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not too many factory turbo toyota engines to compare. the toyota 2.4L uses twin scroll. i believe most hondas are single as well, 1.5, 2.0 accord and type R. subaru 2.0 and 2.4 are twin scroll.
My point was more the fact that there needs to be an even number of cylinders contributing to each of the 2 volutes of a twinscroll turbo. It's uneven drive pressure entering each side of the housing.
 
I just saw the article from road and track... I then searched the forums, and found this thread. The car was clearly not dyno'ed correctly (based on how he GRYaris was dyno'ed for consistent&correct numbers). They likely had a hard time getting consistent numbers. Then, finally, the car likely went into a decreased power mode, was heat soaked, and produced lower numbers than actual.

From the accelerstion tests against the CTR, I have always estimated 280whp on a dynojet vs 290whp on an fk8 and 295whp on an FL5.

We should have an entirely seperate thread on how to dyno a GRCorolla correctly, so that people can be aware. From the GR Yaris dyno tested, the way to get consistent and correct numbers is to put it on a 2 wheel, not 4 wheel dyno. There are reasons for this, which we can get into on another thread.
 
How about that massive lean area (stoichiometric) from tip-in to 3500/3900 rpms? Obviously this is intentional, but the first time I've seen it! Wonder what the reasoning is.
Manufactured are targeting the best fuel economy they can get... and that's the trick. Being able to run a turbo, which can give more hp per liter, but at the same time, not having the side effect of having to run a richer mixture which would normally decrease mpg. Typically turbo cars are 11.5:1 air-fuel ratio, and Natural Aspirated cars are 13:1 air-fuel ratio. There are a ton of technologies that are being used, including and most importantly, direct injection, to be able run a lean mixture (like as if it was NA) and use a small turbo engine (insteadof a 4cyl, v6, larger displacement, etc). What you want to avoid is overheating the combustion chamber to the point of damage, and keep it as lean as possible for the best mpg. Honda puts the exhaust manifold internal to the head to quickly cool the exhaust charge, with cooling jackets/water passages... which helps cool the engine, run a leaner mix, and simplify the turbo mounting. On the G16E, the turbo is part of the manifold, and that brings in the heat also so it can be cooled, among other tricks so that they can run as lean as possible... As a tuner, that looks scary to be that lean, and once tuned we find that, sure it's safe, but there is more power to be had by running the 11.5:1 air fuel ratio.
Not bad at all, comes out to about 18%. I’ll be curious about that also. I know a lot of guys seem to use the syvec controller and run it fully fwd or rwd
From my understanding, you don't need any kind of controller/engine management, [once on a 2wheel dyno] just pull the parking brake and go. I'm sure Toyota did this for ease of towing (look this up in the owners manual, under "how to tow"). Motive garage also stated that they pulled "the plugs" under the back seat, which I think they meant electrical connectors... and that's just as an extra precaution.
My guess is to also squeeze out some fuel economy.
Yup!
 
Please check out:
 
As a tuner, that looks scary to be that lean, and once tuned we find that, sure it's safe, but there is more power to be had by running the 11.5:1 air fuel ratio.
this is the big takeaway for me.

there's power to be had with this engine before needing to increase the boost. AFR and timing, even on standard 93, should allow for a fair bit of power, it might be that you can make more power under the curve, and minimal peak gains though.
 
If you do your research you will find that peak power and peak torque come at different AFR's. Typically you are in the 12's if you want peaks and you need to ignore economy. 12's is also a lot safer and provides better cooling for the engine.
 
If you do your research you will find that peak power and peak torque come at different AFR's. Typically you are in the 12's if you want peaks and you need to ignore economy. 12's is also a lot safer and provides better cooling for the engine.
As you increase torque, you increase power, due to the relation of the two (hp=torque*rpm/5252). Due to the multiplication factor that RPMs give to hp, provided that torque doesn't drop off at high RPMs, the peak hp is normally above 5252, and peak torque is below 5252. A car can be tuned so that it runs a 11.5:1 AFR (air-fuel ratio) at low RPMs, and 12:1 AFR at high RPMs, or vice versa.

People tend to confuse hp and torque. Acceleration is hp to weight ratio. You want that hp to be readily available without having to drop a gear for ease of driving, and that means you want the most hp you can get at low RPMs, which is the shortened term "torque" when describing this. Torque is also a twisting force that has no time component, as hp does, is at the output of the crankshaft, and you cannot use without the hp component (i.e. wheels&tires, rpms). It's physics, and there are arguments trying to defy physics, but it's just not possible.
 
If you do your research you will find that peak power and peak torque come at different AFR's. Typically you are in the 12's if you want peaks and you need to ignore economy. 12's is also a lot safer and provides better cooling for the engine.
uhhh i've always been told by tuners to stay in the upper 11's for max safety/power. 12's is really pushing it.
 
We were wondering the same thing last night once we unstrapped the car. We plan on looking into it further with time but we just wanted to get a pretty good baseline visual. We were in and out pretty quick last night too because it was the end of a long work day and I was freezing my ass off from the fans lol
Can you give any insight on the consistency of the runs, back to back? Did you see any inconsistencies in the same gear? Are you sure that 3rd gear gave more power, while 4th gave more torque, and it wasn't an inconsistency issue regardless of the gear?

Please reply on this thread, regarding the consistency of properly dynoing the GRC:
 
What's an AWD dyno made for if its not to test AWD cars ?

Power outputs look about what can be expected to me.

Cannot start blaming the Dyno if it doesn't look like it measures up to expectations.
 
What's an AWD dyno made for if its not to test AWD cars ?

Power outputs look about what can be expected to me.

Cannot start blaming the Dyno if it doesn't look like it measures up to expectations.
Ultimately the issue comes down to the AWD system detecting mismatching wheel speeds with 0 degrees of steering input and will shift power around and possibly cut spark timing or fuel to compensate. Not a big deal if you're not over driving any of the wheels as the sensors will read normal condition, all wheels are spinning at the same speed. However, once you introduce the over drive the rear wheels will spin faster than the fronts by design which begins to force the AWD computer to compensate. You don't tune on the basis of guessing what the AWD computer is doing hence disable the rear clutchpack and tune 2WD for consistency and reliability of the tunes.
 
TimeRacer speaketh the truth!

Consistency is the key here, and no reduced power mode is also the key.

258.6whp & 252.6whp does NOT backup the acceleration tests. I could possibly believe 275whp, but definitely not under 260whp. Should be right at 280whp, with the CTRs making 290-295whp.
 
Sharing from Facebook, I know that she’s on here but I’m drawing a blank on her user name:

figured we could consolidate these runs and future runs.
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You should add Limit+1's Dyno to the 1st post. Might want to mention that both tests so far were done without the car being put in dyno mode.... the 1st dyno test that actually used dyno mode, wins! Well, in my book.
 
What's an AWD dyno made for if its not to test AWD cars ?

Power outputs look about what can be expected to me.

Cannot start blaming the Dyno if it doesn't look like it measures up to expectations.
Nobody is blaming the dyno dude. It’s not about peak HP or TQ. It’s about dynoing the vehicle the proper way. With the Focus RS or the GR Corolla, or the GR Yaris, you do not use an AWD dyno. You disconnect the rear half shafts (fuse on the RS) and dyno the vehicle in FWD mode. The AWD systems of either car are advanced compared to traditional AWD vehicles in this class and the AWD systems confuse the dyno. It has nothing to do with peak numbers whatsoever.
 
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