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Differential case part numbers are also the same for GRC.
Drivetrain Part # differences: GR Yaris vs GR Corolla
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Interestingly, the GR Yaris appears to have updated and higher performance differentials.
I think the reason there is two listed for each front, and rear, is because one is LSD (high performance), and the other is the non-LSD (open diff). There is no other designation in the description, to tell you which is LSD, other than "high performance." So that must be it.
What's more interesting, is that the rear open diff, or non-high performance, fits the RX350, highlander, venza, and Sienna, with a 3.5L V6. So, if you wanted a "high performance"/LSD diff for one of those vehicles, now you can... atleast for the rear.
2017 Lexus IS350, 2007 Toyota Camry, 1995 Toyota MR2, 1996 Honda Acty
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So we know these part numbers are different than the GR Yaris, which is certainly a promising sign; however, do we actually have confirmation on how these are different (from an actual reputable source)? If they are an improvement, are they enough to solve the shortcomings Yaris people ran into when hunting for power?
I'm not sure anyone can answer these questions, but what I've read so far seems to be based on the assumption that they are better. If there is proof, I think we should include that with the part numbers.
I'm not sure anyone can answer these questions, but what I've read so far seems to be based on the assumption that they are better. If there is proof, I think we should include that with the part numbers.
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We definitely do not know if the parts are better or just different. Only time and money will likely answer those questions.
Next stop, to find out if we have improved parts, is tuning. There are a few companies working on flashes, piggybacks, etc.
But, before that, we need to know what stock hp is. I believe that once a proper dyno test is done, and on a dynojet. We should have 280whp in dyno mode, which is also FWD mode, which is also least drivetrain loss. GR Yaris stock is 240whp, so is GR Corolla 280whp? I bet it is.
Next, if the valvesprings are not improved, then with tuning we have only 10whp more than stock. If they are improved, 30whp more than stock, and e85 will get us nothing because injectors are maxed out. If the high pressure fuel pump that feeds the direct injectors is improved, we should get as much as 50whp with just e85&tune. That should put the GR Corolla at 330whp, which is 40hp more than the GR Yaris got.
Next, is the turbo. If it's not improved, then no boltons will be necessary to get any more power... except maybe 10whp, at the most with boltons. That's where the GR Yaris ended at with boltons, 340whp. If the turbo is improved, then with boltons we can see another 30whp, and not just 10whp. So, that's 360whp, boltons+e85+tune.
Finally, we have the exhaust cam. If the cam is not improved, and we need to change it out, then that will give us another 20whp. That will put the GR Corolla at 380whp. If the cam was improved, then no need to change it, and we may be at 370-380whp, back at just boltons+e85+tune. Depending on how good that exhaust cam is though, so maybe just 370whp, maybe 380whp... Otherwise, if cam was not improved, or not good enough for you, then boltons+e85+tune+cams is 380whp.
Lastly, if the pistons have been improved on, then the motor will handle more boost without as much need for e85... and on e85, even more power will be possible and the better pistons will also extend the life of the motor at higher sustained power levels. This goes hand in hand with the improved turbo, also... as does the oil cooler.
All these numbers are conservative, could be that at the end we can make 400whp. If we upgrade the internals of the turbo, we should be able to hit 400whp, and maybe even go to 430whp. But, lets just say, everything, with upgraded turbo internals, 400whp for now. We'll see.
[When I say e85, I mean adding in e85 till you get to a certain ethanol content. Could be 85%, could be 30%, could be something in between. Your tuner will tell you what you need... and you'll need a flex fuel kit that tells you, and the computer, what content you have]
It's very exciting. Some people just don't get it, or care... and that's fine.
As an Engineer, these are the EXACT changes I would have made to raise the bar by 40hp, to truly give an improved motor for a car with 400lbs more.
