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High end audio build

954 Views 30 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Manic1!
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Just wanted to come on here and document this audio build for a client of mine, and hopefully offer some useful info and inspiration to some of you here. I was presented with the opportunity to take on this project and I jumped on it as soon as I could. I've been highly considering making a GR purchase myself. This is probably going to the thing that pushes me in that direction. Before I get into the details of the system, here's some quick info on myself. I am co owner of Car Stereo Specialists in Hilo Hawaii. I've been in the car audio and automotive industry for over 20 years. I've done just about everything imaginable in car audio but these, slightly high end, daily driver systems are the ones I really enjoy building.

This system is built fully with Morel audio products, which happens to be one of my favorite brands. The client left the system design and product choices up to me ( I've done previous systems for him and he knows that I understand his style of audio). He isn't planning on tracking the car or too concerned with saving weight. That makes my job a little easier. I do not want to cut, splice, modify, any wiring or big panels that would be costly to replace. The biggest modification would be building custom a pillars to hold the midrange and tweeter, but I did purchase new oem standard Corolla panels that are getting modified. That way he can save the original JBL a pillars incase the car needs to go back to original. Everything else will be done using t harnesses and oem mounting points ( aside from a few small things which you'll see) Pics and updates of the build will come as I go through the car. As for the products going in, here's the list

Morel Hybrid 603 6.5 inch 3 way component set - front ( running fully active)
Morel Hybrid integra 602 - rear
2X Morel Primo 8 inch subwoofer
2X Morel MPS 5.950 5 channel amp ( one running the left side of the car, the other running the right)
Mosconi 8to12 aerospace DSP
Mosconi Mini RC controller
Morel Acudamp sound dampening material ( 3 different types)
Custom built amp rack, subwoofer enclosure, a pillars
Oem headunit integration will either be done with the Mosconi DSP or I will add in a Pac Audio AP4 or ADS DSR1

Here's a quick peek at the start of the amp rack and electronics lay out. Amp rack is built with 1/2 PVC sheets. Very durable and light weight. The rack is bolted in using factory mounting points, aside from one spot where I put in a nutsert to thread another bolt in. More pics and info coming soon
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Why not just remove the OEM JBL amp? Meso detailed how to do that on here.
He’s bypassing it, but using the OEM wiring
Why not just remove the OEM JBL amp? Meso detailed how to do that on here.
Yes that is what I'm doing in this system. Technically the JBL amp is staying in the car so there is can bus communication with the headhunt. Meso did use the DSR1 to remove the JBL amp, that does work but there are still some quirks and missing functions as of right now. I also have the DSR1 and we have both verified that there are still some things that won't function properly. The DSR1 completely removes the JBL amplifier which interrupts part of the can bus communications. I'm currently using the PAC Audio AP4-TY13 to bypass the JBL amp and get Toslink ( fiber optic) output that I can send into the DSP. The only issue with the PAC Audio piece as of right now is no Siri prompts on CarPlay, which my customer is ok with for now. I've been working with PAC to make updates to the AP$ to support newer Toyota vehicles. I'll be posting up all of that soon
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You can also buy the pins Toyota uses and add them to each side of the molex and then it’s still removable. Realistically, the OEM wire is PLENTY big enough for a midbass driver even with a LOT of power
That is definitely the way to go! I would've done that if I needed to feed more power through the factory wiring
Yes that is what I'm doing in this system. Technically the JBL amp is staying in the car so there is can bus communication with the headhunt. Meso did use the DSR1 to remove the JBL amp, that does work but there are still some quirks and missing functions as of right now. I also have the DSR1 and we have both verified that there are still some things that won't function properly. The DSR1 completely removes the JBL amplifier which interrupts part of the can bus communications. I'm currently using the PAC Audio AP4-TY13 to bypass the JBL amp and get Toslink ( fiber optic) output that I can send into the DSP. The only issue with the PAC Audio piece as of right now is no Siri prompts on CarPlay, which my customer is ok with for now. I've been working with PAC to make updates to the AP$ to support newer Toyota vehicles. I'll be posting up all of that soon
I think I’m just going to use a Maestro and replace the HU entirely. I can’t stand the UI anyway
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Todays update is a 90% finished and wired amp rack. Just waiting for the toslink cable to come in. I also want to straighten up some of the connections into the amps just to make it a little cleaner. The second pic is the underside of the rack, just to show the wires are all tied up and clean. One thing to look out for if you're adding amplifiers to the stock battery terminal, there's only one spot you can safely add a power on without going through the factory fusible links on the battery terminals. You don't want to add any more amperage draw through those factory fuses. If you pop one of them, you'll have to change the entire terminal setup. If anyone wants more details on that, I'll take some pics and get it up.

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Todays update is a 90% finished and wired amp rack. Just waiting for the toslink cable to come in. I also want to straighten up some of the connections into the amps just to make it a little cleaner. The second pic is the underside of the rack, just to show the wires are all tied up and clean. One thing to look out for if you're adding amplifiers to the stock battery terminal, there's only one spot you can safely add a power on without going through the factory fusible links on the battery terminals. You don't want to add any more amperage draw through those factory fuses. If you pop one of them, you'll have to change the entire terminal setup. If anyone wants more details on that, I'll take some pics and get it up.

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This is absolutely amazing. Not to be nosey but what does something like this cost?
This is absolutely amazing. Not to be nosey but what does something like this cost?
this particular system would be around 10K. That's including all the products, materials, labor and custom built amp rack, subwoofer enclosure, and a pillar panels
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Just posted on my instagram page, a video detailing more of the integration portion of this system. Just search my user name on IG and you should find me there. You'll know the video when you see it. I also have more videos on there detailing things about this system.
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Now for some of the fun custom stuff. Finished up the custom a pillars for the midrange and tweeter
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This is great. Plan on doing a 3 way active front stage and subs when I get my car. have most of the audio equipment already.
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