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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edited to make it 16 things as I missed something very important (read #16)!

1) The paint is extremely soft on these cars and is very prone to stone chips and scratches. Full PPF is recommended. People in UK that opted for no PPF regret it now. PPF should be applied to any forged carbon roof anyway, or it will deteriorate over time.

2) GR wheels use a two-tone effect to achieve their colour, so Toyota will be unable to provide a paint code should you damage a wheel. If you do damage a wheel, opt for a smart repair. A decent smart repairer should be able to match the colour and repair the affected area only. If you opt for a fully refurbished wheel, it will not be an exact colour match to the other three wheels.

3) The bedding in period for this engine is 621 miles/999 km’s, so if you are looking to protect your engine, you will need to avoid pushing the car hard until after 621 miles/999 km’s has been done.

4) Every time you start this engine from cold, power will be severely limited for around 5 minutes until the engine oil has warmed up. You will get a message on the dashboard advising to avoid using heavy acceleration. Whilst it is in this warm-up phase, you are not beating anybody in a race. Once it disappears, you are good to go.

5) The tyre pressure sensors are annoying. Even when the tyre pressures are correct, they will report as the incorrect pressure when it is colder weather than usual.

6) Lane assist and steering assist are turned on by default. They ruin the raw driving experience. You will have to turn these features off every time you start the car. Takes around 10 seconds. You can not turn off collision prevention though.

7) These cars achieve significantly better track times and a better driving experience with the Torsen LSD's fitted. Many UK buyers opted for no LSD's to save money as they assumed that the difference was in the tyres only. They now regret it. Resale values reflect this as well. Now that both variants have been tested thoroughly, the LSD variant is much more valuable in the second hand car market. It is a lot more expensive to add LSD’s on as aftermarket parts. Toyota also change the weight of the steering for LSD models from factory to suit the LSD’s, this is not something you can really replicate afterwards.

8) The best cost per horsepower modification that you can do on this engine is either a remap or a tuning box. A tuning box will retain your warranty as it can be removed before dealership servicing and leaves no footprint on the ECU. A remap will void your warranty on any failure that the dealerships can hold it accountable for. An ECU remap will also be wiped if your dealership decides to update the ECU for a recall when your car is being serviced. The Yaris has already been recalled once for changes to the radar functionality, which is tied into the ECU.

9) The top speed limiter can be removed on this engine via a tuning box that supports V-Max removal. This involves splicing one of the cables in the engine bay though, so it puts people off doing it.

10) The following aftermarket modifications do not make any difference to the performance of this engine at any state of tune. This is confirmed by multiple, reputable independent tuners that have all pushed this car to over 400bhp. The only parties that claim power increases for these modifications are the parties that are selling the products and are set to make money from them. Believe it or not, Toyota actually knew what they were doing when they developed these parts:

Air intakes
Panel filters
Cat-back exhaust systems
Intercoolers

Some people will argue that intakes and intercoolers will reduce intake temperatures, which will allow the car to hold boost for longer, but in the real world, they do not make a difference. Toyota's standard equipment handles the job perfectly well.

Anti-roll bars have been proven to not really improve handling on the Yaris either.

11) The exhaust is extremely quiet on these cars. These cars rely on engine noise pumped in through the speakers of the car. If you want a loud car, you will need to change the exhaust. A straight through centre section and a rear silencer is recommended. If you opt for a straight through system, or a centre silencer and straight through rear, these cars suffer from drone when cruising on longer journeys.

12) The engine noise that is pumped in through the speakers can be turned on or off by using the Carista app, paired with an OBD2 adapter if you just want to hear the sound of your exhaust. On the Yaris, changing to a 3 inch aftermarket exhaust system creates a cool blow-off valve noise when you change gears, I expect the Corolla will be the same. It can still be heard over the pumped in engine noise though.

13) The service intervals for this engine are every 6000 miles/9656 km’s, or every 12 months, whichever comes up first.

14) If you install an aftermarket ECU (Motec etc…), you will lose all radar functionality, automatic braking, cruise control features etc…

15) If you want to protect the seats, the only place that currently sells GR tailored seat covers are Dream Automotive, but they are very good seat covers.


