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High end audio build

1254 Views 30 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Manic1!
Just wanted to come on here and document this audio build for a client of mine, and hopefully offer some useful info and inspiration to some of you here. I was presented with the opportunity to take on this project and I jumped on it as soon as I could. I've been highly considering making a GR purchase myself. This is probably going to the thing that pushes me in that direction. Before I get into the details of the system, here's some quick info on myself. I am co owner of Car Stereo Specialists in Hilo Hawaii. I've been in the car audio and automotive industry for over 20 years. I've done just about everything imaginable in car audio but these, slightly high end, daily driver systems are the ones I really enjoy building.

This system is built fully with Morel audio products, which happens to be one of my favorite brands. The client left the system design and product choices up to me ( I've done previous systems for him and he knows that I understand his style of audio). He isn't planning on tracking the car or too concerned with saving weight. That makes my job a little easier. I do not want to cut, splice, modify, any wiring or big panels that would be costly to replace. The biggest modification would be building custom a pillars to hold the midrange and tweeter, but I did purchase new oem standard Corolla panels that are getting modified. That way he can save the original JBL a pillars incase the car needs to go back to original. Everything else will be done using t harnesses and oem mounting points ( aside from a few small things which you'll see) Pics and updates of the build will come as I go through the car. As for the products going in, here's the list

Morel Hybrid 603 6.5 inch 3 way component set - front ( running fully active)
Morel Hybrid integra 602 - rear
2X Morel Primo 8 inch subwoofer
2X Morel MPS 5.950 5 channel amp ( one running the left side of the car, the other running the right)
Mosconi 8to12 aerospace DSP
Mosconi Mini RC controller
Morel Acudamp sound dampening material ( 3 different types)
Custom built amp rack, subwoofer enclosure, a pillars
Oem headunit integration will either be done with the Mosconi DSP or I will add in a Pac Audio AP4 or ADS DSR1

Here's a quick peek at the start of the amp rack and electronics lay out. Amp rack is built with 1/2 PVC sheets. Very durable and light weight. The rack is bolted in using factory mounting points, aside from one spot where I put in a nutsert to thread another bolt in. More pics and info coming soon
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Hey i miss your SC man! I still have mine but the thought of selling it has come across my mind lately. Love the work you do though, cant wait to see how this turns out!
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Someone linked to this thread in one of the FB GR groups and I joined specifically for this thread. I’ll be using mostly, if not entirely Arc Audio gear, but they layout will be very similar. I can’t wait to see the progress 🤙🤙
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Hey i miss your SC man! I still have mine but the thought of selling it has come across my mind lately. Love the work you do though, cant wait to see how this turns out!
It's so crazy to see people on here from other forums! I miss it too. hopefully the new owner will finish it up and get it on the road.
Thanks man! I'm gonna be making a move to Colorado so I'm starting to post on forums again and maybe pick up a little business at the same time lol
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Someone linked to this thread in one of the FB GR groups and I joined specifically for this thread. I’ll be using mostly, if not entirely Arc Audio gear, but they layout will be very similar. I can’t wait to see the progress 🤙🤙
NIce! Arc makes some great products too. I used to be a dealer for them years ago
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Yes they do! I first met the crew about 20 years ago. Got a chance to help on some of their demo vehicles and the Barris builds, but was never able to get the time off for Overhaulin’ though. Huge regret there.
I saw you’re headed to Colorado? I’m here for training for another week or two. It would be awesome to meet up 🤙
OK so here's a better look at the amp rack and how it's mounted. I used 2 factory 12mm threaded holes that were't being used for anything, and added one nutsert in the center brace that goes across the tire well. I used the same size and thread pitch so I can keep the bolts all the same. The sides are built up to support the floor since I removed the oem foam that was previously supporting the floor. I made some 4 inch holes in the bracing to allow heat and air to pass in and out and not be trapped under the floor. I may add a few fans as well. I added t nuts to the back of the rack so I can easily take the amps and processor in and out, and not worry about the plastic material stripping away. T nuts are basically threaded inserts that press into your material and gives you the ability to use better mounting hardware and not worry about stripping away material. On the right side of the trunk I have a double layered pvc brace that is held to the car with strong Neo magnets. There were no factory threaded spots on that side, and I didn't want to make a big bracket to hold it. The magnets do the trick and also make it easy to remove. All that brace is for is floor support.


