Decided to fill up today with 98 miles to empty because the route to my destination and back didn't contain any E85 stations.

Open the link below to get started.

Linear interpolation calculator

Online calculator for linear interpolation and extrapolation. Given two (x, y) pairs and an additional x or y, compute the missing value.

www.johndcook.com

For me, I have a few previous examples from filling up. X = miles to empty, Y = fuel level in %.
X = 11 miles, Y = 14%
X = 22 miles, Y = 17%
X = 98 miles, Y =

Leave the last Y value blank, and click the "Calculate" button.

At 98 miles, the linear interpolation calculated the fuel level to be 37.73%. I used 38% in the online ethanol mix calculator. Started with E34, ended with E34. YMMV.

 

Clutch slipped twice while driving to work a week ago. Guess the extra torque from E30 tune took a toll on it. I still have never launched my GRC. Currently at ~7,000 miles on the odometer. Started 93 octane tune at 2,368 miles back in March 2024. Been rocking the E30 tune (multiple revisions) since July 2024.

I'm leaning towards getting a Clutch Masters FX250 and keeping the factory dual-mass flywheel. The FX250 is rated for 425 lb-ft of torque at the flywheel [source #1]. Stratified video stated their customer's GRC dynoed ~350whp/350wtq on E30 + Eventuri intake [source #2]. I have those mods plus an intercooler. Guesstimating, 350 lb-ft of torque at the wheels / 0.84 (~16% drivetrain loss) = 417 lb-ft of torque at flywheel. Doesn't leave much of a ceiling for any future power mods.

A brief search of the forum shows several other owners have upgraded to X-clutches with single-mass flywheels. There is a complaint of noise at idle until the clutch is disengaged. My GRC is a daily driver, so I'm keeping the dual-mass flywheel. I didn't find anybody with the Exedy clutch yet.

Things to buy for a clutch replacement:

• Clutch Masters FX250 (pressure plate + clutch disc)
• 3L of transmission fluid
• 1L of transfer case fluid
• 8 flywheel bolts
• 2 front axle nuts

Things to consider:

• Existing dual-mass flywheel will need to be machined per Clutch Masters FX250 recommendations.
• Re-using existing pilot bearing
• Re-using existing throwout bearing
• Re-using existing front subframe bolts
• Will need a front-end alignment afterwards

Am I missing anything? I plan on replacing the clutch myself using a 2-post lift. Any feedback here would be appreciated.

 

Clutch slipped twice while driving to work a week ago. Guess the extra torque from E30 tune took a toll on it. I still have never launched my GRC. Currently at ~7,000 miles on the odometer. Started 93 octane tune at 2,368 miles back in March 2024. Been rocking the E30 tune (multiple revisions) since July 2024.

I'm leaning towards getting a Clutch Masters FX250 and keeping the factory dual-mass flywheel. The FX250 is rated for 425 lb-ft of torque at the flywheel [source #1]. Stratified video stated their customer's GRC dynoed ~350whp/350wtq on E30 + Eventuri intake [source #2]. I have those mods plus an intercooler. Guesstimating, 350 lb-ft of torque at the wheels / 0.84 (~16% drivetrain loss) = 417 lb-ft of torque at flywheel. Doesn't leave much of a ceiling for any future power mods.

A brief search of the forum shows several other owners have upgraded to X-clutches with single-mass flywheels. There is a complaint of noise at idle until the clutch is disengaged. My GRC is a daily driver, so I'm keeping the dual-mass flywheel. I didn't find anybody with the Exedy clutch yet.

Things to buy for a clutch replacement:

• Clutch Masters FX250 (pressure plate + clutch disc)
• 3L of transmission fluid
• 1L of transfer case fluid
• 8 flywheel bolts
• 2 front axle nuts

Things to consider:

• Existing dual-mass flywheel will need to be machined per Clutch Masters FX250 recommendations.
• Re-using existing pilot bearing
• Re-using existing throwout bearing
• Re-using existing front subframe bolts
• Will need a front-end alignment afterwards

Am I missing anything? I plan on replacing the clutch myself using a 2-post lift. Any feedback here would be appreciated.

Maybe oil seals for the driveshafts?

 

Yet another clutch option for my GR Corolla. Retains the factory dual-mass flywheel, and it doesn't require any flywheel machining. It's a twin disc setup, and uniclutch states does not have the typical chatter of similar twin discs.

UniClutch Twin Disc 550 Ft Lb Performance Clutch Kit

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UCLUC0824100U02

 

I'm actually going to install the uniclutch one this month!

 

Ended up ordering the UniClutch Track clutch along with a fitment kit since the manufacturer doesn't recommend the Standard or Sport variants for the GRC's AWD drivetrain. For now, I will keep the OE dual-mass flywheel.

 

Good call on the OEM flywheel. I talked with a time attack GR Yaris owner from Taiwan recently, and he said single mass flywheels have contributed to the synchro hub failures due to the vibrations and stress a SMF brings, even with Cusco synchro hubs. He suggests sticking with the DMF for reliability.

 

Did you get your new clutch installed?

 

Working on it now since I was finally able to take some vacation. Got the transmission dropped tonight. Took tons of photos and will be posting a how-to when I’m done.

 

Finished the clutch swap. Took her for a drive late tonight. Clutch pedal effort is stock, maybe a little less than stock. Engagement is fairly low, but the OE clutch was too. Drove 2 miles and put it back in the shop. No clutch noise at idle. Can't drive it more until I book an alignment appointment.

