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Delta X Motorsport Pitch Mount

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#41 ·
Maxg said:
I know the one kit has solid bushing mounts for the shifter base itself. Any thoughts on that? Curious how much that might actually help or if it would transmit more vibrations than it's worth.
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I bought the kit without the solid bushings for the shifter plate. It was fine with the factory CE shift knob but I bought a taller shift knob and now I can feel a lot of flex in the shifter assembly with all the extra leverage and I'm pretty sure the solid bushings would have solved this problem. Just something to keep in mind.
 
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#43 ·
Anyone who did this upgrade care to share their experience with 60 vs 70 poly bushing hardness? Trying to make a decision... I don't mind some increased NVH, vibration would be more tolerable than increased noise, IMO.
 
#44 ·
lazerbeak said:
Anyone who did this upgrade care to share their experience with 60 vs 70 poly bushing hardness? Trying to make a decision... I don't mind some increased NVH, vibration would be more tolerable than increased noise, IMO.
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I can’t speak about the 60a but I installed the 70a since they were already inserted in the mount when I received it. When I first installed it the NVH was very significant. Jeff told me that there was a break in period of 500ish miles so I’m going to give it some time. When your driving it’s fine but when you start moving in 1st from and idle or so there is a lot of NVH. I’ve driver my car about 60-70 miles since I installed it and it gotten a little better. I’m going to give it a few hundred miles and see what happens. I can always go down to the 60a.
 
#45 ·
Audiowerksnyc said:
I can’t speak about the 60a but I installed the 70a since they were already inserted in the mount when I received it. When I first installed it the NVH was very significant. Jeff told me that there was a break in period of 500ish miles so I’m going to give it some time. When your driving it’s fine but when you start moving in 1st from and idle or so there is a lot of NVH. I’ve driver my car about 60-70 miles since I installed it and it gotten a little better. I’m going to give it a few hundred miles and see what happens. I can always go down to the 60a.
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i have the 60A with about 250 miles and its noticeable to me because I know what it was like before hand, but to my passengers it blends in with the exhaust NVH enough that it just feels like a sporty exhaust rumble at idle, but beyond idle its not noticeable at all. Not probably much help to you, but very livable, not irritating at all and still have more break in miles to put on it. I have the 70A bushing and will install that if the 60A softens up too much over time, but i doubt that will be the case.
 
Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited)
Although most have not had had the mounts in long enough for total break in I have received a decent amount of feedback from my initial orders to give some added info.

I have found so far that this chassis and the manufacturing process has equated to different amounts of NVH being noticed with the use of the same duro meter bushings across different cars. Some say, myself included, that 70A is not too bad and others have told me that it’s almost unbearable initially. (I’m still waiting for feedback on those that have decided to wait out the break in mileage with the 70A)

It will break in and the amount of NVH will lessen but I’m not sure if those chassis that don’t agree with the resonant frequencies of the 70A will get to a point they are comfortable daily usage. So it’s a bit of a lottery in that sense and time will tell.

One customer who’s chassis did not agree with the 70A to the point he said he didn’t even want to wait for the break in, but once he switch to 60A and completed the break in, now says he feels the NVH matches that of the OEM mount he had in before. I will see if I can get him to chime in so you can hear it from him that way you guys don’t think I’m being biased here.

I have not had one person so far complain about the 60A bushing exhibiting an amount of added NVH that makes it uncomfortable for daily use.

At this point, until more people complete break-ins and give me more feedback I will suggest that anyone who even has a slight concern of additional NVH being introduced to order a 60A bushing. It will still be superior in performance as opposed to the sloppy OEM mount. You will have more confidence shifting up and down, you will have better throttle response and will have a higher sense of connectivity. It does improve even greater as you move up in Duro but at a trade off of more NVH.

Another great option is to just add a 70A/80A bushing set to your order for an additional $20 that way you can swap them in for track days and swap back to the 60A for daily duties afterwards. I’m down to about 15 minutes to swap bushings with ramps, electric impacts and not removing the front most under panel.

Thanks to everyone who has given their initial thoughts! I urge everyone to give their honest opinion good or bad to not only inform those interested but to help me improve the product.
 
#47 ·
CHEEKY GR-E210 said:
Although most have not had had the mounts in long enough for total break in I have received a decent amount of feedback from my initial orders to give some added info.