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On to the door prep and speaker installs. I did full sound deadening in the front and rear doors using all three different deadening materials that Morel has available. The front doors were very straight forward. Deadening the inner and outer skin, as well as the door panels. The front doors have a big plastic access plate that covers up the big opening in the door so there was no need to get creative to fill in that area. The rear doors just had the traditional vapor barrier that I removed and used as a template to make my own block off plates out of 1/4 inch HDPE. I did drill and insert nutserts into he rear doors to hold the panels in, but that does make the door serviceable. Most people would just apply sound deadener over the big openings but that isn't really solid enough. Also makes it a pain if you ever need to access anything inside of the door. You'll basically have to cut away your deadener to get in there. I also punched holes out in the deadener to allow access for all of the nuts and clips on the door. I really wanted to run new wiring into the doors but the molex plugs are pretty tight and I didn't want to drill out those plugs so I used some adapter plugs to plug into the factory speaker plugs. That will be sufficient for the power that's going to the speakers. As for mounting the speakers, it's still the standard Toyota 6.5 inch mount that's been used for over a decade. I would normally build my own mounts for high end speakers but these Toyota mounts that we bring in are solid plastic all the way through. It's super solid and saved me a bunch of time.
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Yes they do! I first met the crew about 20 years ago. Got a chance to help on some of their demo vehicles and the Barris builds, but was never able to get the time off for Overhaulin’ though. Huge regret there.
I saw you’re headed to Colorado? I’m here for training for another week or two. It would be awesome to meet up 🤙
That's awesome! A friend of mine was the Hawaii rep for Arc, he had me in line to fly up to do an overhaulin car but right after that Arc dropped out and kicker took over (n) Yeah I'm heading up there in a few weeks for a visit but I'm putting things together to make a move up there and hopefully start a new shop.
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How did you bypass the molex connector in the door jamb in order to wire the speakers? Or did you tap into the OEM wiring?
Ah I see his post above now. Don't know how I missed it.

I figured that crossovers wouldn't work with the factory wiring without bypassing the molex.
How did you bypass the molex connector in the door jamb in order to wire the speakers? Or did you tap into the OEM wiring?
I didn't bypass the stock wiring in the molex plugs. I have a t harness adapter that plugs in at the JBL amp. That's where I'm able to feed signal to the doors. The front 3 way speaker set is being crossed over actively ( electronic crossover in the DSP) Each front speaker has its own channel of power ( 6 channels just for the front stage). The rear speakers do have a passive crossover that take the factory speaker wire input and then sends power to the mid bass and tweeter. I'll be posting pictures of the t harness set up soon
I thought you couldn't do that if you used a crossover.
I didn't bypass the stock wiring in the molex plugs. I have a t harness adapter that plugs in at the JBL amp. That's where I'm able to feed signal to the doors. The front 3 way speaker set is being crossed over actively ( electronic crossover in the DSP) Each front speaker has its own channel of power ( 6 channels just for the front stage). The rear speakers do have a passive crossover that take the factory speaker wire input and then sends power to the mid bass and tweeter. I'll be posting pictures of the t harness set up soon
Awesome. Thank you for the replies. Been trying to figure out a way to do a 2 way component set up front and it's been a nightmare for a car audio newbie like me.
How did you bypass the molex connector in the door jamb in order to wire the speakers? Or did you tap into the OEM wiring?
the only way to run new wiring through the molex is to drill new holes in both sides of the connector. There is a small empty space in the middle where no pins are located. Tight… but works out if you plan on upgrading to a heavier duty AWG for door speakers
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I also forgot to mention.
Awesome. Thank you for the replies. Been trying to figure out a way to do a 2 way component set up front and it's been a nightmare for a car audio newbie like me.
If you have the JBL system with 3 way front speakers it won't be that bad. The tweeter and mid bass is fed from one channel of the amp, and the midrange is fed from another channel. You could put your crossover under the seat with the JBL amp, use the wires that feed the factory midrange and use that for your tweeter. Then use the wire that feeds the factory mid bass and tweeter to feed your mid bass. Just disconnect the factory tweeter, but you will need an adapter to plug to back in where you disconnected the tweeter because the tweeter being plugged in completes the circuit that feeds the mid bass. This may sound a little confusing but it's actually really simple once you figure it out lol. You can always call my shop and I can try and walk you through things over the phone. Shoot me a DM if you wanna do that
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I also forgot to mention.

If you have the JBL system with 3 way front speakers it won't be that bad. The tweeter and mid bass is fed from one channel of the amp, and the midrange is fed from another channel. You could put your crossover under the seat with the JBL amp, use the wires that feed the factory midrange and use that for your tweeter. Then use the wire that feeds the factory mid bass and tweeter to feed your mid bass. Just disconnect the factory tweeter, but you will need an adapter to plug to back in where you disconnected the tweeter because the tweeter being plugged in completes the circuit that feeds the mid bass. This may sound a little confusing but it's actually really simple once you figure it out lol. You can always call my shop and I can try and walk you through things over the phone. Shoot me a DM if you wanna do that
Why not just remove the OEM JBL amp? Meso detailed how to do that on here.
the only way to run new wiring through the molex is to drill new holes in both sides of the connector. There is a small empty space in the middle where no pins are located. Tight… but works out if you plan on upgrading to a heavier duty AWG for door speakers
View attachment 11871
You can also buy the pins Toyota uses and add them to each side of the molex and then it’s still removable. Realistically, the OEM wire is PLENTY big enough for a midbass driver even with a LOT of power
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