Give me a few days for building my clutch how-to page. I took TONS of photos and the write-up will be substantial.

Thanks to Uniclutch for making this beast of a clutch available to GRC enthusiasts. I've heard a few horror stories on the other clutches out there.

 

Appreciate you sharing the info!! Takes a lot of time to document what you did.

 

Pictures along the way:
UniClutch Track installed. More information here.

Notes:
1) Several wiring connectors/plugs need to be temporarily disconnected (battery negative, MAF, transmission reverse switch, neutral switch, grounds, etc.).
2) Note this installation is slightly different than a stock GRC because I already have an Eventuri intake installed. Your mileage may vary.
3) Transfer case does not get removed individually. Leave all the bolts/nuts tight. Transfer case comes out attached to the transmission.
4) I purchased but did not change any of the axle seals (transmission/transfer case) because they were not damaged, and my GRC only had 7,218 miles on it.
5) Scan bar code on the UniClutch assembly to register the product. Scan adapter kit bar code for specific instructions to build UniClutch for the GRC.
6) Weights = OE pressure plate + clutch disc = 13.4 lb. UniClutch + adapter ring = 17.0 lb. Added weight = 3.6 lb.
7) Immediately after clutch install is complete, get an alignment because the front suspension and steering are all out of whack now.
8) UniClutch calls for a 500 km clutch break-in period. That's 310 miles for us yanks.
9) Steps & torque specs were pulled from GRC Manual on TIS. Yes I downloaded the entire manual, and no you can't have a copy.
10) Total of (221) images on my personal build site with more information to complete the install.

 

+1 for your organization and detail in all your posts btw.

 

Here's an update to my ECUTEK datalog results. It appears my clutch slipped during the 2nd datalog run on 09/22/24.
The (2) datalog runs today are after I installed a UniClutch and Stratified sent a new RaceROM Tune file after my dealer completed an ECU reflash to fix TSB-008423.

https://hanksgr.com/HanksGR_Datalog_Results.pdf

 

I’m curious how the new clutch feels once you’ve put some time in with it. I have not been a fan of the stock one. It feels vague and sometimes inconsistent.

 

So far I've accumulated 1200 miles on the UniClutch Track in my GRC. It has no issue holding the added torque (~350 wtq) from the E30 tune in any gear. However, I would not recommend it for a daily driver. It is a bit frustrating at times due to the harsh engagement (chatter) from a dead stop. All up/down gear changes are flawless and iMT still works perfectly. After the clutch has "warmed up", it starts to make noise at idle in neutral while the clutch is engaged (pedal up). It's not exactly a rock crusher, but you can hear it inside the cabin with the windows up and the sound system on a low/medium level. Some folks know that I put up with a lot of NVH because of my 2016 Focus RS track weapon (solid motor/trans mounts, balance shaft delete, no mufflers, etc.). This is a perfect track clutch. I just don't want someone taking my word for it that gets stuck in daily traffic each way for work. I completed 500 miles of zero boost for a proper break-in. The factory hydraulic clutch doesn't have much (if any) adjustment per the manual. I may try bleeding it again. Because of the multi-puck twin disc design, it will never be as smooth like an organic disc engagement. But it will hold 980 lb-ft of torque, so there's that. Is there a better clutch out there for me? My research says no.

 

Pictures along the way:
Drag Racing results 01/19/25. More information here.

Notes:
1) Ran a total of (7) passes trying out different things for the best time/speed.
2) Best passes = 12.703@110.92mph, 12.754@110.32mph.
3) Shifted 6800-7000rpm 1-2, 2-3, 3-4. No lift shift 3rd to 4th.
4) 3/8 tank blended E30. Ethanol Content Analyzer displayed E34.
5) DA -1352ft to -1159ft. Ambient temp 45-46F.
6) UniClutch Track held strong. No issues.
7) 60ft times are pathetic. Cold track temp. Some racers were bringing water onto the starting line. Would benefit from drag radials.
8) Need to work on getting ECUTEK launch control working correctly. Stratified sent me a revised tune with 5000 rpm launch to try next time.

 

Had a friendly run-in with a Dodge Charger 392 Hemi today. I thought it would be able to keep up a little better than this. Had fun though. Don't know the guy. I'm sure he's scratching his head because my rear hatch is de-badged. Something from Toyota just put BUS LENGTHS on his 6.4L Hemi. My wife asked "you did not just do that" after I had temporarily put my flashers on. Hemi flashed his lights in response. LOL.

1.6L 99 cubic inches 3 cylinder GRC + Stratified E30 tune = BEAST MODE

 

my rear hatch is de-badged.

100% way to run this car. I run without the side badges as well.

Love the video.

 

Nice numbers! I’m ready for the strip again too. Just got my car back from limit+1 and urw automotive in Chicago (1800 mile drive lol) so I can’t wait to see what it will do. 360whp on 91 with a full top end build (valve springs, cams, rocker retainers and head studs), new fmic, eventuri intake, down pipe and an artec 400 turbo.

Will tune for e50 after ecutek updates for injectors. Torque is similar to yours already so I’ll need to be nice to the transmission when that’s all done.

 

i saw this when it was first posted. Put a chuckle on my face.
just watched it again…. Still puts a smile on my face.

 

Pictures along the way:
Front Bumper Fix installed. More information here.

Notes:
1) No wiring plugs have to be temporarily disconnected for this modification.
2) I recommend installing shims on both sides, even if only one side of your GRC front bumper is giving you issues.
3) This mod is completely reversible if by some miracle your front bumper stops popping out all by itself.