I have found so far that this chassis and the manufacturing process has equated to different amounts of NVH being noticed with the use of the same duro meter bushings across different cars. Some say, myself included, that 70A is not too bad and others have told me that it’s almost unbearable initially. (I’m still waiting for feedback on those that have decided to wait out the break in mileage with the 70A)

It will break in and the amount of NVH will lessen but I’m not sure if those chassis that don’t agree with the resonant frequencies of the 70A will get to a point they are comfortable daily usage. So it’s a bit of a lottery in that sense and time will tell.

One customer who’s chassis did not agree with the 70A to the point he said he didn’t even want to wait for the break in, but once he switch to 60A and completed the break in, now says he feels the NVH matches that of the OEM mount he had in before. I will see if I can get him to chime in so you can hear it from him that way you guys don’t think I’m being biased here.

I have not had one person so far complain about the 60A bushing exhibiting an amount of added NVH that makes it uncomfortable for daily use.

At this point, until more people complete break-ins and give me more feedback I will suggest that anyone who even has a slight concern of additional NVH being introduced to order a 60A bushing. It will still be superior in performance as opposed to the sloppy OEM mount. You will have more confidence shifting up and down, you will have better throttle response and will have a higher sense of connectivity. It does improve even greater as you move up in Duro but at a trade off of more NVH.

Another great option is to just add a 70A/80A bushing set to your order for an additional $20 that way you can swap them in for track days and swap back to the 60A for daily duties afterwards. I’m down to about 15 minutes to swap bushings with ramps, electric impacts and not removing the front most under panel.

Thanks to everyone who has given their initial thoughts! I urge everyone to give their honest opinion good or bad to not only inform those interested but to help me improve the product.
Click to expand...
I’m going to ride out the 500 miles and let you know what happens.
 
#48 ·
CHEEKY GR-E210 said:
Although most have not had had the mounts in long enough for total break in I have received a decent amount of feedback from my initial orders to give some added info.

I have found so far that this chassis and the manufacturing process has equated to different amounts of NVH being noticed with the use of the same duro meter bushings across different cars. Some say, myself included, that 70A is not too bad and others have told me that it’s almost unbearable initially. (I’m still waiting for feedback on those that have decided to wait out the break in mileage with the 70A)

It will break in and the amount of NVH will lessen but I’m not sure if those chassis that don’t agree with the resonant frequencies of the 70A will get to a point they are comfortable daily usage. So it’s a bit of a lottery in that sense and time will tell.

One customer who’s chassis did not agree with the 70A to the point he said he didn’t even want to wait for the break in, but once he switch to 60A and completed the break in, now says he feels the NVH matches that of the OEM mount he had in before. I will see if I can get him to chime in so you can hear it from him that way you guys don’t think I’m being biased here.

I have not had one person so far complain about the 60A bushing exhibiting an amount of added NVH that makes it uncomfortable for daily use.

At this point, until more people complete break-ins and give me more feedback I will suggest that anyone who even has a slight concern of additional NVH being introduced to order a 60A bushing. It will still be superior in performance as opposed to the sloppy OEM mount. You will have more confidence shifting up and down, you will have better throttle response and will have a higher sense of connectivity. It does improve even greater as you move up in Duro but at a trade off of more NVH.

Another great option is to just add a 70A/80A bushing set to your order for an additional $20 that way you can swap them in for track days and swap back to the 60A for daily duties afterwards. I’m down to about 15 minutes to swap bushings with ramps, electric impacts and not removing the front most under panel.

Thanks to everyone who has given their initial thoughts! I urge everyone to give their honest opinion good or bad to not only inform those interested but to help me improve the product.
Click to expand...
Im planning on installing 70A once available!
 
#49 ·
Love the look of this (and the pedal spacer is awesome btw) but am a bit worried by 148 torques…. That would be some serious deflection on my bending bar torque gauge and i’m not so sure I could do that with the car on drive on ramps…. Is it easy to get that torque or do I need to get someone to fit on a hoist? Or do I just need to invest in a ratcheting click torque wrench?
 
#50 ·
Spr10 said:
Love the look of this (and the pedal spacer is awesome btw) but am a bit worried by 148 torques…. That would be some serious deflection on my bending bar torque gauge and i’m not so sure I could do that with the car on drive on ramps…. Is it easy to get that torque or do I need to get someone to fit on a hoist? Or do I just need to invest in a ratcheting click torque wrench?
Click to expand...
I can tell you first hand that getting 148 ft-lbs without a lift is not that easy. It’s not that easy with a lift lol.
 
