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Its probably in the suspension pickup points. That or camber bolts.
 
As a lurker/standard Corolla owner, I am banking on more similarities than differences in the hopes that I can enjoy the great oem GR shocks perhaps.
I did this many years back with a Lexus, using oem Supra TT parts. Many were surprised how much of it bolted right onto that car…
That was the first car I nit-picked the alignment until it was perfect, was rewarding.
 
Which Lexus? I have supra tt calipers on my IS300 and rear aluminum upper arms from a gs300 😅

The steering knuckle is not the same as the standard e210, but it would be a matter of using a different mount. Or you could change the knuckle to GRC ones.
 
I had a ‘92 SC400, used the shocks, springs, swaybars, and brakes from the MKIV TT.
Also had some 10.5/9 X 17 rims that helped it all work together.

Looking further, it would be a miracle if the GRC struts would swap to the standard car, as everything downstream is entirely different!
The track width is around 2 1/2” wider on the GR, mostly from the knuckles.

Might be worth finding a set of oem GR struts/shocks someone has laying around after upgrading to coilovers, see how it goes.

As for alignment, I have a large “caliper” that I have used to set toe. It’s a length of 3/4” X 4” oak with some maybe 14” extensions on each end, a plastic nub that engages with the rim on one side, and a large flat washer to measure from to the rim, using 6” caliper/depth gauge.
On the back, it still works but in conjunction with a long straight edge to gauge against the front hubs. Wound up with .010” total in front, and about .020” in the rear, has worked on most cars since.
 
That would be awesome!
I wish every Corolla was a GR!
Maybe to be able and choose between a 1.6T 3 cylinder and a 2.0T 4cylinder, 400hp version.

Maybe I’ll find a rolled rally car and swap the suspension, subframes, drivetrain into my sedan, get some LE emblems…

Regardless, am looking forward to seeing what others wind up with as far as suspension setup.
 
Green Organism Plant Biome World


Here’s what my alignment came out to with the 3 dot Toyota camber bolts. Unfortunately, the printer was malfunctioning so I couldn’t get a printout, but the current alignment is what matters now. Crazy how aggressive the stock camber is, and how much more aggressive it could get with OEM 3 dot camber bolts.
 
View attachment 15521

Here’s what my alignment came out to with the 3 dot Toyota camber bolts. Unfortunately, the printer was malfunctioning so I couldn’t get a printout, but the current alignment is what matters now. Crazy how aggressive the stock camber is, and how much more aggressive it could get with OEM 3 dot camber bolts.
Where did you put the OEM 3 dot?

Front: top hole? bottom hole? both top and bottom?
Rear: top hole? bottom hole? both top and bottom?
 
Where did you put the OEM 3 dot?

Front: top hole? bottom hole? both top and bottom?
Rear: top hole? bottom hole? both top and bottom?
Lower strut bolt hole. You can put 3 dot bolts on the upper and lower for maximum negative camber as well.

Rear camber is non-adjustable from the factory. It’d need an aftermarket control arm for camber adjustment.
 
Hey guys. Ever since I took delivery of the GRC, the car wanders at highway speed and feels unstable. Did a little reading, and found that it is due to caster alignment. Also read that the caster is non adjustable. So, how do we fix the caster problem if it cant be adjusted? I took it to get aligned, but it still feels the same. Here is my alignment report.

Font Toy Parallel Pattern Plan
 
I don’t think the .1 degree difference in caster is affecting anything.

The slight toe out however has never been good for me, and would never recommend that, especially on a street driven car.

Have you checked the tire pressures?
Maybe a few miles for the tires to wear to the new settings.
 
I don’t think the .1 degree difference in caster is affecting anything.

The slight toe out however has never been good for me, and would never recommend that, especially on a street driven car.

Have you checked the tire pressures?
Maybe a few miles for the tires to wear to the new settings.
Yeah tire pressures are up to spec. Drove 100 miles and symptoms are still present.

You think it could be loose suspension components?

Also aren't those caster values on the alignment report supposed to be green?
 
If something were to be loose, I am pretty certain that it would be very hard to ignore, so I doubt that.

I recall that certain widths of cars can have issues like that on highways that can cause wandering. The ruts from semi trucks in the road surface can cause an instability.

I have commented in the inside tire edge wear thread, recalling how that happened on another vehicle, and am thinking about how the road surface (profile) was likely also a factor in both wear and instability that I experienced at that time.
 
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