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Iron corrosion basics: Iron rusts in the presence of oxygen. The reaction is catalyzed (sped up) by heat, water, and and a variety of other chemical compounds (notably "salts"). I'm pretty confident that the plastic "aero" skid plate under the car is going to trap water and salt (northern climates) against unprotected steel. Does this bother anyone else?
 

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Iron corrosion basics: Iron rusts in the presence of oxygen. The reaction is catalyzed (sped up) by heat, water, and and a variety of other chemical compounds (notably "salts"). I'm pretty confident that the plastic "aero" skid plate under the car is going to trap water and salt (northern climates) against unprotected steel. Does this bother anyone else?
Thank me later, I'm planning on spraying this
Bottle Liquid Solution Flower Fluid
 

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Practically every car within last few decades has some kind of plastic undercarriage "plates". My 87 FX16 has plastic under engine & transaxle plastic splash plates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Practically every car within last few decades has some kind of plastic undercarriage "plates". My 87 FX16 has plastic under engine & transaxle plastic splash plates.
Fair enough. I didnt realize that plastic plates were so ubiquitous. I'm probably just a little soured from my Tacoma. Fully boxed frame without vents/drains created lots of opportunity for damp mud to collect. A few years ago I had to go through and reinforce the rear frame. On a unibody, that kind of rust would be terminal.

As far as winter driving, in my mind, winter is the number one reason to get this car over the many FWD options out there. Related: we can see that it doesn't drift on dry pavement. But I'd bet a nickel this 30:70 drive thing will be a riot on ice : )
 

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Most of those plastic aero plates are stood off from the metal to some degree (maybe half an inch or more in some cases) to minimize water collecting near it also. Usually they provide more protection than harm.

But ACF-50 or one of the even more impressive products from this test seems like a good idea in general: The BEST motorcycle rust inhibitors
 

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what steel do you think is unprotected?
Not quite sure what you mean by that, but I would say suspension arms and spots liable to be hit by rocks or collect moisture (like drain holes or spring perches in the suspension) are good places to spray these anti-corrosion sprays. (Not the exhaust though because of how hot it gets.) I believe in the test they didn't harm any paint or plastic or rubber; they're not just for bare metal but to protect spots where the paint chips. One guy on the GRY forums (Deano I believe) got his GRY underside entirely (all painted surfaces included) coated with Dinitrol (which seems to only be available in Europe but as best I can tell is a professionally-applied cosmoline product). It's a similar idea with these DIY products.

Edit: I think, but would need to check, that these sprays will also keep your transmission case and other unpainted aluminum surfaces from getting covered with white aluminum corrosion too. (And might help prevent drain bolts from freezing up!)
 

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Not quite sure what you mean by that, but I would say suspension arms and spots liable to be hit by rocks or collect moisture (like drain holes or spring perches in the suspension) are good places to spray these anti-corrosion sprays. (Not the exhaust though because of how hot it gets.) I believe in the test they didn't harm any paint or plastic or rubber; they're not just for bare metal but to protect spots where the paint chips. One guy on the GRY forums (Deano I believe) got his GRY underside entirely (all painted surfaces included) coated with Dinitrol (which seems to only be available in Europe but as best I can tell is a professionally-applied cosmoline product). It's a similar idea with these DIY products.

Edit: I think, but would need to check, that these sprays will also keep your transmission case and other unpainted aluminum surfaces from getting covered with white aluminum corrosion too. (And might help prevent drain bolts from freezing up!)
Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.
 

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Just a heads up, but we're talking about a Corolla here not a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche.
I know; Deano would seem to be very OCD in ... just about everything done to his GRY. (Though there are lots of cool things done, like adding an intercooler spray and other things--you get to see a lot of stuff inside the car from taking apart and reassembly. Deano's B road blaster and track day warrior )
I think that Dinitrol is popular in Europe due to MOT and similar inspections that get people for rust damage under their vehicles.

Though in my case I'll use some DIY spray because I live where the roads get salted at least a few weeks every year, and I'm hoping to test Toyota's fabled longevity. If it keeps bolts from freezing up that alone would be worth it if I do any modifications or repairs. (Not to mention who knows what the future looks like as far as fun manual-transmission cars. In having a stick, the GRC is better than a Ferrari or Lamborghini! ;P )
 

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I undercoat everything I own with Fluid Film NAS. Spray it out of Kellsport guns.

Just remove all undershields, wheel liners, etc. Spray everything. Use the 360 Wands to coat the inside of subframes, control arms, floor pan cavities, etc. I drill doors and rockers on my vehicles. Reapply to high -spray areas every year.

Toyota has a history of building rot-bombs so it's best you nip this in the bud while the car is still new.

Source: I live in Northeast Ohio. We probably use more road salt than anywhere else on the planet.
 

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Was just going to say, toyotas reliability is mechanical, rust not so much. Although to be fair all vehicles from that era, 80’s were prone to rust.
my 2008 yaris paint is krap, but otherwise solid.
I don't claim to be a chassis expert but what I noticed between brands like Toyota and a car like a Volkswagen is the Germans will seam seal over EVERY overlapping piece of metal and every single spot weld. It's hard for any coating (beit ELPO or paint) to stick to the sharp edges of steel pieces or the sharp areas of spot welds, and that's where I see these types of cars start to rust. So the seam sealer creates an impenetrable barrier that keeps the original coating underneath intact. I'm sure the Germans use a bit better chassis dip as well but that's a pure assumption.

I'm only talking about unibody in this particular instance, the truck frames are a whole separate topic.
 

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I don't claim to be a chassis expert but what I noticed between brands like Toyota and a car like a Volkswagen is the Germans will seam seal over EVERY overlapping piece of metal and every single spot weld. It's hard for any coating (beit ELPO or paint) to stick to the sharp edges of steel pieces or the sharp areas of spot welds, and that's where I see these types of cars start to rust. So the seam sealer creates an impenetrable barrier that keeps the original coating underneath intact. I'm sure the Germans use a bit better chassis dip as well but that's a pure assumption.

I'm only talking about unibody in this particular instance, the truck frames are a whole separate topic.
I believe German cars in general rust less than Japanese or domestics.
Must be the system they use.
 

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I recently rediscovered Waxoyl- used it on some cars many decades ago.

I recently had it applied to my low mile Mazdaspeed Miata and minty 2010 Element (both BaT purchases) by the Cincinnati detail shop that I’ve used for PPF and ceramic coating on my NSX and Miata. (Eastside Auto Spa | Cincinnati Detailing, Paint Protection and Ceramic Coatings, although for some reason they’re not listed on waxoyl’s site yet.)

Planning on having it applied to the GR also.

 
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