Not really.
I have a plastic did plate on my 2013 VW TDI Sportwagen and no harm done.
I have a plastic did plate on my 2013 VW TDI Sportwagen and no harm done.
Thank me later, I'm planning on spraying thisIron corrosion basics: Iron rusts in the presence of oxygen. The reaction is catalyzed (sped up) by heat, water, and and a variety of other chemical compounds (notably "salts"). I'm pretty confident that the plastic "aero" skid plate under the car is going to trap water and salt (northern climates) against unprotected steel. Does this bother anyone else?
Or just not drive it when the salt trucks are on the road.Thank me later, I'm planning on spraying this View attachment 3689
I agree, I have my GC8 Type R and I never drive it during winter, but still, ACF-50 can protect the undercarriage from rustOr just not drive it when the salt trucks are on the road.
Fair enough. I didnt realize that plastic plates were so ubiquitous. I'm probably just a little soured from my Tacoma. Fully boxed frame without vents/drains created lots of opportunity for damp mud to collect. A few years ago I had to go through and reinforce the rear frame. On a unibody, that kind of rust would be terminal.Practically every car within last few decades has some kind of plastic undercarriage "plates". My 87 FX16 has plastic under engine & transaxle plastic splash plates.
Not quite sure what you mean by that, but I would say suspension arms and spots liable to be hit by rocks or collect moisture (like drain holes or spring perches in the suspension) are good places to spray these anti-corrosion sprays. (Not the exhaust though because of how hot it gets.) I believe in the test they didn't harm any paint or plastic or rubber; they're not just for bare metal but to protect spots where the paint chips. One guy on the GRY forums (Deano I believe) got his GRY underside entirely (all painted surfaces included) coated with Dinitrol (which seems to only be available in Europe but as best I can tell is a professionally-applied cosmoline product). It's a similar idea with these DIY products.what steel do you think is unprotected?
Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.Not quite sure what you mean by that, but I would say suspension arms and spots liable to be hit by rocks or collect moisture (like drain holes or spring perches in the suspension) are good places to spray these anti-corrosion sprays. (Not the exhaust though because of how hot it gets.) I believe in the test they didn't harm any paint or plastic or rubber; they're not just for bare metal but to protect spots where the paint chips. One guy on the GRY forums (Deano I believe) got his GRY underside entirely (all painted surfaces included) coated with Dinitrol (which seems to only be available in Europe but as best I can tell is a professionally-applied cosmoline product). It's a similar idea with these DIY products.
Edit: I think, but would need to check, that these sprays will also keep your transmission case and other unpainted aluminum surfaces from getting covered with white aluminum corrosion too. (And might help prevent drain bolts from freezing up!)
I know; Deano would seem to be very OCD in ... just about everything done to his GRY. (Though there are lots of cool things done, like adding an intercooler spray and other things--you get to see a lot of stuff inside the car from taking apart and reassembly. Deano's B road blaster and track day warrior )Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.
I don't claim to be a chassis expert but what I noticed between brands like Toyota and a car like a Volkswagen is the Germans will seam seal over EVERY overlapping piece of metal and every single spot weld. It's hard for any coating (beit ELPO or paint) to stick to the sharp edges of steel pieces or the sharp areas of spot welds, and that's where I see these types of cars start to rust. So the seam sealer creates an impenetrable barrier that keeps the original coating underneath intact. I'm sure the Germans use a bit better chassis dip as well but that's a pure assumption.Was just going to say, toyotas reliability is mechanical, rust not so much. Although to be fair all vehicles from that era, 80’s were prone to rust.
my 2008 yaris paint is krap, but otherwise solid.
better than Krown?Thank me later, I'm planning on spraying this View attachment 3689
I believe German cars in general rust less than Japanese or domestics.I don't claim to be a chassis expert but what I noticed between brands like Toyota and a car like a Volkswagen is the Germans will seam seal over EVERY overlapping piece of metal and every single spot weld. It's hard for any coating (beit ELPO or paint) to stick to the sharp edges of steel pieces or the sharp areas of spot welds, and that's where I see these types of cars start to rust. So the seam sealer creates an impenetrable barrier that keeps the original coating underneath intact. I'm sure the Germans use a bit better chassis dip as well but that's a pure assumption.
I'm only talking about unibody in this particular instance, the truck frames are a whole separate topic.
I'm fairly certain I saw some tests where it was. My impression is ACF-50 and some of the others from the Bennett's bike corrosion protection test were substantially better than the sprayed-in oils like Krown. (The Bennett's test: The BEST motorcycle rust inhibitors )better than Krown?
I cannot put to words how much this statement annoys me. Yes, it's a corolla but a nameplate alone does not determine a vehicles worth, especially for a vehicle that appeals to peoples psychological values so its value to many people will be significantly more than the badge that says "corolla". My point is don't be a shitter when people want to figure out how to enjoy their vehicle for as much as possible for as long as possible.Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.