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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A bit premature when none of us have a car yet? Maybe. But i figured I’d get this party started. Discuss part weights, weight reduction options, etc. The weight of the stock GRC is said to be 3250lbs…which isn’t crazy heavy but it’s a bit porky for a small car. Ideally trimming it down to under 3000lbs would be a good target.

Body:
Most of the body panels are already lightweight material such as the aluminum hood,, doors are aluminum(according to press release), rear hatch is plastic, and carbon roof (at least for CE…). Nothing about the fenders being aluminum in the press release but the GRY has them so maybe.
Lightweight or modified bumper supports/crash bars might be able to cut a bit of weight, though my understanding is it’s pretty lightweight aluminum.

Wheels:
The GRY wheels are 23lbs (standard cast) or 18.25lbs (Forged BBS Circuit Edition) … I expect the GRC wheels will be a bit heavier maybe 24+lbs since they are wider at 18x8.5 (vs 18x8.0) and cast. Aftermarket 18” wheels in the sub-20lb range are available which is a great way to save some unsprung rotational weight.

Suspension:
A few pounds might be saved switching to aftermarket coilovers, though that Willing be the primary reason to upgrade to them. Maybe the aftermarket will come up with other lightweight suspension components (a-arms, etc) as well.

Interior:
This page has a good list of weights of many of the stock GRY interior parts, most of which presumably will be similar/same ballpark on the GRC. Some decent weight can be saved by depending on how much you’re willing to take out/how much livability you’re willing to sacrifice… Rear seats, tire repair kit/tools, door panels, headliner, sound system, carpet. I hope once people starting getting their GRCs, they can post weights of interior components on this thread.
Pretty popular on a lot of hatchbacks is Rear Wiper delete but it’s only like 5lbs and then you dont have the ability to wipe snow/road spray off if you drive in adverse conditions.
The battery being in the trunk is optimal for weight distribution, but its still pretty heavy…lithium batteries are pretty good these days and will save about 25-30lbs.

Exhaust:
The GRC exhaust looks pretty simple with minimal mufflers/resonators so not sure how much lighter an aftermarket system would be. But we will see what the aftermarket comes up with.

The Big Nut Behind The Steering Wheel:
I’ll say it. Some people could use actual WeightWatchers.
 

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A bit premature when none of us have a car yet? Maybe. But i figured I’d get this party started. Discuss part weights, weight reduction options, etc. The weight of the stock GRC is said to be 3250lbs…which isn’t crazy heavy but it’s a bit porky for a small car. Ideally trimming it down to under 3000lbs would be a good target.

Body:
Most of the body panels are already lightweight material such as the aluminum hood,, doors are aluminum(according to press release), rear hatch is plastic, and carbon roof (at least for CE…). Nothing about the fenders being aluminum in the press release but the GRY has them so maybe.
Lightweight or modified bumper supports/crash bars might be able to cut a bit of weight, though my understanding is it’s pretty lightweight aluminum.

Wheels:
The GRY wheels are 23lbs (standard cast) or 18.25lbs (Forged BBS Circuit Edition) … I expect the GRC wheels will be a bit heavier maybe 24+lbs since they are wider at 18x8.5 (vs 18x8.0) and cast. Aftermarket 18” wheels in the sub-20lb range are available which is a great way to save some unsprung rotational weight.

Suspension:
A few pounds might be saved switching to aftermarket coilovers, though that Willing be the primary reason to upgrade to them. Maybe the aftermarket will come up with other lightweight suspension components (a-arms, etc) as well.

Interior:
This page has a good list of weights of many of the stock GRY interior parts, most of which presumably will be similar/same ballpark on the GRC. Some decent weight can be saved by depending on how much you’re willing to take out/how much livability you’re willing to sacrifice… Rear seats, tire repair kit/tools, door panels, headliner, sound system, carpet. I hope once people starting getting their GRCs, they can post weights of interior components on this thread.
Pretty popular on a lot of hatchbacks is Rear Wiper delete but it’s only like 5lbs and then you dont have the ability to wipe snow/road spray off if you drive in adverse conditions.
The battery being in the trunk is optimal for weight distribution, but its still pretty heavy…lithium batteries are pretty good these days and will save about 25-30lbs.

Exhaust:
The GRC exhaust looks pretty simple with minimal mufflers/resonators so not sure how much lighter an aftermarket system would be. But we will see what the aftermarket comes up with.

The Big Nut Behind The Steering Wheel:
I’ll say it. Some people could use actual WeightWatchers.
Remember that Lithium and AGM batteries usually take higher than normal charging voltages and if you do not supply that it usually kills their overall life. I have a dual AGM setup in my 4runner but I have to run a voltage booster to supply that higher voltage and still keep it on a NOCO battery maintainer when not in use for a few days. If not your $400 battery will be no good in a year or so.