Remember, the structure of the engine, is made to handle extreme pressures and abuses of hydrogen. So this little engine is VERY strong, just add in the ingredients you need for that level of power you're after.
hydrogen-central.com
So, no, parts mean nothing. All those changes are just coincidental and by accident. They just by chance happen to be the exact recipe to up the game, but it means nothing. Be happy with your stock car, because a tune will only give you 10whp anyway, and boltons another 10whp. This last paragraph is just me being sarcastic.
But, before that, we need to know what stock hp is. I believe that once a proper dyno test is done, and on a dynojet. We should have 280whp in dyno mode, which is also FWD mode, which is also least drivetrain loss. GR Yaris stock is 240whp, so is GR Corolla 280whp? I bet it is.
Next, if the valvesprings are not improved, then with tuning we have only 10whp more than stock. If they are improved, 30whp more than stock, and e85 will get us nothing because injectors are maxed out. If the high pressure fuel pump that feeds the direct injectors is improved, we should get as much as 50whp with just e85&tune. That should put the GR Corolla at 330whp, which is 40hp more than the GR Yaris got.
Next, is the turbo. If it's not improved, then no boltons will be necessary to get any more power... except maybe 10whp, at the most with boltons. That's where the GR Yaris ended at with boltons, 340whp. If the turbo is improved, then with boltons we can see another 30whp, and not just 10whp. So, that's 360whp, boltons+e85+tune.
Finally, we have the exhaust cam. If the cam is not improved, and we need to change it out, then that will give us another 20whp. That will put the GR Corolla at 380whp. If the cam was improved, then no need to change it, and we may be at 370-380whp, back at just boltons+e85+tune. Depending on how good that exhaust cam is though, so maybe just 370whp, maybe 380whp... Otherwise, if cam was not improved, or not good enough for you, then boltons+e85+tune+cams is 380whp.
Lastly, if the pistons have been improved on, then the motor will handle more boost without as much need for e85... and on e85, even more power will be possible and the better pistons will also extend the life of the motor at higher sustained power levels. This goes hand in hand with the improved turbo, also... as does the oil cooler.
All these numbers are conservative, could be that at the end we can make 400whp. If we upgrade the internals of the turbo, we should be able to hit 400whp, and maybe even go to 430whp. But, lets just say, everything, with upgraded turbo internals, 400whp for now. We'll see.
[When I say e85, I mean adding in e85 till you get to a certain ethanol content. Could be 85%, could be 30%, could be something in between. Your tuner will tell you what you need... and you'll need a flex fuel kit that tells you, and the computer, what content you have]
It's very exciting. Some people just don't get it, or care... and that's fine.
As an Engineer, these are the EXACT changes I would have made to raise the bar by 40hp, to truly give an improved motor for a car with 400lbs more.
Remember, the structure of the engine, is made to handle extreme pressures and abuses of hydrogen. So this little engine is VERY strong, just add in the ingredients you need for that level of power you're after.
Hydrogen Oowered Toyota GR Yaris Debuts in Europe - Hydrogen Central
Hydrogen powered Toyota GR Yaris debuts in Europe. Toyota used the Ypres Rally to demonstrate its GR Yaris H2 outside of Japan for the
hydrogen-central.com
So, no, parts mean nothing. All those changes are just coincidental and by accident. They just by chance happen to be the exact recipe to up the game, but it means nothing. Be happy with your stock car, because a tune will only give you 10whp anyway, and boltons another 10whp. This last paragraph is just me being sarcastic.
2017 Lexus IS350, 2007 Toyota Camry, 1995 Toyota MR2, 1996 Honda Acty
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I think the fact that the part numbers that happened to change being the ones we were most worried about by looking at the Yaris data more than likely points at some improvements being made, but of course that's speculation.
My hope is that I can make 400WHP without having to open up anything on the engine. I'm a fan of minimally invasive mods. So valve springs are the main thing I'm hoping improved.
My hope is that I can make 400WHP without having to open up anything on the engine. I'm a fan of minimally invasive mods. So valve springs are the main thing I'm hoping improved.
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I agree, swap in a modded stock turbo to support enough flow for 400+whp along with supporting bolt on mods, and that's where I would be satisfied with.