16) MOST IMPORTANT ONE. DO NOT MIS-SHIFT THE GEARS WHEN YOU HAVE INTELLIGENT REV MATCHING TURNED ON, PEOPLE HAVE F'CKED THEIR ENGINES ON TRACK BY DOING THIS. IF YOU'RE GOING 110MPH AND YOU ACCIDENTALLY PUT THE CAR FROM 6TH TO 2ND GEAR, THE CAR WILL NOT PROTECT ITSELF AND WILL ATTEMPT TO MATCH IT AT 11000 REVS!!! IN FACT, IF YOU REGULARLY MIS-SHIFT, KEEP REV MATCHING OFF!
 

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Thanks for the info! I'm hoping we see more GRY owners chiming in where possible. That said, I didn't think the EU was getting any GRCs, so I'm surprised to see a german flag flying here. Either way, guten tag und danke schon!

1) The paint is extremely soft on these cars and is very prone to stone chips and scratches. Full PPF is recommended. People in UK that opted for no PPF regret it now. PPF should be applied to any forged carbon roof anyway, or it will deteriorate over time.
Or wrap the car, which is my plan.

4) Every time you start this engine from cold, power will be severely limited for around 5 minutes until the engine oil has warmed up. You will get a message on the dashboard advising to avoid using heavy acceleration. Whilst it is in this warm-up phase, you are not beating anybody in a race. Once it disappears, you are good to go.
I was wondering if they'd do something like this. The Focus ST doesn't give you any kind of indicator on crank, but it does limit power until it reaches operating temp.

6) Lane assist and steering assist are turned on by default. They ruin the raw driving experience. You will have to turn these features off every time you start the car. Takes around 10 seconds. You can not turn off collision prevention though.
I'm hoping some clever tuner will find a way to change this.

8) The best cost per horsepower modification that you can do on this engine is either a remap or a tuning box. A tuning box will retain your warranty as it can be removed before dealership servicing and leaves no footprint on the ECU. A remap will void your warranty on any failure that the dealerships can hold it accountable for. An ECU remap will also be wiped if your dealership decide to update the ECU for a recall when your car is being serviced. The Yaris has already been recalled once for changes to the radar functionality, which is tied into the ECU.
There was a recent breakthrough on this front. A tuning company cracked the ECU and gained R/W access to it. I'm hoping that means we'll have tuners for the GRY (and maybe GRC) that will allow you to flash back to stock at the press of a button.

10) The following aftermarket modifications do not make any difference to the performance of this engine at any state of tune. This is confirmed by multiple, reputable independent tuners that have all pushed this car to over 400bhp. The only parties that claim power increases for these modifications are the parties that are selling the products and are set to make money from them. Believe it or not, Toyota actually knew what they were doing when they developed these parts:

Air intakes
Panel filters
Cat-back exhaust systems
Intercoolers
Most of these won't surprise anyone that already has a turbo'd car. The intercooler one does surprise me a little. Motive Video indicated that the stock one was fine for daily driving and most track use, but it wasn't good enough for a heavily modified car that was getting beat to hell at a drag strip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info! I'm hoping we see more GRY owners chiming in where possible. That said, I didn't think the EU was getting any GRCs, so I'm surprised to see a german flag flying here. Either way, guten tag und danke schon!


Or wrap the car, which is my plan.


I was wondering if they'd do something like this. The Focus ST doesn't give you any kind of indicator on crank, but it does limit power until it reaches operating temp.


I'm hoping some clever tuner will find a way to change this.


There was a recent breakthrough on this front. A tuning company cracked the ECU and gained R/W access to it. I'm hoping that means we'll have tuners for the GRY (and maybe GRC) that will allow you to flash back to stock at the press of a button.


Most of these won't surprise anyone that already has a turbo'd car. The intercooler one does surprise me a little. Motive Video indicated that the stock one was fine for daily driving and most track use, but it wasn't good enough for a heavily modified car that was getting beat to hell at a drag strip.
Thanks for the feedback.

