Why would you do that when you can get a set oh Ohlins or KW V3s for nearly the same price?

 

I've got a soft spot for overpriced OEM+

 

I’m just hoping to score someone’s oem suspension for my standard Corolla after they switch to some aftermarket stuff.

 

If I was a betting man, I would bet it doesn't fit at all.

 

Who knows, but they said the same thing about the Supra TT, and the Lexus SC300/400, so might be worth a try I figure.

 

Looks like different bolt spacing between the two cars. Oh well, might still be worth a little fab work someday if I’m bored.
We have a Rav4 now that uses the larger hubs and spindles common to the GRC so I can measure everything.

 

E210 owners swap CHR spindles. And I know some of the suspension arms are the same for the Corolla and the gr but not everything

 

Are the part numbers for the 2025 front end available? Bumper cover, grill, fender liners, that sort of stuff?

 

You should be able to order the whole front end no problem. The owner of 555 did a 25 bumper swap on his already. If you do a Google search he did a write-up with the part numbers as well

 

I ordered a few of the parts and they were on backorder so it took a month to receive everything. Finally got around to installing the following

2025 Steering Column Bolt (x1): 90119-10A34
This was easy to install, just need to remove the lower panel where the ODB2 port is, loosen the air duct, and remove the brake light switch. The original bolt head was a 14mm, the new one is 17mm. I couldn't fit my torque wrench in there so I just tightened it by hand but made sure it was solid and tight. Old bolt is left and new bolt is right

2025 Steering Column Bolt side

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 steering column bolt top

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 Clutch Spring 31394-12090

Bushing PN# 90389-06055

This was a pain in the ass to remove and install. I'm weak and couldn't compress it by hand, I even tried throwing my purse at it and boy that didn't work either, not sure why everyone recommends that... To remove the old one I just forced it out from the side that sits on the clutch pedal... unfortunately I broke the bushing and had to purchase a new one so proceed with caution, luckily my dealer had them in stock. To install I compressed it by wrapping the top portion with a rag and used pliers, after it was compressed I used safety wire to hold it, replaced the bushing and holder and it went in fairly easy, then I snipped the safety wire and done.

old spring is right in blue and new spring is left in white

2025 Clutch Spring front

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 Clutch Spring back

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

clutch spring bushing

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 Rear Shock Absorber Upper Mount Bolt (x4) 90109-10194
this was probably the easiest to install. Just jack up the wheel, and replaced them one bolt at a time to avoid any potential movement, they are tapered so it shouldn't be an issue either way. The torque spec is 44 ft lbs

old bolt is left and new bolt is right with the 10

2025 rear shock bolt side

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 Rear Shock bolt top

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 rear shock bolts installed

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 Lower Ball Joint Bolts (x2): 90105-12429 - original post stated 4 but it's actually 2, I now have an extra 2 if anyone wants them, just pay shipping and they're yours. These took the longest to arrive, literally a month after I ordered them.
Install was easy, I did it one side at a time, jack up each side and remove the wheel, remove the bolt and reinstall. Also double check the ball joint nuts, one of them wasn't fully torqued down on the driver side. Torque spec is 66 ft lbs for bolt and nuts

old bolt is the right one and new bolt is the left with the red. both show 11 at the top but the new bolt has a little dot next to the 11

2025 Lower Ball Joint bolt side

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 lower ball joint side

• GizmoGR
• Mar 12, 2025

2025 Lower Ball Joint top

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 Lower Ball Joint bolt installed

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

2025 under tray full assembly 51410-12200
this has been covered so no need for pics

2025 under tray service cover 51405-12070 - I also ordered the service cover because they said the full assembly was on back order with no ETA and the service tray would arrive in a few days... full assembly arrived in 3 weeks, so I have the service cover sale if anyone is interested lol

my car is a 2024 Premium. After the install I took it for a drive and WOW, If I do say so myself the car feels... exactly the same. I wasn't expecting any difference, I mainly did it to have the latest parts to calm down my OCD and not sure why but I was kind of hoping the ball joint bolts would've solved a slight clunk I've been hunting down that occurs only when I'm reversing, it's kind of like something is shifting somewhere down there. I've retorqued the subframe, all visible bolts, installed the delta x pitch mount 70a, and unfortunately no luck...

Maybe some are more sensitive to the rigidity of the new parts and can feel some sort of difference or maybe when tracking the car or driving hard they become pronounced and noticeable. My car is a daily driver and I don't beat on it so I really didn't feel any difference.

Pic of my car

Bulge hood outside

• GizmoGR
• Mar 5, 2025

 

I was kind of hoping the ball joint bolts would've solved a slight clunk I've been hunting down that occurs only when I'm reversing, it's kind of like something is shifting somewhere down there. I've retorqued the subframe, all visible bolts, installed the delta x pitch mount 70a, and unfortunately no luck...

