I would be perfectly happy if I could get a perfectly clean print with the PA6-GF, with smooth rounded edges instead of the angular ones, and TPU buttons which act as a gasket. The metal key would just be superfluous, and I would have to engineer around a bunch of other issues with that, like a liner for the board so that the key hardware doesn't get grounded out in the case.

I'm really just getting started here - but once I get them to a point where I'm happy with the prints overall, I may start offering to sell them for the cost of materials, shipping, and a nominal fee (literally a few dollars) to cover wear-and-tear and time. Looking to break even, not make money off the back of someone else's fantastic design work! We're a ways off from that either way.

Does anyone know which other Toyota keys are like ours? I know the GR Yaris key is, and I'd wager that the Prius one is as well, with the number of people looking for a smaller key for those. I've got a friend with a TRD Pro Tacoma, so I'll ask him as well.

 

[GRey]

I wonder if PETG being flexible will help it from cracking, I've been using mine for two weeks now no issues. But I'm also pretty gentle on my keys and don't put them in my pocket with other things

Definitely, as long as you don't leave it on your dashboard or in your cupholder on a hot day, it will probably do great! Heck, even PLA would probably be fine for most.

 

[3SHIFT]

Definitely, as long as you don't leave it on your dashboard or in your cupholder on a hot day, it will probably do great! Heck, even PLA would probably be fine for most.

I have some PETG seatbelt holders that haven't had any issues in the hot car, so in theory PETG might be alright for that.

 

[3SHIFT]

No worries, for the short-term, I'm solving that problem with materials! I'll be printing a prototype next week (once my filament comes) in PA6-GF, which is a ton stronger than ABS, on top of being glass-fiber reinforced. I've also got a few other materials coming to play with, and I'm going to give the buttons a try in TPU. I don't think that's going to go well with all of the bridging (I can barely get the buttons to print cleanly in ABS), but it's worth a try!

Frankly, I've ordered about $300 in filament and nozzles literally just to play with materials for this key, as I'd really like to get it perfect! Some ideas I have:

- Printing the entire key in ABS, adding another layer or two to the top, and having the GR logo in full color.

- Leaving the GR logo alone, printing the fob in black PA6-GF, and I also have ABS-GF coming in case that doesn't go well.

- Eliminating the GR logo for the cleanest possible print, but that's not my favorite idea. If anything, I'd like to add 'Corolla' in the proper font, as well, and then eventually make a 'Yaris' one.

- Buttons in TPU, as mentioned above, though I plan to eventually change the button structure to act as a gasket, like I mentioned in my other post.

- Potentially having a batch of these CNC machined from aluminum

I think I would be perfectly happy if I could get a perfectly clean print with the PA6-GF, with smooth rounded edges instead of the angular ones, and TPU buttons which act as a gasket. The metal key would just be superfluous, and I would have to engineer around a bunch of other issues with that, like a liner for the board so that the key hardware doesn't get grounded out in the case.

I'm really just getting started here - but once I get them to a point where I'm happy with the prints overall, I may start offering to sell them for the cost of materials, shipping, and a nominal fee (literally a few dollars) to cover wear-and-tear and time. Looking to break even, not make money off the back of someone else's fantastic design work! We're a ways off from that either way.

Does anyone know which other Toyota keys are like ours? I know the GR Yaris key is, and I'd wager that the Prius one is as well, with the number of people looking for a smaller key for those. I've got a friend with a TRD Pro Tacoma, so I'll ask him as well.

I have the buttons printed in TPU as well, they didn't come out the cleanest but it worked surprisingly well with supports. (it was my first time trying TPU with supports)

 

[WideHippedCorolla]

No worries, for the short-term, I'm solving that problem with materials! I'll be printing a prototype next week (once my filament comes) in PA6-GF, which is a ton stronger than ABS, on top of being glass-fiber reinforced. I've also got a few other materials coming to play with, and I'm going to give the buttons a try in TPU. I don't think that's going to go well with all of the bridging (I can barely get the buttons to print cleanly in ABS), but it's worth a try!

Frankly, I've ordered about $300 in filament and nozzles literally just to play with materials for this key, as I'd really like to get it perfect! Some ideas I have:

- Printing the entire key in ABS, adding another layer or two to the top, and having the GR logo in full color.

- Leaving the GR logo alone, printing the fob in black PA6-GF, and I also have ABS-GF coming in case that doesn't go well.

- Eliminating the GR logo for the cleanest possible print, but that's not my favorite idea. If anything, I'd like to add 'Corolla' in the proper font, as well, and then eventually make a 'Yaris' one.

- Buttons in TPU, as mentioned above, though I plan to eventually change the button structure to act as a gasket, like I mentioned in my other post.

- Potentially having a batch of these CNC machined from aluminum

I think I would be perfectly happy if I could get a perfectly clean print with the PA6-GF, with smooth rounded edges instead of the angular ones, and TPU buttons which act as a gasket. The metal key would just be superfluous, and I would have to engineer around a bunch of other issues with that, like a liner for the board so that the key hardware doesn't get grounded out in the case.

I'm really just getting started here - but once I get them to a point where I'm happy with the prints overall, I may start offering to sell them for the cost of materials, shipping, and a nominal fee (literally a few dollars) to cover wear-and-tear and time. Looking to break even, not make money off the back of someone else's fantastic design work! We're a ways off from that either way.

