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It's hard to follow the vent discussions, as few specify which ones they are talking about. The two air curtain ones shown above, the two extraction ones behind the fenders, or the brake cooling ducts on the ME, never mind the two in the hood on Circuit/ME.
 

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Is the online PDF different from the physical manual? The battery charging section there mentions charging the battery at the battery (looked through the PDF before actually getting mine).

But the "few minutes" concerns me as it would be charged overnight.
...I'm not sure as I don't have the car yet; I've just been doing PDF searches. I think the "few minutes" is not a limitation, just a tip to help start more easily than immediately trying to jump.

I believe that those terminals could handle the charging current required on a battery but not the 100s of amps required to actually jump-start another car.
 

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last pic is the outlet for the duct to create an air curtain around the front wheels for more aero
highlighted as 19 and 20
View attachment 6568
ooo brake ducts! i dont think ill get the oem+ part in time for my first event in 2 weeks. lets hope the ti shims save my seals...


who said that? and which ones arent functional?
As @Root said, the rear wing affects the aero so they changed the front vents. It's actually the Circuit that has closed front aero curtain vents, most likely to reduce front lift because the rear wing will add front lift.
This was what I could figure out about the whole confusingly-worded mess:
 

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Toyota engineers said there were fender ducts, looks like its those #19 & 20, that were not functional on trims without big wang because the aero became unbalanced. 19 & 20 are not brake ducts, those are the vents that goninto the wheel well for making air curtain up front im pretty sure.
The brake ducts weve seen are more twisty shaped.
the owners thread shows pics of the outlet in the fender well.
Doh, sorry, thats what u said already!
sorry two different thoughts #19 and 20 are not brake ducts but are the ducts for the air curtain that dump the air into the front wheel wells

i believe the provisions for the cutout that @snowrx found are # 12 and 13, 13 is mislabeled no.1 intercooler air guide
Font Slope Parallel Rectangle Naval architecture


making # 14 and 15 brake ducts which are also mislabeled.
Font Line Parallel Rectangle Slope



As @Root said, the rear wing affects the aero so they changed the front vents. It's actually the Circuit that has closed front aero curtain vents, most likely to reduce front lift because the rear wing will add front lift.
This was what I could figure out about the whole confusingly-worded mess:
oh is this what @Root is talking about non functional vents?
It's hard to follow the vent discussions, as few specify which ones they are talking about. The two air curtain ones shown above, the two extraction ones behind the fenders, or the brake cooling ducts on the ME, never mind the two in the hood on Circuit/ME.
doesnt help that they call them all air intake duct's lets just call the front bumper to wheel well air curtain duct, intercooler air guide, brake ducts, then there are the side extraction vents, and hood (extraction) vents :LOL:
 

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Toyota engineers said there were fender ducts, looks like its those #19 & 20, that were not functional on trims without big wang because the aero became unbalanced. 19 & 20 are not brake ducts, those are the vents that goninto the wheel well for making air curtain up front im pretty sure.
The brake ducts weve seen are more twisty shaped.
the owners thread shows pics of the outlet in the fender well.
Doh, sorry, thats what u said already!
do you know if it was on a press release or video where the toyota engineer said that? i just wanna reference it :)
 

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Wait...your new GR Corolla has been sitting for a week?!?
Yes. I've only driven it twice. Never test drove it. First time I drove it was taking it home from the dealership. Drove it yesterday around the neighborhood. I'm waiting for PPF and tint to get done before I start daily driving it. Trust me, it's very hard to not drive it.
 

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Is the online PDF different from the physical manual? The battery charging section there mentions charging the battery at the battery (looked through the PDF before actually getting mine).

But the "few minutes" concerns me as it would be charged overnight.
You have absolutely nothing to worry about. There is nothing on the car that draws anywhere near as much current as a starter. The starter draws more current than everything else in the car combined. So charging a camera battery through that port is very insignificant.
 

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You have absolutely nothing to worry about. There is nothing on the car that draws anywhere near as much current as a starter. The starter draws more current than everything else in the car combined. So charging a camera battery through that port is very insignificant.
Oh, it's not the camera I'm worried about. It's charging the actual car's 12v battery from the jumper terminal.
 

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Yes. I've only driven it twice. Never test drove it. First time I drove it was taking it home from the dealership. Drove it yesterday around the neighborhood. I'm waiting for PPF and tint to get done before I start daily driving it. Trust me, it's very hard to not drive it.
Was anyone able to test drive before buying?
 

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Highly recommend carrying a Booster Jump Battery Pack. You can jump yourself and let someone else borrow it to jump their car as well. I have the GOOLOO GT3000 but Noco and Yesper are also good brands.
I had a couple Microstart jump packs that I got from Toyota for gifts. They were absolutely garbage. I bought one from Harbor Freight because I had a coupon to get it for 70 bucks. It's a beast! It started a V-8 Tundra that was 100% dead. Worth every penny.
 

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Was anyone able to test drive before buying?
No, they had a "No test drives" sign on the car. Supposedly the miles on the car were from prior to them (so I'm guessing around the factory and ports), and PDI. The car had the same miles on the odometer as my FR-S, which I also did not test drive and I know for sure no one did. The GRC is the third car that I did not test drive (one of them I bought sight unseen). This, btw, was by choice. My sales guy asked several times if I wanted to test drive it after running my credit and seeing my score.
 

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Same answer. A starter draws around 175 amps. Everything in the car combined draws less than that, and you would never ever charge a car battery at that rate.
Yeah, my Noco charger is only 5 amps. I can even use my other Noco, which is even less at 3.5 amps. I think the manual says to not use anything above 5 amps as well.
 

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No, they had a "No test drives" sign on the car. Supposedly the miles on the car were from prior to them (so I'm guessing around the factory and ports), and PDI. The car had the same miles on the odometer as my FR-S, which I also did not test drive and I know for sure no one did. The GRC is the third car that I did not test drive (one of them I bought sight unseen). This, btw, was by choice. My sales guy asked several times if I wanted to test drive it after running my credit and seeing my score.
What was your mileage on it
 
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