I'm actually in UK. I registered my account at work. Our network goes through a breakout point in Munich, so our external IP is always a German one. Sorry, it won't let me change the flag.

With regards to the intercooler, I think that if you upgrade the turbo on this engine, you should definitely upgrade the intercooler, but if you're just tuning the ECU, changing exhaust components, the standard intercooler does just fine. Remember though, on the Corolla, you get that beautiful GR-Four logo displayed on the standard intercooler, so would you really want to change it unless you're going big power? It looks amazing.
 

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6) Lane assist and steering assist are turned on by default. They ruin the raw driving experience. You will have to turn these features off every time you start the car. Takes around 10 seconds. You can not turn off collision prevention though.
I have a few questions about this if you don't mind. When they're turned off, are they truly, fully off? I've driven some cars where turning things "off" simply means "less on." When they're off, does the car ever complain about it while driving? And if you forget to turn them off at startup, can you turn them off on the fly or do you have to stop and restart the car?
 

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3) The bedding in period for this engine is 621 miles/999 km’s, so if you are looking to protect your engine, you will need to avoid pushing the car hard until after 621 miles/999 km’s has been done.
Been wondering what this was, thanks for the information.

Begins furiously looking up 621 mile round trips to knock out the day after picking up the car.

This is all really good owners info to help plan out ownership in the future.
 

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What do you mean two tone on the wheels? I thought they were just black?

(This is just a general Toyota/Corolla question) Is there a way to change the trigger threshold on the TPMS? My friends Corolla hatchback he said the same thing about the sensors being very sensitive especially in the winter. My truck has the stock pressure at 65psi with an alarm trigger at like 55psi, but I run them at like 40/45 unless loaded. Fortunately there is a couple different programs to change the “ideal” pressure so the threshold is much lower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a few questions about this if you don't mind. When they're turned off, are they truly, fully off? I've driven some cars where turning things "off" simply means "less on." When they're off, does the car ever complain about it while driving? And if you forget to turn them off at startup, can you turn them off on the fly or do you have to stop and restart the car?
Once they're off, they're truly off. The car won't complain about anything from that point on.

You don't have to turn it off on startup, they can be turned off at any point, even when you're driving, just by holding down a button on the steering wheel.
 

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What do you mean two tone on the wheels? I thought they were just black?

(This is just a general Toyota/Corolla question) Is there a way to change the trigger threshold on the TPMS? My friends Corolla hatchback he said the same thing about the sensors being very sensitive especially in the winter. My truck has the stock pressure at 65psi with an alarm trigger at like 55psi, but I run them at like 40/45 unless loaded. Fortunately there is a couple different programs to change the “ideal” pressure so the threshold is much lower.
It’s pretty common on Corollas I’ve seen too
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It’s pretty common on Corollas I’ve seen too
The wheels on the Corolla look darker than the Yaris, and I've never seen the Corolla in person, but I'd be willing to bet money that they use more than one paint colour on the wheels. On the Yaris, they've sprayed the wheel one colour, and then went over it again with a 2nd colour to create a smokey affect, which is why there is no paint code for them. When you see it in person, in certain light conditions, it makes the spokes and rims look really unique as you can see both tones in contrast with each other depending on the spoke you're looking at. I'm guessing the Corolla is a much darker version of this effect that you'll only be able to appreciate standing next to it.

I've not found a way to change the tolerance on the tyre pressure sensor warnings.
What do you mean two tone on the wheels? I thought they were just black?

(This is just a general Toyota/Corolla question) Is there a way to change the trigger threshold on the TPMS? My friends Corolla hatchback he said the same thing about the sensors being very sensitive especially in the winter. My truck has the stock pressure at 65psi with an alarm trigger at like 55psi, but I run them at like 40/45 unless loaded. Fortunately there is a couple different programs to change the “ideal” pressure so the threshold is much lower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Added number 16 as missed it off the original post.

