Not really.
I have a plastic did plate on my 2013 VW TDI Sportwagen and no harm done.
I have a plastic did plate on my 2013 VW TDI Sportwagen and no harm done.
Rust due to skid plate?
Iron corrosion basics: Iron rusts in the presence of oxygen. The reaction is catalyzed (sped up) by heat, water, and and a variety of other chemical compounds (notably "salts"). I'm pretty confident that the plastic "aero" skid plate under the car is going to trap water and salt (northern climates) against unprotected steel. Does this bother anyone else?
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Thank me later, I'm planning on spraying thisIron corrosion basics: Iron rusts in the presence of oxygen. The reaction is catalyzed (sped up) by heat, water, and and a variety of other chemical compounds (notably "salts"). I'm pretty confident that the plastic "aero" skid plate under the car is going to trap water and salt (northern climates) against unprotected steel. Does this bother anyone else?
Or just not drive it when the salt trucks are on the road.Thank me later, I'm planning on spraying this View attachment 3689
I agree, I have my GC8 Type R and I never drive it during winter, but still, ACF-50 can protect the undercarriage from rustOr just not drive it when the salt trucks are on the road.
Practically every car within last few decades has some kind of plastic undercarriage "plates". My 87 FX16 has plastic under engine & transaxle plastic splash plates.
Fair enough. I didnt realize that plastic plates were so ubiquitous. I'm probably just a little soured from my Tacoma. Fully boxed frame without vents/drains created lots of opportunity for damp mud to collect. A few years ago I had to go through and reinforce the rear frame. On a unibody, that kind of rust would be terminal.Practically every car within last few decades has some kind of plastic undercarriage "plates". My 87 FX16 has plastic under engine & transaxle plastic splash plates.
As far as winter driving, in my mind, winter is the number one reason to get this car over the many FWD options out there. Related: we can see that it doesn't drift on dry pavement. But I'd bet a nickel this 30:70 drive thing will be a riot on ice : )
Most of those plastic aero plates are stood off from the metal to some degree (maybe half an inch or more in some cases) to minimize water collecting near it also. Usually they provide more protection than harm.
But ACF-50 or one of the even more impressive products from this test seems like a good idea in general: The BEST motorcycle rust inhibitors
But ACF-50 or one of the even more impressive products from this test seems like a good idea in general: The BEST motorcycle rust inhibitors
what steel do you think is unprotected?
Not quite sure what you mean by that, but I would say suspension arms and spots liable to be hit by rocks or collect moisture (like drain holes or spring perches in the suspension) are good places to spray these anti-corrosion sprays. (Not the exhaust though because of how hot it gets.) I believe in the test they didn't harm any paint or plastic or rubber; they're not just for bare metal but to protect spots where the paint chips. One guy on the GRY forums (Deano I believe) got his GRY underside entirely (all painted surfaces included) coated with Dinitrol (which seems to only be available in Europe but as best I can tell is a professionally-applied cosmoline product). It's a similar idea with these DIY products.what steel do you think is unprotected?
Edit: I think, but would need to check, that these sprays will also keep your transmission case and other unpainted aluminum surfaces from getting covered with white aluminum corrosion too. (And might help prevent drain bolts from freezing up!)
Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.Not quite sure what you mean by that, but I would say suspension arms and spots liable to be hit by rocks or collect moisture (like drain holes or spring perches in the suspension) are good places to spray these anti-corrosion sprays. (Not the exhaust though because of how hot it gets.) I believe in the test they didn't harm any paint or plastic or rubber; they're not just for bare metal but to protect spots where the paint chips. One guy on the GRY forums (Deano I believe) got his GRY underside entirely (all painted surfaces included) coated with Dinitrol (which seems to only be available in Europe but as best I can tell is a professionally-applied cosmoline product). It's a similar idea with these DIY products.
Edit: I think, but would need to check, that these sprays will also keep your transmission case and other unpainted aluminum surfaces from getting covered with white aluminum corrosion too. (And might help prevent drain bolts from freezing up!)
I know; Deano would seem to be very OCD in ... just about everything done to his GRY. (Though there are lots of cool things done, like adding an intercooler spray and other things--you get to see a lot of stuff inside the car from taking apart and reassembly. Deano's B road blaster and track day warrior )Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.
I think that Dinitrol is popular in Europe due to MOT and similar inspections that get people for rust damage under their vehicles.