Weight reduction is definitely possible if you can live without AC or an interior. My friend got his 350z down to 2900lbs, but he removed everything in the interior except drivers seat and gauge cluster and fabbed up OEM chassis bracing parts replacements from aluminum. We are sort of total opposites(I have a G35). He is obsessed with weight reduction to an extreme level and my goal is max power. So far what I have found is that though weight reduction helps; especially off the line, you can usually overcome the weight more easily with more power with maybe adding a couple lbs of boost more. I don't think it is worth the sacrifice of comforts. Once you reach a level where more power cannot be achieved, then weight becomes more of a factor. He also has more traction problems with less weight in the back. In autox, weight may have more effects on handling aspects than in a straight line race.
 

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A bit premature when none of us have a car yet? Maybe. But i figured I’d get this party started. Discuss part weights, weight reduction options, etc. The weight of the stock GRC is said to be 3250lbs…which isn’t crazy heavy but it’s a bit porky for a small car. Ideally trimming it down to under 3000lbs would be a good target.

Body:
Most of the body panels are already lightweight material such as the aluminum hood,, doors are aluminum(according to press release), rear hatch is plastic, and carbon roof (at least for CE…). Nothing about the fenders being aluminum in the press release but the GRY has them so maybe.
Lightweight or modified bumper supports/crash bars might be able to cut a bit of weight, though my understanding is it’s pretty lightweight aluminum.

Wheels:
The GRY wheels are 23lbs (standard cast) or 18.25lbs (Forged BBS Circuit Edition) … I expect the GRC wheels will be a bit heavier maybe 24+lbs since they are wider at 18x8.5 (vs 18x8.0) and cast. Aftermarket 18” wheels in the sub-20lb range are available which is a great way to save some unsprung rotational weight.

Suspension:
A few pounds might be saved switching to aftermarket coilovers, though that Willing be the primary reason to upgrade to them. Maybe the aftermarket will come up with other lightweight suspension components (a-arms, etc) as well.

Interior:
This page has a good list of weights of many of the stock GRY interior parts, most of which presumably will be similar/same ballpark on the GRC. Some decent weight can be saved by depending on how much you’re willing to take out/how much livability you’re willing to sacrifice… Rear seats, tire repair kit/tools, door panels, headliner, sound system, carpet. I hope once people starting getting their GRCs, they can post weights of interior components on this thread.
Pretty popular on a lot of hatchbacks is Rear Wiper delete but it’s only like 5lbs and then you dont have the ability to wipe snow/road spray off if you drive in adverse conditions.
The battery being in the trunk is optimal for weight distribution, but its still pretty heavy…lithium batteries are pretty good these days and will save about 25-30lbs.

Exhaust:
The GRC exhaust looks pretty simple with minimal mufflers/resonators so not sure how much lighter an aftermarket system would be. But we will see what the aftermarket comes up with.

The Big Nut Behind The Steering Wheel:
I’ll say it. Some people could use actual WeightWatchers.
I think the stock wheels could be around the 22-23lb range. Yes, they're wider but they're forged BBS's afterall. Grated you can still lose a some weight with aftermarket ones either way
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Remember that Lithium and AGM batteries usually take higher than normal charging voltages and if you do not supply that it usually kills their overall life. I have a dual AGM setup in my 4runner but I have to run a voltage booster to supply that higher voltage and still keep it on a NOCO battery maintainer when not in use for a few days. If not your $400 battery will be no good in a year or so.
For sure…seems like AntiGravity batteries are a good option in this sense. They have built in BMS (battery management system) to ensure it recharges properly. They also come in nice “standard” automotive battery sizes

Weight reduction is definitely possible if you can live without AC or an interior. My friend got his 350z down to 2900lbs, but he removed everything in the interior except drivers seat and gauge cluster and fabbed up OEM chassis bracing parts replacements from aluminum. We are sort of total opposites(I have a G35). He is obsessed with weight reduction to an extreme level and my goal is max power. So far what I have found is that though weight reduction helps; especially off the line, you can usually overcome the weight more easily with more power with maybe adding a couple lbs of boost more. I don't think it is worth the sacrifice of comforts. Once you reach a level where more power cannot be achieved, then weight becomes more of a factor. He also has more traction problems with less weight in the back. In autox, weight may have more effects on handling aspects than in a straight line race.
I don’t plan to modify the engine, so weight reduction is the direction. The interior of the Corolla doesn’t do much for me so I might be willing to be pretty aggressive with gutting it. More power can compensate for weight in a straight line, but reducing weight can be realized in all aspects of driving (acceleration, braking, and cornering).
 

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Yeah I'm completely wrong: "It wears Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires 235/40R18 on the both grades and comes equipped with 18-in. gloss-black 15-spoke cast alloy wheels on the grades."
 