If it happens when a wheel begins to rotate, it could be a brake pad clunking back and forth in the caliper, but I would expect you'd likely hear it again moving forward.

 

@GizmoGR, thank you for the detailed post, very helpful!

Any noticeable changes due to the clutch spring replacement?

 

No problem! Glad I can help. Lord knows this forum has provided me with a ton of help lol.

As for the clutch spring I don't really feel a difference, but then again I don't track my car or really drive it hard. Per the press release notes it states "For 2025, the clutch system has been updated to focus on providing a snappier clutch pedal operation feel. Particularly on the pedal return stroke, the clutch characteristics have been tuned for excellent controllability even with quick starts and half-clutch operation." This makes sense because the spring only controls the return stroke, my guess is that when driving hard and popping the clutch it should snap back faster. For daily driving it feels the same to me.

 

I am ordering a new GR. The website shows a sub-radiator as an option only for the Premium,not for Core or Premium Plus. And it can be ordered only as part of an unspecified options package. The guys at the dealer think that the sub-radiator is an enhancement for the audio system! Can you explain?

 

It isn't an option for the PP because it is standard on the PP.

 

I FEEL THE SAME QUESTIONS ARE BEEN ASKED ON THIS FORM SECTION.

 

Thanks for the info,guys.

 

The hood bulge has been changed, does anyone know the part number?

 

Really? What's the difference?

 

Sorry, I might have misunderstood.
I thought watching a video of the MY2025 with bulges.
Maybe they were just explaining the difference with the CORE.

 

For the MY2025, there were quite a bit of revisions to the suspension as well as cooling. I have created this thread to document all parts that are compatible with MY2023 and MY2024 vehicles, pending actual confirmation. If any information is inaccurate, please let me know and I will address.

View attachment 30895

The ATF cooler will not be relevant to MY2023 and MY2024. The sub-radiator seems to provide auxiliary engine cooling, but it does not actively cool the transfer case. Quite honestly, it's better to get an aftermarket radiator as any cooler additions would require the MY2025 front fascia. If you are so inclined to retrofit the sub-radiator, see @st165's post below:

Sub-Radiator Part Numbers

The most interesting change is the transfer case cooling duct. Per Chief Engineer Naoyuki Sakamoto, this change will not solve the AWD overheat issues, but it should help.

Engine Service Cover with Duct: 51405-12070
Main Under Cover with Engine Service Cover: 51410-12200

View attachment 30894

These changes are all made to help reduce squat and dive; therefore, reducing understeer characteristics mid-corner and on the exit of corners. The rear sway bar was likely changed to accommodate the new springs. The most important change is the rear trailing arm mount as it is an actual suspension geometry change:

Front Shock Absorber (LH): 48520-80832
Front Shock Absorber (RH): 48510-80C88
Rear Shock Absorber (LH/RH): 48530-80B99
Rear Trailing Arm Mount (LH): 48727-06060
Rear Trailing Arm Mount (RH): 48717-06030
Rear Sway Bar: 48812-12580
Sway Bar Bushings (x2): 48818-12440
Rear Coil Spring (LH/RH): 48231-12N20

View attachment 30893

Finally, some more bolt changes to add rigidity to the suspension and steering system:

Lower Ball Joint Bolts (x4): 90105-12429
Steering Column Bolt (x1): 90119-10A34
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Mount Bolt (x4) 90109-10194

@KanmuriDavid

I think you only need 2 bolts for the Lower Ball Joint Bolts: 90105-12429

 

So the 2025 clutch return spring part number is not showing as an actual part on all the Toyota parts websites. Can someone verify that the part number is correct?
2025 Clutch Return Spring
31394-12090

 

31394-12090 is what I used... I called my dealer's parts dept, maybe they just don't list it online?

 

Ok so I am going to toss this in here just so people know for anyone doing the 2025 MY rear control arm brackets upgrade you do need the upper cover for it . Do not worry it’s not expensive part #
48753-06080 and 90 .

The original bracets are shallower and have a deep metal cover vs the new plastic ones. pics of the 23-24 ones to note size. Sorry do not have pic
of new one in car already😂

 

Ok so I am going to toss this in here just so people know for anyone doing the 2025 MY rear control arm brackets upgrade you do need the upper cover for it . Do not worry it’s not expensive part #
48753-06080 and 90 .

The original bracets are shallower and have a deep metal cover vs the new plastic ones. pics of the 23-24 ones to note size. Sorry do not have pic
of new one in car already😂

Did you change any other suspension bits or only install the RCA bracket and cover?

 

I installed the rear trailing arm mounts and the accompanying plastic covers (the metal dome covers no longer fit). Anyways, I am pleasantly surprised they make more of a difference than I expected. Rear end feels a little more predictable, and the rear end squat is nigh eliminated. The nice part is that it helps keep the front end a little more planted.