#51 ·
Spr10 said:
Love the look of this (and the pedal spacer is awesome btw) but am a bit worried by 148 torques…. That would be some serious deflection on my bending bar torque gauge and i’m not so sure I could do that with the car on drive on ramps…. Is it easy to get that torque or do I need to get someone to fit on a hoist? Or do I just need to invest in a ratcheting click torque wrench?
Click to expand...
i have a large clicking torque wrench and it was challenging, took a bit of grunt, but my car was on jack stands, just the front in the air and i was able to do it without any sketchiness.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Spr10 said:
Love the look of this (and the pedal spacer is awesome btw) but am a bit worried by 148 torques…. That would be some serious deflection on my bending bar torque gauge and i’m not so sure I could do that with the car on drive on ramps…. Is it easy to get that torque or do I need to get someone to fit on a hoist? Or do I just need to invest in a ratcheting click torque wrench?
Click to expand...
I’m glad this was brought up. I have had contact from several people with issues and concerns on that bolt and its torque values.

The torque annotated on the directions is directly out of the Factory Service Manual so it is what Toyota calls for.

I myself didn’t have too much of an issue but I’m also using a Snap-On torque wrench called “Brutus” (actually model name) and it’s a beast. I have had some tell me that they would get to around 130ftlbs and start to notice twisting as if it was going to strip. I’m not sure it that the actually bolt or the socket but I did advise them to just lower it down to 125ft-lbs and send it.

Looking at a general torque value chart for that size bolt it does recommend 127 ft-lbs, so I’m certain that 125ft-lbs will be just fine. I would also suggest to always use a 6point socket when dealing with bolts with high torque values. 12pt sockets can and will break or strip themselves.
 
#53 ·
CHEEKY GR-E210 said:
I’m glad this was brought up. I have had contact from several people with issues and concerns on that bolt and its torque values.

The torque annotated on the directions is directly out of the Factory Service Manual so it is what Toyota calls for.

I myself didn’t have too much of an issue but I’m also using a Snap-On torque wrench called “Brutus” (actually model name) and it’s a beast. I have had some tell me that they would get to around 130ftlbs and start to notice twisting as if it was going to strip. I’m not sure it that the actually bolt or the socket but I did advise them to just lower it down to 125ft-lbs and send it.

Looking at a general torque value chart for that size bolt it does recommend 127 ft-lbs, so I’m certain that 125ft-lbs will be just fine. I would also suggest to always use a 6point socket when dealing with bolts with high torque values. 12pt sockets can and will break or strip themselves.
Click to expand...
i do have over 6 different torque wrenches, and 3 are for high torque, 150+ to i think over 300ftlbs and use 6 pt impact high load hardened sockets. the larger torque wrenches make these jobs much easier and less scary. Never noticed any twisting on the GR. after removing lots of subframes Im used to the higher torque scariness and not as easily phased. But those first subframe or large axle nuts were a pucker factor of 11 for sure.
 
#56 ·
Put mine on and did a test drive. Really liking the feel of the 80A bushing. Vibration at takeoff is noticeable but the cabin noise at cruising speeds is the same. The shift from 1-2 under full load is noticeably better. Its very predictable. Thanks a ton dude! Also, 148 ftlbs under the car wasn't that hard. I was just more annoyed that I couldn't get my 1/2 Milwaukee under the car.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
iamblamb said:
Put mine on and did a test drive. Really liking the feel of the 80A bushing. Vibration at takeoff is noticeable but the cabin noise at cruising speeds is the same. The shift from 1-2 under full load is noticeably better. Its very predictable. Thanks a ton dude! Also, 148 ftlbs under the car wasn't that hard. I was just more annoyed that I couldn't get my 1/2 Milwaukee under the car.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the update! Is your GRC your daily? I'm really interested to hear a long term 1K+ milage update on how well your 80A breaks in. I personally run the 70A for street duties and swap to the 80A for track usage. After receiving from some input from the non-gr e210 guys that have run 80A in their cars it could take as much at 1K to really get it broken in and NVH settle to its lowest point. Wondering if it will be the same for our chassis and my design.
 
#58 ·
CHEEKY GR-E210 said:
Thanks for the update! Is your GRC your daily? I'm really interested to hear a long term 1K+ milage update on how well your 80A breaks in. I personally run the 70A for street duties and swap to the 80A for track usage. After receiving from some input from the non-gr e210 guys that have run 80A in their cars it could take as much at 1K to really get it broken in and NVH settle to its lowest point. Wondering if it will be the same for our chassis and my design.
Click to expand...
I’ll be sure to let you know. It will probably take about two weeks to get that amount of mileage. May be a little less depending on my workload.
 
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