Though in my case I'll use some DIY spray because I live where the roads get salted at least a few weeks every year, and I'm hoping to test Toyota's fabled longevity. If it keeps bolts from freezing up that alone would be worth it if I do any modifications or repairs. (Not to mention who knows what the future looks like as far as fun manual-transmission cars. In having a stick, the GRC is better than a Ferrari or Lamborghini! ;P )
I undercoat everything I own with Fluid Film NAS. Spray it out of Kellsport guns.
Just remove all undershields, wheel liners, etc. Spray everything. Use the 360 Wands to coat the inside of subframes, control arms, floor pan cavities, etc. I drill doors and rockers on my vehicles. Reapply to high -spray areas every year.
Toyota has a history of building rot-bombs so it's best you nip this in the bud while the car is still new.
Source: I live in Northeast Ohio. We probably use more road salt than anywhere else on the planet.
Just remove all undershields, wheel liners, etc. Spray everything. Use the 360 Wands to coat the inside of subframes, control arms, floor pan cavities, etc. I drill doors and rockers on my vehicles. Reapply to high -spray areas every year.
Toyota has a history of building rot-bombs so it's best you nip this in the bud while the car is still new.
Source: I live in Northeast Ohio. We probably use more road salt than anywhere else on the planet.
Was just going to say, toyotas reliability is mechanical, rust not so much. Although to be fair all vehicles from that era, 80’s were prone to rust.
my 2008 yaris paint is krap, but otherwise solid.
my 2008 yaris paint is krap, but otherwise solid.
I don't claim to be a chassis expert but what I noticed between brands like Toyota and a car like a Volkswagen is the Germans will seam seal over EVERY overlapping piece of metal and every single spot weld. It's hard for any coating (beit ELPO or paint) to stick to the sharp edges of steel pieces or the sharp areas of spot welds, and that's where I see these types of cars start to rust. So the seam sealer creates an impenetrable barrier that keeps the original coating underneath intact. I'm sure the Germans use a bit better chassis dip as well but that's a pure assumption.Was just going to say, toyotas reliability is mechanical, rust not so much. Although to be fair all vehicles from that era, 80’s were prone to rust.
my 2008 yaris paint is krap, but otherwise solid.
I'm only talking about unibody in this particular instance, the truck frames are a whole separate topic.
better than Krown?Thank me later, I'm planning on spraying this View attachment 3689
I believe German cars in general rust less than Japanese or domestics.I don't claim to be a chassis expert but what I noticed between brands like Toyota and a car like a Volkswagen is the Germans will seam seal over EVERY overlapping piece of metal and every single spot weld. It's hard for any coating (beit ELPO or paint) to stick to the sharp edges of steel pieces or the sharp areas of spot welds, and that's where I see these types of cars start to rust. So the seam sealer creates an impenetrable barrier that keeps the original coating underneath intact. I'm sure the Germans use a bit better chassis dip as well but that's a pure assumption.
I'm only talking about unibody in this particular instance, the truck frames are a whole separate topic.
Must be the system they use.
I'm fairly certain I saw some tests where it was. My impression is ACF-50 and some of the others from the Bennett's bike corrosion protection test were substantially better than the sprayed-in oils like Krown. (The Bennett's test: The BEST motorcycle rust inhibitors )better than Krown?
I recently rediscovered Waxoyl- used it on some cars many decades ago.
I recently had it applied to my low mile Mazdaspeed Miata and minty 2010 Element (both BaT purchases) by the Cincinnati detail shop that I’ve used for PPF and ceramic coating on my NSX and Miata. (Eastside Auto Spa | Cincinnati Detailing, Paint Protection and Ceramic Coatings, although for some reason they’re not listed on waxoyl’s site yet.)
Planning on having it applied to the GR also.
www.waxoyl-usa.com
I recently had it applied to my low mile Mazdaspeed Miata and minty 2010 Element (both BaT purchases) by the Cincinnati detail shop that I’ve used for PPF and ceramic coating on my NSX and Miata. (Eastside Auto Spa | Cincinnati Detailing, Paint Protection and Ceramic Coatings, although for some reason they’re not listed on waxoyl’s site yet.)
Planning on having it applied to the GR also.
Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.
The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.
I cannot put to words how much this statement annoys me. Yes, it's a corolla but a nameplate alone does not determine a vehicles worth, especially for a vehicle that appeals to peoples psychological values so its value to many people will be significantly more than the badge that says "corolla". My point is don't be a shitter when people want to figure out how to enjoy their vehicle for as much as possible for as long as possible.Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.
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