 

Is there anything required to install them other than bolt the trailing arms in? I'm interested. I see the trailing arm mounts listed. What other parts are required for this? TIA

Rear Trailing Arm Mount (LH): 48727-06060
Rear Trailing Arm Mount (RH): 48717-06030

 

The install is just nuts and bolts, so if doing typical suspension/chassis/brake work doesn't scare you then this shouldn't either. I pulled the trailing arms off with the original brackets and mounted them together on the bench. I used a 2x4 as a reference jig, comparing the original knuckle mounting points (two big bolt holes) with the original bracket to where they land with the the new bracket, but adjusted them to be about 0.8" higher to account for the drop I'll get with the Ohlins installed. This just means the bushings will have minimal or no twist preload when the car is settled. Made sure both bracket/arms were at identical angles after being torqued. The main bushing is inaccessible when its all installed, so might as well estimate it beforehand.

48727-06060​	Suspension Trailing Arm Bracket​
48717-06030​	Suspension Trailing Arm Bracket​
48753-06090​	Mount Bracket Cover​
48753-06080​	Mount Bracket Cover​

 

GR COROLLA | GR | TOYOTA GAZOO Racing

The GR Corolla was developed by putting into practice the concept of making ever-better motorsports-bred cars, emphasizing honing cars to win races and making them commercially available.

toyotagazooracing.com

TOYOTA GAZOO Racing Launches Evolved GR Corolla in Japan | PRESS RELEASE | TOYOTA GAZOO Racing

TOYOTA GAZOO Racing (TGR) has started accepting orders for its evolved GR Corolla, a model that leverages insights gained by competing in motorsports. Orders will be accepted through Toyota dealerships across Japan from today, February 4, and actual launch is planned for March 3.

toyotagazooracing.com

 

 

Like they said, yes, yeah, yeah.

If I understood that video correctly, are they releasing an upgrade parts kit?

 

Will upgrading to coilovers on the 25" GRC's be a good thing? I'm hesitant on messing with something that seems tuned very well from factory.

 

If OE suspension meets your needs, then no need to replace perfectly functioning parts. If you're going for a specific handling characteristic or looks, then it may be worth it.

 

Ok so I am going to toss this in here just so people know for anyone doing the 2025 MY rear control arm brackets upgrade you do need the upper cover for it . Do not worry it’s not expensive part #
48753-06080 and 90 .

The original bracets are shallower and have a deep metal cover vs the new plastic ones. pics of the 23-24 ones to note size. Sorry do not have pic
of new one in car already😂

View attachment 35905
View attachment 35904

The install is just nuts and bolts, so if doing typical suspension/chassis/brake work doesn't scare you then this shouldn't either. I pulled the trailing arms off with the original brackets and mounted them together on the bench. I used a 2x4 as a reference jig, comparing the original knuckle mounting points (two big bolt holes) with the original bracket to where they land with the the new bracket, but adjusted them to be about 0.8" higher to account for the drop I'll get with the Ohlins installed. This just means the bushings will have minimal or no twist preload when the car is settled. Made sure both bracket/arms were at identical angles after being torqued. The main bushing is inaccessible when its all installed, so might as well estimate it beforehand.

48727-06060​	Suspension Trailing Arm Bracket​
48717-06030​	Suspension Trailing Arm Bracket​
48753-06090​	Mount Bracket Cover​
48753-06080​	Mount Bracket Cover​

im finally installing these this weekend. along with the rigid collars. anyways on an FB group someone put up the FSM on how to install these. did you guys follow it?
this is for MY25

this is for MY23

mounting point is 30mm higher but the arm is 95mm lower...

 

im finally installing these this weekend. along with the rigid collars. anyways on an FB group someone put up the FSM on how to install these. did you guys follow it?
this is for MY25

I did not follow the FSM precisely, but may have indirectly. I bolted the mounting cups and arms using an quick jig I made with 2x4s that would provide consistent measurements with both L and R arms. I took the original arm position and angle, and did some math that made sense at the time that would approximate a "neutral" position with the new brackets and the car lowered ~20-25mm.

edit- OK now I see what you mean. The measurement A is from the same flat mounting surface on both mounts, regardless of the arm's mounting point. In the '25 FSM they're telling you to mount the arm at an angle that puts the arm's upper bolt hole nearly 4 inches lower than it is on the '23 FSM. Something seems off.

 

okay i made a better jig and measured 141mm
so this whole procedure but not for GR measure A use for torque specs

this is MY23-24 length A

MY25 length A

 

Nice detective work, that sounds far more reasonable. I know my installation was closer to this, around an inch or so of difference. I used visual markings for reference instead of these dimensions.

 

Toyota Improves 2026 GR Corolla With A Clever Trick | Carscoops

The updated hot hatch gets a stronger body, extra cooling, upgraded sound system, and more supply in Japan without raising prices

www.carscoops.com