Does anyone know which other Toyota keys are like ours? I know the GR Yaris key is, and I'd wager that the Prius one is as well, with the number of people looking for a smaller key for those. I've got a friend with a TRD Pro Tacoma, so I'll ask him as well.

Count me in as a sponsor, then. I’ll happily be one of your first buyers as your experimentation evolves.

in terms of similar key, the Tacoma and Venza keys from last generation are the same as ours as are most trims of the 4Runner, Tundra and Sequoia of the current gen. I currently have this bad boy on one of my GR Corolla keys. Fits perfectly, but still WAY thicker than CAWA’s design. Amazon.com: AJT DESIGN Replacement Keyfob Compatible with Toyota Tacoma (2024+), Tundra (2022+) & Sequoia (2023+) | Custom Made in USA - Black : Automotive

 

[GRey]

Count me in as a sponsor, then. I’ll happily be one of your first buyers as your experimentation evolves.

in terms of similar key, the Tacoma and Venza keys from last generation are the same as ours as are most trims of the 4Runner, Tundra and Sequoia of the current gen. I currently have this bad boy on one of my GR Corolla keys. Fits perfectly, but still WAY thicker than CAWA’s design. Amazon.com: AJT DESIGN Replacement Keyfob Compatible with Toyota Tacoma (2024+), Tundra (2022+) & Sequoia (2023+) | Custom Made in USA - Black : Automotive

I just talked to my friend, and apparently the manual Tacoma still has a key you have to insert and turn! I asked him if he’s sure he doesn’t have a 1998 TRD Pro

 

[snowrx]

@GRey I think an aluminum case will block the wireless signal, or at least reduce range significantly'

I have noticed that the thinner battery needs replacement more often.

At one point I thought the Corolla Cross shared this PC board, but I can't confirm this.
My PETG case has bowed out a bit in the middle over time, it's still functional but not sealed as well as before. I hope the GF filaments are more rigid, I'm curious to see how they hold up.

 

[GRey]

@GRey I think an aluminum case will block the wireless signal, or at least reduce range significantly'

I have noticed that the thinner battery needs replacement more often.

At one point I thought the Corolla Cross shared this PC board, but I can't confirm this.
My PETG case has bowed out a bit in the middle over time, it's still functional but not sealed as well as before. I hope the GF filaments are more rigid, I'm curious to see how they hold up.

Ooh, good point. Oh well, thanks for saving me from doing something stupid!

 

[snowrx]

Well as often as mine refuses to see the key in my right pocket, inches from the antenna, I'd hate to see reduced range!

 

[GRey]

Getting closer to where I want to be on the design itself. I've radiused the corners, and changed the icons on the buttons to be text.

Meanwhile, I've gone ahead and ordered a bunch of the keyring component in 316 stainless, which should be perfect, if not still a bit overkill. Screws and heat set inserts are here, I went for torx instead of allen heads, just because I prefer torx overall. For anyone who cares, shipping from McMaster-Carr was insanely quick. I placed my order on Wednesday night, and the parts came Thursday, which is insane.

Hopefully I'll have some prototype pics here soon!

 

[3SHIFT]

Well as often as mine refuses to see the key in my right pocket, inches from the antenna, I'd hate to see reduced range!

My range was terrible, I couldn't lock/unlock the car from further away than the proximity would normally work (I had the forged carbon fiber version fob cover)

Using the new 3d printed one, my range has greatly increased.

 

[GRey]

My range was terrible, I couldn't lock/unlock the car from further away than the proximity would normally work (I had the forged carbon fiber version fob cover)

Using the new 3d printed one, my range has greatly increased.

That's precisely why I went with PA6-GF instead of one of the carbon fiber filaments, carbon fiber does block radio signal!

 

[Partymullet]

Ooh, good point. Oh well, thanks for saving me from doing something stupid!

You could also try and get it cNc in ultem or delrin.

 

[Partymullet]

I'm totally ok with jumping on a groupbuy if it ever comes to that. This is DEFINITELY something I've been wanting since I saw Taco owners doing it.

 

[rohmbd]

Will the new version use a gasket?

 

[GRey]

Very true, ultem or delrin would be pretty awesome and super durable!

All of my filaments came this morning. I printed a prototype out of PA6-GF. It's a bit less smooth on the sides than I would like (most likely due to the glass fiber content), but I'll see if it will smooth out with a touch of wet sanding. Otherwise, the faces came out fantastic.

It took me a couple of tries to get a decent print of the buttons out of TPU. With how relatively hard the TPU is, I think I would rather enjoy the more-consistent result of ABS, in a contrasting color.

The PA6-GF is absolutely strong enough to hold up long-term, though. If you crack this stuff in normal use, or even most ABnormal use, you're a special case!

I'll try doing a proper drying cycle on the PA6-GF to see if I can get a better print, as well - I cracked open the package and printed with it. I assume it was pretty dry when it was sealed, so this may be as good as it gets, but maybe not. Fingers crossed!

 

[GRey]

Will the new version use a gasket?

I have not yet redesigned it to use a gasket. Trying to pin down the materials first (the easy part), and then I'll work on that. With the way the casing was originally designed, it's going to require more rework than I had hoped, since there just isn't any room as it currently sits.

Soon, though!