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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Came across this good intake comparison test on the GRY on YouTube. They test 7 of the most popular intake kits with dyno numbers.
It is a rather long video, so spoiler alert...
The Eventuri looks the best IMO, has the best fitment, and made the most peak HP, but is the 3rd most expensive. The best bang for the buck was the MST open intake system, which only made about 2 peak HP less than the Eventuri, but cost over £800 less than the Eventuri.
Should expect similar results with the GRC. Dont think the GRY enclosed intakes will be a direct PnP to the GRC, but the open ones should basically be PnP.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They are all too much money (some ridiculously so) for very minor gains in power that won't likely be felt from the seat. These are more about underhood bling and noise so get the one that looks or sounds the best if you want to spend money on something like this.
I disagree to an extent. While most of them are overpriced, the MST one offers some good gains for less than $500 USD or so. Gotta realize that squeezing more HP out of a small displacement 3cyl engine is hard enough as it is (without swapping turbos, bigger injectors, tune, etc.). Gaining dyno proven 12hp from less than $500 USD out of a small displacement 3cyl engine isn't bad at all.
 

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2023 Onyx Black GRC (PP, CWP, TP) the original GRanola Armrest
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I disagree to an extent. While most of them are overpriced, the MST one offers some good gains for less than $500 USD or so. Gotta realize that squeezing more HP out of a small displacement 3cyl engine is hard enough as it is (without swapping turbos, bigger injectors, tune, etc.). Gaining dyno proven 12hp from less than $500 USD out of a small displacement 3cyl engine isn't bad at all.
“Dyno proven” doesn’t really mean anything. Dynos are easy to manipulate, and way to many factors that play into it like altitude, humidity etc. I work in the aftermarket automotive industry and we have tried to sway away from “horsepower numbers” it’s better to show an increased cfm flow etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
“Dyno proven” doesn’t really mean anything. Dynos are easy to manipulate, and way to many factors that play into it like altitude, humidity etc. I work in the aftermarket automotive industry and we have tried to sway away from “horsepower numbers” it’s better to show an increased cfm flow etc
Understood, but regardless there aren't many ways to increase power while maintaining the warranty. Intakes for the most part don't void warranties, so it's most likely going to be a common early mod for GRC owners.
 

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Understood, but regardless there aren't many ways to increase power while maintaining the warranty. Intakes for the most part don't void warranties, so it's most likely going to be a common early mod for GRC owners.
just a way of changing throttle response a little bit. Not a bad thing. If DK and them can swap fuses for a couple hp, a intake giving a small response boost is alright too 😂
 

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Is this without a tune? I was under the impression all intakes would preform pretty similarly unless the ECU had been fiddled with.

If these numbers are truly on a stock locked ECU, I'd actually argue they're extremely impressive for a simple intake swap.10hp+ for a bolt on component is nothing to shake a stick at at all.
 
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You can get those sort of gains just by running a better oil. Friction losses are huge in any engine. Total waste of time spending money in this area. A retune for a higher octane fuel only will get you much higher gains.

Your dreaming if you think you can feel another 10Hp. I modified a car to give me another 30Hp off only a 200Hp base and really couldn't tell the difference.
 

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One thing to note about these intakes is that they are designed with the GR Yaris engine bay in mind.

The headlight scoop on the GruppeM, for instance, is unlikely to line up correctly with the GR Corolla because it was designed to grab air from the GR Yaris headlight.

Same goes for the main scoop. There is no confirmation that the positioning will be the same.

Food for thought.
 

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So reviving thread here.... Whats the consensus?

Are these dyno results legit or totally fabricated? Everything else I read about the GRY says bolt-ons do NOTHING without a tune, yet these guys appear to be a 3rd party posting real dyno results, same vehicle same dyno.

I NEED TO KNOW
 

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So reviving thread here.... Whats the consensus?

Are these dyno results legit or totally fabricated? Everything else I read about the GRY says bolt-ons do NOTHING without a tune, yet these guys appear to be a 3rd party posting real dyno results, same vehicle same dyno.

I NEED TO KNOW
If you can get 10hp more, a much better sound, and cleaner look under the hood, why not? As long as it doesn't hurt hp, any gain is a good thing. And more air in tends to help any exhaust upgrades too make for a better combination.
 

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If you can get 10hp more, a much better sound, and cleaner look under the hood, why not? As long as it doesn't hurt hp, any gain is a good thing. And more air in tends to help any exhaust upgrades too make for a better combination.
100% agree. It’s just that the GRY forums call BS on all bolt on gains, intakes included. I’ve seen many posts even those by tuning houses staying without ECU piggyback or standalone you won’t see squat.