I could be wrong but I think the GR Yaris rear LSD assembly as a whole unit is 41110-52030. Are you able to confirm if this is indeed the same on the GR Corolla?
You mean this...
41110-52030 CARRIER ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL, REAR, *FGR=41:18=2.277,"HIGH
PERFORMANCE"(H)OR(I)
41110 41110-52020 CARRIER ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL, REAR, *FGR=41:18=2.277
That's the entire rear end carrier, or "pumpkin."
ijuswannaride? Check that please.
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Confirmed.
Check these please
GR Yaris
17700-18050 CLEANER ASSY, AIR
17751-18010 INLET, AIR CLEANER, NO.1
17753-18010 INLET, AIR CLEANER, NO.3
17880-18010 HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.1
17940-18010 INTERCOOLER ASSY
90919-01302 PLUG, SPARK, DILKAR8U7G
19500 90919-02277 COIL ASSY, IGNITION
GR Yaris
17700-18050 CLEANER ASSY, AIR
17751-18010 INLET, AIR CLEANER, NO.1
17753-18010 INLET, AIR CLEANER, NO.3
17880-18010 HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.1
17940-18010 INTERCOOLER ASSY
90919-01302 PLUG, SPARK, DILKAR8U7G
19500 90919-02277 COIL ASSY, IGNITION
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Air cleaner assembly 17700-18060
Inlet, air cleaner, NO. 1 - same P/N
Inlet, air cleaner NO. 3 - 17753-18020
Hoes, air cleaner, NO. 1 - same P/N
Intercooler assy (no logo) - 17940-18030
Intercooler assy (w/logo) - 17940-18020
Plug, spark - same P/N
Coil assy, ignition - same P/N
Interesting the intake pickup tube has not changed, but the funnel feeding it has. I would think it would be the opposite. Either/Or I guess. That means that the aftermarket pickup tubes created for the GR Yaris will just carry over.
The airbox has changed though. That could affect aftermarket GR Yaris intakes also, so that they need a change going to the GR Corolla.
Intercooler change, is not surprising with the different front bumper. Question as always, is it actually improved?
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Does the GRY have the same dual inlet air box as the GRC?
Well the part# changed for the airbox, but yes, the GR Yaris has a bypass flap that opens at higher RPMs from what I've seen and read. The diagram doesn't show it. There is no seperate part/tube that feeds it, though. Does the GRC?
How about these
The engine long block
19000-18210 ENGINE ASSY, PARTIAL
The piston oil jets
15708-18010 NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, OIL, NO.1
15708A 90110-06040 BOLT, OIL NOZZLE
15709 15709-18010 NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, OIL, NO.2
1570A 1570A-18010 NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, OIL, NO.3
Valve spring retainers & seats
13734-62020 SEAT, INTAKE VALVE SPRING
13734B 13734-62020 SEAT, EXHAUST VALVE SPRING
13741B 13741-36010 RETAINER, INTAKE VALVE SPRING
13741C 13741-36010 RETAINER, EXHAUST VALVE SPRING
The engine long block
19000-18210 ENGINE ASSY, PARTIAL
The piston oil jets
15708-18010 NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, OIL, NO.1
15708A 90110-06040 BOLT, OIL NOZZLE
15709 15709-18010 NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, OIL, NO.2
1570A 1570A-18010 NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, OIL, NO.3
Valve spring retainers & seats
13734-62020 SEAT, INTAKE VALVE SPRING
13734B 13734-62020 SEAT, EXHAUST VALVE SPRING
13741B 13741-36010 RETAINER, INTAKE VALVE SPRING
13741C 13741-36010 RETAINER, EXHAUST VALVE SPRING
I just read that the outer most mounting hole has changed, but nothing major, and intakes carry over just fine without the use of that. There is someone using an HKS intake on their GR Corolla, from the GR Yaris.
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It does not show any kind of a tube that goes to the secondary flap on the bottom of the air box. Kind of surprising that under high demand situations that it would suck air from the hot engine compartment.
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