What's the info to order - PN/company?

 

i didnt go with the part i found on the internet. you can see their compatibility list here

Acre Titanium Brake Pad Shim Set Front - Brembo 4-Pot Caliper - RHDJapan

Acre Titanium Brake Pad Shim Set Front - Brembo 4-Pot Caliper. Buy direct with global shipping to your door from Osaka, Japan. We speak English and all email queries are responded to promptly!

www.rhdjapan.com

i went with another company that makes it for an fk8 and was sitting on a shelf in CA and about half the cost. i dont want to steer anyone at a certain part/company until i test these out myself. so sorry no p/n yet

 

Can you post the part number or website for these shims in CA now that you've had a chance to test them out?

 

Did you try and order the brake ducts? The part numbers have been posted, but don't know if they are available yet or backordered.

 

it looks like they're available. it's a great oem (sadly plus) mod for us cores. for the price i could DIY with a bracket to the center disc and come out way cheaper. also sucks the center hat isn't vented. not having brake ducts wasn't going to be a deal breaker for me. but with how limited the CE and ME will be, i wonder how many will actually utilize the factory brake ducts. there's a little bitterness in that statement 😆 i may trade up to a CE if it becomes available to me, especially if the color is heavy metal.

 

What are the part numbers for the brake ducts ?

 

GR Owner’s Manual pdfs online

https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/warranty-owners-manuals.gr-corolla.2023

www.grcorollaforum.com

 

oh shit my post came back! I wonder where it went. so I went to the track and the front brakes only saw 143c/290f maybe I didn't work them hard enough or maybe the ti pads worked. but the brakes were great! I had to back off after smelling fade on cars I was trailing 😅 I haven't checked how much pad life is left. with so much brake dust on the wheels I'm afraid to look.

 

oh shit my post came back! I wonder where it went. so I went to the track and the front brakes only saw 143c/290f maybe I didn't work them hard enough or maybe the ti pads worked. but the brakes were great! I had to back off after smelling fade on cars I was trailing 😅 I haven't checked how much pad life is left. with so much brake dust on the wheels I'm afraid to look.

Have you temps been higher since? Did you also measure your rotor temps?

Sorry, I was just double checking that the link what what you bought. These are just for the fronts, right? So do you not need them on the back?

Unless you've made some crazy modifications to your car and/or are running slicks, there's really no need for the use of shims on the rear brakes.

 

next track day is this sunday. so the shims did its job. now im wondering how are things doing before the shim haha so i found my ol temp paint and well see how little the rears get used and how hot the fronts get...

 

So do those mecan shims fit well? Do you have a picture of it by any chance?

 

everyone's use case will be different

 

It looks like you used these in addition to the stock shims and placed them on the outside so the titanium is up against the pistons? I already have a ripped dust boot running stock but no melting at all, so I don't know if it's really a heat issue or just a defect. The other 7 dust boots still look perfect.

 

Correct, they're between the pistons and stock shim. Sounds to me like you had one defected dust boot ☹

 

6month update:

Dust boots still look good as new 😁
Only 4k miles but 3 track days 😅

 

How thick are those shims?

Edit never mind- looks like most of the aftermarket shims are .5mm/.020" thick to allow fitment with new pads, with .8mm/0.032", or 1mm/0.039" thick shims for higher heat applications.
Some have a ceramic heat barrier coating.

Looking at Grade 5 Ti plate on Ebay.....

 

I'd have to check, online it says it's 0.04mm haha I don't think they're that thin.

I'm debating putting mine in. Mine still look new (apart from the one that has a tear in it) even after a very hot track day plus some others. I wonder if Toyota improved these at all. Have we seen any melted on a Corolla or just the Yaris?

Maybe they did some improvements. I'm not sure. But the guys that have been tracking without the ti shim have a yellow tint on GR caliper decals while mine are still white. So I guess the shin is just saving the decal from yellowing... 😅

 

I'm debating putting mine in. Mine still look new (apart from the one that has a tear in it) even after a very hot track day plus some others. I wonder if Toyota improved these at all. Have we seen any melted on a Corolla or just the Yaris?

 

Do they fit with the OEM pads, if they've only been lightly used? Just concerned about the thickness on a car that only has 3000 miles.