"16) MOST IMPORTANT ONE. DO NOT MIS-SHIFT THE GEARS WHEN YOU HAVE INTELLIGENT REV MATCHING TURNED ON, PEOPLE HAVE F'CKED THEIR ENGINES ON TRACK BY DOING THIS. IF YOU'RE GOING 110MPH AND YOU ACCIDENTALLY PUT THE CAR FROM 6TH TO 2ND GEAR, THE CAR WILL NOT PROTECT ITSELF AND WILL ATTEMPT TO MATCH IT AT 11000 REVS!!! IN FACT, IF YOU REGULARLY MIS-SHIFT, KEEP REV MATCHING OFF!"
 

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Added number 16 as missed it off the original post.

"16) MOST IMPORTANT ONE. DO NOT MIS-SHIFT THE GEARS WHEN YOU HAVE INTELLIGENT REV MATCHING TURNED ON, PEOPLE HAVE F'CKED THEIR ENGINES ON TRACK BY DOING THIS. IF YOU'RE GOING 100MPH AND YOU ACCIDENTALLY PUT THE CAR FROM 6TH TO 2ND GEAR, THE CAR WILL NOT PROTECT ITSELF AND WILL ATTEMPT TO MATCH IT AT 11000 REVS!!! IN FACT, IF YOU REGULARLY MIS-SHIFT, KEEP REV MATCHING OFF!"
LOL, on the one hand I'm thinking you mis shift, youre going to mess things up regardless, but I think I understand what you're getting at. The "intelligent" MT obeys your command and goes ahead and rev matches before you even get it into the mis-gear. If it were really intelligent it would go, hey you, I'm smarter than you and you shouldn't be doing this, no I'm not going to and i'm going to protect myself from your idiocy!
Anyway, thanks for the info, good stuff!
And I've kind of wondered about the breaking in period for modern cars, how much do you really need to do this anymore? What with piston and cylinder treatments. I think a lot now is manufacturers playing it safe, even that distance figure. I think it was easiest to just say 1km so thats what they put. For US market I'm sure they'll just say 1k miles, instead of 621.
 

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Added number 16 as missed it off the original post.

"16) MOST IMPORTANT ONE. DO NOT MIS-SHIFT THE GEARS WHEN YOU HAVE INTELLIGENT REV MATCHING TURNED ON, PEOPLE HAVE F'CKED THEIR ENGINES ON TRACK BY DOING THIS. IF YOU'RE GOING 110MPH AND YOU ACCIDENTALLY PUT THE CAR FROM 6TH TO 2ND GEAR, THE CAR WILL NOT PROTECT ITSELF AND WILL ATTEMPT TO MATCH IT AT 11000 REVS!!! IN FACT, IF YOU REGULARLY MIS-SHIFT, KEEP REV MATCHING OFF!"
I think you'll find that money shifting at that speed with or without iMT will have the same effect. The overrev is mechanical by overspinning the engine via the transmission, not done by the ECU attempting to blip the throttle.

If you notice that you've mis-shifted any car, immediately put the clutch in and pray that you haven't caused any serious damage. Best case scenario you'll just burn the clutch.

Great pointers OP, I think it's refreshing to get a glimpse of what the actual day to day experience will be like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think you'll find that money shifting at that speed with or without iMT will have the same effect. The overrev is mechanical by overspinning the engine via the transmission, not done by the ECU attempting to blip the throttle.

If you notice that you've mis-shifted any car, immediately put the clutch in and pray that you haven't caused any serious damage. Best case scenario you'll just burn the clutch.

Great pointers OP, I think it's refreshing to get a glimpse of what the actual day to day experience will be like.
So, the feedback I've had matches exactly what you said. Normal mis-shifting, get the clutch in straight away. With iMT turned on, the iMT is so much quicker at matching than a human is at pressing down the clutch, it's just far too late. The car drives as normal for an hour or so longer, and then you start to get severe issues.

In all honesty, it's not something I'm educated on, I just know what has happened to others.

On the cases I know of, the rocker arms can get blow in the engine, which is huge job and majorly expensive to fix.

Surprisingly though, not something I've tested!
 

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Love to hear about the intercooler being pretty capable unless you’re going for big numbers (400+), that’ll likely save me some money lol. No plans other than basic bolt ons to keep it a simple/fun daily but with some platforms I’ve noticed the intercooler still kinda limited there.
 
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