Not sure why people would be against ET lugs either.. The only time I've heard it fail was due to not being installed properly because the ET part didn't fit in the lug hole, but that's just user error. Apart from that, obviously it's not as friendly with aftermarket options, but that's why we do research.

If you're planning on keeping the OEM wheels as another set, that's the only thing you have to consider when extending your studs. I'm not aware of anyone being able to run them with close ended lugs, so that is something to consider.

There's other benefits of running extended studs, but for road/daily use, it's negligible. If all your concern is getting enough thread engagement, get the right ET lugs.

The H&R ET lugs should work with Enkeis as long as you don't get some odd or old model. Which one are you getting?

Also, what do you mean by smaller spacers on the rear? Are you planning on using a thinner spacer than OEM?

 

What do you mean by “not as friendly with aftermarket options”?
I am also thinking about getting h&r lugs from performance.

 

Not as friendly as in your average ET lug nut won't work with a lot of wheels because their lug holes are too small. The average lug hole size for most wheels is 15mm. The only ET lug nut that I've found so far that fits under that is the H&R one. Any other ET lug nut I've found is larger than 15mm. Hence why it limits you to certain wheel brands.

 

I agree with @alamsas on the H&R ET lug nuts. I have Konig mg's 18x9.5 +25 (stock studs F&R) and ran into an issue where none of the sellers had the ET lug nuts with an outer diameter below 15mm, only H&R had 14.7mm which was only available in the UK. It took 2 weeks or so to get delivered and they work perfectly.

 

Keep in mind that the rear track width takes the 10mm spacers into consideration, so if you bolt up a square setup the F/R fitment will be different.

Running more neg camber up front (more track/handling alignment) might offset the wider front track width. That said, I hate the idea of adjusting camber for looks. However, adding a degree of negative camber or so might put the top edge about 10mm more inboard, making the front fitment to the fender more similar to the rear fitment to the fender (if the rear isn't using spacers).