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For me it’s gonna be all about keeping the weight I’ve lost for my wedding off. I’m as fit and trim as I’ve been in the last 7-8 years, but I love to eat and my genetics do me no favors. I’m a beefy boy…just a very sturdy, stocky fellow with broad shoulders and powerful legs but a very short torso. If I’m not on top of diet and exercise I revert to the dad bod in a matter of days lol…unfortunately I kind of know I can’t look like I currently do forever but damn it I’m going to try.
 

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For me it’s gonna be all about keeping the weight I’ve lost for my wedding off. I’m as fit and trim as I’ve been in the last 7-8 years, but I love to eat and my genetics do me no favors. I’m a beefy boy…just a very sturdy, stocky fellow with broad shoulders and powerful legs but a very short torso. If I’m not on top of diet and exercise I revert to the dad bod in a matter of days lol…unfortunately I kind of know I can’t look like I currently do forever but damn it I’m going to try.
Right there with ya
 

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So say you actually go through the thousands of dollars and a bunch of hassle to strip the car down to where it can only transport one person in discomfort to get it as light as possible. Can you actually tell the difference?
 

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My biggest weight reduction would be to stop being a fatass and get some exercise in.

Barring that, I could remove the rear seats.
Agreed. I'm probably 30 pounds up from the last 3 years. Cutting down now. But if I can lose 25 pounds, well there is the carbon fiber roof difference, I can fit in the seat better, and be happier overall. Might make it my goal to lose the weight before first drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So say you actually go through the thousands of dollars and a bunch of hassle to strip the car down to where it can only transport one person in discomfort to get it as light as possible. Can you actually tell the difference?
Maybe, maybe not. 250lbs is the equivalent of one “heavier” passenger or two light passengers. It’s not a night and day difference but on the track or autocross it might be more apperant. 8% weight reduction (3250lbs down to 3000lbs) sounds pretty insignificant but the equivalent hp/wt ratio would be like bumping the power to about 325hp…that’s a reasonable gain.

FWIW Weight loss on rotating and unsprung parts are worth even more “equivalent” to static spring weight parts…so saving 10-15 lbs with lightweight wheels and tires will be far more noticeable than 10-15lbs in the boot.
 

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Some of the easiest and most effective weight reduction I think will be at the wheels.

On my IS350 F Sport, I saved 8.4 pounds on each rear wheel (including tires) switching to TE37SLs, which were 1.5 inches wider than stock. I know the GR Corolla wheels will likely be lighter, but this is a testament to just how light aftermarket wheels can be.
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Automotive design


Unfortunately, I don't think a lot will be saved off the rotors. If my hypothesis that these are the same rotor design as on the GS350 F Sport is correct, then the two piece design will already be several pounds lighter than normal one-piece rotors.

GR Yaris Rotor:
Automotive lighting Plant Wheel Automotive tire Flash photography


GS350 F Sport Two-Piece Rotor:
Automotive tire Wheel Synthetic rubber Tire Font


See conversation about rotors starting here (conversation continues onto page 4):


TLDR of post is that front rotors are likely 21 pounds if they share the same design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Totally agree on the wheels being the most effective places for Weight loss…I mentioned in the other thread, I plan to drop down to some lightweight 17x8s assuming they fit over the brakes.

Not sure how much opportunity there is for brake rotor weight reduction if the hats are already aluminum…. Without reducing rotor diameter or material (iron to carbon ceramic)
 

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Totally agree on the wheels being the most effective places for Weight loss…I mentioned in the other thread, I plan to drop down to some lightweight 17x8s assuming they fit over the brakes.

Not sure how much opportunity there is for brake rotor weight reduction if the hats are already aluminum…. Without reducing rotor diameter or material (iron to carbon ceramic)
Agreed. I think the next best place with low impact on driveability is the seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Agreed. I think the next best place with low impact on driveability is the seats.
Maybe…I assume the stock seats will have airbags in them. I’m hesitant to remove safety features, and have a pesky “airbag” light on the dash. Unless you mean removing the rear seats.

I’m guessing the stock driveshaft is steel… maybe the aftermarket will come up with Carbon fiber or Aluminum driveshaft.
 

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Been into weight reduction on my other platforms.
I think getting to ~3000lbs will be fairly easy, albeit expensive after the first 100lbs or so.
Trunk junk -5lbs
sound deadening - 5-10lbs
is there a spare in this car or just a repair kit? -15-40lbs
aftermarket exhaust -20-40lbs
intake - 5-10lbs
lighter wheels ~6lbs x 4 wheels = -24lbs
lightweight battery -15-20lbs
carbon fiber driveshaft -10-12lbs
dry carbon hood -4-10lbs
random interior -5-30lbs
run half a tank lol -36lbs
 
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