Either way, I’m getting one for the churbo chirps.
 

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100% agree. It’s just that the GRY forums call BS on all bolt on gains, intakes included. I’ve seen many posts even those by tuning houses staying without ECU piggyback or standalone you won’t see squat.

Either way, I’m getting one for the churbo chirps.
On my 2017 Corolla iM 6MT with a 1.8L 2ZR-FAE that puts out 137bhp. I added a DC Sports CAI & ceramic header, DNA 2.25" catback exhaust, Jet MAF, Quantum Solenoids, NST lightweight crank pulley, and even without a tune I measured 180bhp on the dyno.
 

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On my 2017 Corolla iM 6MT with a 1.8L 2ZR-FAE that puts out 137bhp. I added a DC Sports CAI & ceramic header, DNA 2.25" catback exhaust, Jet MAF, Quantum Solenoids, NST lightweight crank pulley, and even without a tune I measured 180bhp on the dyno.
Was the 137bhp figure you mentioned from a dyno pull on the same machine with all stock parts?
 

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So reviving thread here.... Whats the consensus?

Are these dyno results legit or totally fabricated? Everything else I read about the GRY says bolt-ons do NOTHING without a tune, yet these guys appear to be a 3rd party posting real dyno results, same vehicle same dyno.

I NEED TO KNOW
I trust the results. The problem with putting a gr yaris on the dyno is explained by motive garage in the intake they tested. The AWD system is overdriven in the rear so it's always engaged... which means the dyno fights the car. They later discover, as others have, including in the "ultimate intake test" that if you disconnect the connectors from under the back seat and pull the hand brake, it's FWD. This makes the repeates runs consistent.

As for the findings, the open filter intakes grab a lot of hot air making 5hp, as the hks did and the intake motive garage tested.

Even the MST will not be great, as it may be well sealed to the hood, but sitting in traffic it will heatsoak. 12hp is in top 3 though, for under $500USD.
 

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Airtec is the best, in my opinion... You might think that the MST is the best bang for your buck, from the results... but, if you do any street driving, there will be heat soak on the MST. Park the car, go in to get a bite to eat, come back and out, and the area under the hood will be heatsoaked. Even just stopped in traffic. Because its not an enclosed sealed system, and the area that it uses is large, it will take some time to get it to clear out. Once it does, the power is there, unlike HKS.

You want an enclosed sealed system, so you don't ever suffer from heatsoak, and you want a very good flowing system. Therefore, bang for your buck, it's the Airtec. cheapest enclosed system that gives results (good flow), and doesn't heat soak.

The test showed which intake flows the best and which one reaches its coldest air, and stays there. You can derive this from the hp gains and temp readings, they show. Clearly for the money, Gruppe M and Sprint are huge failures, as is ITG, but you don't pay much for the ITG. So, I put ITG above Gruppe M and Sprint. These are midpack intakes.

I put the intake that will likely heatsoak, the MST, above the others, because it clearly flows well and is cheap. Airtec, Eventuri, and MST are the top intakes, in my opinion, but the Eventuri is for those that feel it's an investment that they will get back when they go to resell it.

Tegiwa never gave their preference for bang for your buck, here's what I would go with ($ amounts are in euros):
1. Airtec, 12.3hp gain for $600,.. best gain for $, no heatsoak
2. Eventuri, 14hp for $1248, ...... looks incredible, 1.7hp gain over best gain/$ intake, money is no object
3. MST, 12.2hp for $409, ........... best gain for $, but w/heatsoak
4. ITG, 7.1hp for $474,............... more gains than HKS!, but 2nd cheapest, no heatsoak Edit: version 2 gave 9hp
5. Sprint, 9hp for $1295, ............ gains are not best, but looks incredible, minus the blue coupler???
6. Gruppe M, 8.7hp for $1435,.... most expensive, gain is disappointing
7. stock, no gain, but it's free,...... since it came with the car, no heatsoak but not very good at drawing air, and needs a pickup tube modification/swap (which can be purchased)
8. HKS, 5.1hp gain for $936,....... if you just want noise, then this is your intake. As a bonus it gives 5hp

Edit: Their testing methods, and gains are questionable. There is a part 2 to their testing [which revealed testing issues], and on that day Eventuri made 7hp gain; and ITG fine tuned their design, created a Version 2, and made 9hp gain. So, does that mean ITG makes more hp than what we previously thought was making the most hp gain, Eventuri? Maybe ITG is the one to get... and 5hp gain can be subtracted from some of the part 1 tested intakes...???
 
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