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Should fit. Think I've seen a GRY with same setup. It was pretty damn flush, and I'm thinking the GRC is wider....
I am going for pretty flush. I've heard the axles on the GRC are pushed out a little more to counter the width difference. Or else the fitment with the current wheels would be like the people that put those fender flares on F150s and keep stock wheels o_Oo_Oo_O Again, that is what I heard, not 100% on it.
 

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Should fit. Think I've seen a GRY with same setup. It was pretty damn flush, and I'm thinking the GRC is wider....
I think these sizes (18x9.5+38 or +35) should fit, but it won't sit as flush as it does on the GRY. The only concern is whether or not it will clear the suspension. Factory or otherwise.

A +38 will be 20.7mm closer to the suspension and a +35 is 17.7mm closer. We already know the factory wheel sizes are different between the GRY and GRC
 

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I am going for pretty flush. I've heard the axles on the GRC are pushed out a little more to counter the width difference. Or else the fitment with the current wheels would be like the people that put those fender flares on F150s and keep stock wheels o_Oo_Oo_O Again, that is what I heard, not 100% on it.
Well the GRC is 35mm wider than a GRY. GRY is 1815mm wide and the GRC is 1850mm wide.
 

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I think these sizes (18x9.5+38 or +35) should fit, but it won't sit as flush as it does on the GRY. The only concern is whether or not it will clear the suspension. Factory or otherwise.

A +38 will be 20.7mm closer to the suspension and a +35 is 17.7mm closer. We already know the factory wheel sizes are different between the GRY and GRC
For the streets, I'm just gonna run my used Evo X MR BBS wheels (18x8.5 +38) with some 255's and use the appropriate spacer to sit flush. For track, I'm gonna get a set of 17x9 RPF1's (+35) with appropriately sized sticky tires. The Evo X wheels are really light at like 18.5 lbs, while the RPF1's in that size are like just under 16lbs per wheel.
 

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2017 Lexus IS350, 2007 Toyota Camry, 1995 Toyota MR2, 1996 Honda Acty
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I have a set of 18x9.5 +38, 18x10 +40 TE37SLs on my IS350. Would be easy for me to test fit when I get the car. The Lexus has a double wishbone suspension in the front and required a 5mm spacer to clear the suspension.
 

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I am going for pretty flush. I've heard the axles on the GRC are pushed out a little more to counter the width difference. Or else the fitment with the current wheels would be like the people that put those fender flares on F150s and keep stock wheels o_Oo_Oo_O Again, that is what I heard, not 100% on it.
I think a 18x9.5+22 will be the perfect flush fitment that you're looking for. Can also run a 15mm spacer with its own studs to achieve this fitment on a +38 or +35.

Although personally, I'm not a fan of spacers
 

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I think a 18x9.5+22 will be the perfect flush fitment that you're looking for. Can also run a 15mm spacer with its own studs to achieve this fitment on a +38 or +35.

Although personally, I'm not a fan of spacers
I don't mind spacers, but do it the right way with ARP extended lug studs and then use a spacer, those spacers with lugs on them are not the best quality. Last thing I want is for those cheap Chinese studs to break off and my wheel fall off when I'm doing 80 on the free way. That's No bueno.
 

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Evo X C63 507 Chevy SS all sold tired of buying rear tires and miss the Evo
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For the streets, I'm just gonna run my used Evo X MR BBS wheels (18x8.5 +38) with some 255's and use the appropriate spacer to sit flush. For track, I'm gonna get a set of 17x9 RPF1's (+35) with appropriately sized sticky tires. The Evo X wheels are really light at like 18.5 lbs, while the RPF1's in that size are like just under 16lbs per wheel.
Same have old evo wheels and 18x9.5 +28 SSR Type F’s that I’m hoping will fit.
 

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Core owners: “yeah well your Circuit Edition is heavy”
If I'm going to take a Core lapping I'm definitely getting a lighter battery, and swapping in a bucket seat as well as removing the passenger seat / rear seats for the event. It takes like 20 minutes.

That plus a set a very nice lightweight wheels and you'll definitely be a good bit faster then any as-sold CE.

In fact, one could even argue that a Core with PP, (No tech or cold weather pack) is actually the true enthusiast choice. CE is always fully loaded so it's lowest base weight even with the CF roof is more then the Core.

Core gang rise up 💪
 

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If I'm going to take a Core lapping I'm definitely getting a lighter battery, and swapping in a bucket seat as well as removing the passenger seat / rear seats for the event. It takes like 20 minutes.

That plus a set a very nice lightweight wheels and you'll definitely be a good bit faster then any as-sold CE.

In fact, one could even argue that a Core with PP, (No tech or cold weather pack) is actually the true enthusiast choice. CE is always fully loaded so it's lowest base weight even with the CF roof is more then the Core.

Core gang rise up 💪
That red stitching heavy AF
 

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If I'm going to take a Core lapping I'm definitely getting a lighter battery, and swapping in a bucket seat as well as removing the passenger seat / rear seats for the event. It takes like 20 minutes.

That plus a set a very nice lightweight wheels and you'll definitely be a good bit faster then any as-sold CE.

In fact, one could even argue that a Core with PP, (No tech or cold weather pack) is actually the true enthusiast choice. CE is always fully loaded so it's lowest base weight even with the CF roof is more then the Core.

Core gang rise up 💪
A loaded core will (probably) be pretty much identical to a CE in lap times, so yeah, I'd opt for the Core myself and save a couple grand for tires/wheels.
 
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