 

My car has less than 150mi when I put them on 😅

 

Hah! Thanks

 

Yup, definitely don't buy them now. I edited the post where I post the link to urotuning. I actually bought them before I took delivery of the car 😅

 

So what is the agreement? Which plates work? link?

 

Safest bet is buying one for a GR yaris.

 

I installed these temp stickers as well. These are the temps I registered at VIR in a 25 min session. No TI shims installed since they did not fit...

I have swapped back to OEM pads and observed no melting of the rubber on the caliper piston seals.

 

I installed these temp stickers as well. These are the temps I registered at VIR in a 25 min session. No TI shims installed since they did not fit... View attachment 18098
View attachment 18097
I have swapped back to OEM pads and observed no melting of the rubber on the caliper piston seals.

What pads did you use? It was mentioned before that maybe our seals are updated. It's hard to tell from the angles, but did your caliper decal yellow? That seems to be the only reason to use a ti shim on the GRC now.

Edit: updated seal/decal yellowing was from an FB thread

 

After lapping VIR on Friday it looks like a little bit of the brake dust might be "baked" in. Mostly on the parts of the caliper located very close to the rotor (i.e. mostly near the top and bottom).

The spots I circled in blue required a bit more scrubbing than the rest, but the dust came off. The green circles are the spots where I could not get all the dust off. Caliper had been previously ceramic coated but I'm honestly not sure how much that helped. This was after 200+ miles of tracking on Friday (roughly half done in dry conditions, rest in wet).

 

Thanks for the tip. I’ll see what I can do. What did you use to scrub off the dust?

 

I used Americana Global Wheel & Tire cleaner. Americana Global - Premium Car Detailing Products However again, it didn't all come off. A detailer friend recommended I try P&S Wheel Cleaner.


And beyond that here are the brushes I used: Wheel Woolies Wheel Brushes | Chemical Guys Though honestly they're not the greatest. They don't scratch but they're also not great at removing stuff that's really stuck on without a lot of pressure applied.

Hopefully it helps you a bit, though I agree that some of that looks like discoloration. My AMG's brake calipers are badly discolored, but the car is 11 years old and they were already like that when I purchased it. Here's a photo of the GRC's brake caliper, after a deep cleaning yesterday.

 

im with @WolfpackAWD its likely baked on. i also use p&s brake buster and its pretty good even diluted. ive done 8:1 and it still works. im gonna try 10:1 with the brush @WolfpackAWD recommended. i finish it off with p&s bead maker, i dunno if it helps any either.

 

I normally clean them thoroughly with p&s brake buster diluted 5:1. I have even tried isopropyl alcohol before I ceramic coated the calipers. Seems to be baked on or mostly discoloration, but I will try again to clean them this weekend.

 

^Damn

Something else that I would recommend, to prevent this from happening at track events. Bring some electric fans with you and as soon as you park the car back in the paddock get the fans blowing on your front brakes. Any baking and discoloration is primarily going to occur once the car is stationary. It can take over 30 minutes for the brakes to cool off enough to be safe to the touch. That entire time the calipers are "baking". Besides that, and Ti shims, I don't think there's much we can do.

 

Were you the CE I saw on track (VIR Friday 10/20) that was not with the Toyota group?

 

That was me

 

I spent an absurd amount of money on some ELIG GRY shims shipped from Australia.

$81 for the shims, $55 for shipping to Los Angeles. I'll advise once I have a chance to install them.

 

Thanks, let us know. And that's not "horrible" given how niche they are.

 

so i swapped my 3rd set of oem pads. all seals are good. the clearances are tight between the pins. if i filed 1-2mm it would float perfectly. but for under $60 and no yellow caliper decal. im satisfied with this result. theres an FB member who filed the holes to make it fit better but he had done 1-2 track days already and their caliper decals were starting to yellow. everyone i meet that push these cars wonder how come our times are similar but my decal isnt yellow. then i tell them i put the Ti shim when the car had less than 150 miles on it. also i do a cool down parade lap around the paddock until my oil temps are under 210F like @WolfpackAWD said its just baking when your car sits after a track session.

 

Bring air fans with you! And direct onto the front wheels, haha. Most tracks charge to use their electrical outlets, but if you're just running an extension cord for a few small fans they usually turn the blind eye.

 

you have brake ducts, you dont need airfans!